Sub Frame Riser solid bushing - ANGLE ADJUSTABLE!
 

What do you guys think about these? They are currently in development by Parts Shop MAX:

"The FC rx7 subframe needs to pivot on its bushings to change trailing arm camber. This is a major problem that's solved with our unique FC Subframe Riser Solid bushing design."

http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/e107_fil...9_dsc04302.jpg

So you can have "solid" subframe bushing and use a adjustable center link. Pretty neat.

Would love that, but i just put in the mmr subframe bushings in 3 months ago -_-

Yeah.. I think its betta

This is perfect for me since i have awr lateral rods and camber links.
I still need more camber adjustment but also wanted more solid bushings.

When is it comin out?

They're still testing out all the parts for the FC no ETA or prices

i picture a wear point. while solid the subframe does want to move around.

If you had a hiem joint adjustable camber link wouldn't it be solid? It would seem like you would loosen the sub frame mounts then torque it down once your camber is adjusted. Yeah?

yes but there is 2 other high torque points trying to twist the subframe also.

So you'd need a solid front diff mount too right? That should work ya? I think feed makes them, I saw a pic from rhdjapan er sumthin

No idea on how much or when they are coming out.. just saw this on facebook and figured I'd see what people on here thought.

To me they look neat, and in "theory" sound like they would function as described. I would like some real race car tech guy opinions though before I buy into the hype.

i would wait until they have some testing on the track first.

I'm no race car guy, but I'm not a huge fan of the design. Problem is you are putting a straight bolt through a crooked hole. So when you torque it down:
A) You'd need an oversized hole to let the bolt go straight through. I'd prefer old, OEM rubber bushings to air any day.
B) It will try to undo the adjustement allowed by the ball/cup design. Ever tighten a bolt on something that doesn't quite fit right? It just yanks the parts where the bolt wants it to go. Also, the extra moment load on the hardware that is now getting beat up even more by solid bushings.

If it were up to me, I'd make a mount simila to the delrin solid bushings with a hole drilled off the center axis. Essentially making a non-adjustable "Camber +2 degrees" mount. Requires a lot of test fitting and stuff, but like the individual camber links, there just isn't really a good way to make it adjustable.

that was my other concern, even the rubberized bushing that supports the base is going to want to straighten out the crooked mount, putting a side load on the frame stud.

honestly, you don't even need solid subframe bushings. from the factory the subframe was never an issue, it was all the rest of the complex pivot points.

Looks they're out now, $50 for the pair of SFRs as well as $50 for the pair of solid diff mounts that they say you need to use with them.

シャーシパーツ Chassis Parts - POWERED BY MAX

It also looks like they've made these trailing arm camber links for $100 a set, seems sweet.

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From what their site says, it sounds like they'll be making more parts soon. What do you guys think?

and why would you need the solid diff mounts with the risers? then when the solid front mount comes out i assume that will also be necessary...

I'm no race car guy, but I'm not a huge fan of the design. Problem is you are putting a straight bolt through a crooked hole. So when you torque it down:
A) You'd need an oversized hole to let the bolt go straight through. I'd prefer old, OEM rubber bushings to air any day.
B) It will try to undo the adjustement allowed by the ball/cup design. Ever tighten a bolt on something that doesn't quite fit right? It just yanks the parts where the bolt wants it to go. Also, the extra moment load on the hardware that is now getting beat up even more by solid bushings.

If it were up to me, I'd make a mount simila to the delrin solid bushings with a hole drilled off the center axis. Essentially making a non-adjustable "Camber +2 degrees" mount. Requires a lot of test fitting and stuff, but like the individual camber links, there just isn't really a good way to make it adjustable.

Seems like IF they designed it correctly they they could avoid the problems you noticed.

They need two pivot points. One above the subframe/bushings and one below so that the nut can tighten against the assembly without any weird stresses on the stud as you mention.

It would seem easier though to sell a replacement diff bushing that is a spherical bearing and have the proper cone washer/spacers above and below that.

Just picked up a set of these and a solid front diff mount. I already have the RB camber link and MMR individual adjusters so I'm debating whether or not to install the SFR's on this (my street car) or the more track oriented build I'm begining...

I had my alignment done today. The rear ended up with -2.0 Left and -1.7 Right camber

I ran across this thread because im in need of taking more camber out of the rear and also individually adjust them.
I have delrin subframe and diff mounts and now my AWR center camber adjuster wont take more than what i mention. (about -2.0) ITs nearly maxed out and the camber wasnt changing the last few turns he made it.
I would like to get to atleast -1.5 on both sides but all options suck! What to do....

PBM makes an entire rear end solution, and having talked with Dan out there, you should have no reason you cannot get to *0 camber in the rear,, slammed even.

The whole setup is around $500 if memory serves. JTP on here has tracked the setup and approves. Albeit used for drifting, but he liked it and I trust his word on suspension.

Anyways, are you running spherical lower control arm bushings? Did you loosen the subframes bolts, adjust the camber bar, then tighten subframes bolts back up?

You could also have somEone machine your rear center adjuster to make it even shorter

I did not loosen the sub frame bolts before adjusting. Did I do it wrong.? He said I could bring it back when I get the parts to finalize the rear adjustment. He said it would be free. So if I can loosen bolts and get close to -1.. I still need individual adjustment.

I did a little research and I might just go with the white line offset bushing. They claim it can adjust .75. And I'm only .3 out in the rear. I emailed them and hey reassured me they wouldn't slip out of adjustment. And its only 62$. Seems like the ones to try first cause I don't want those weak individual links awr nor Mazdatrix sells. I need this car to be unbreakable.

I've never seen those whiteline rear bushings, cool!

I would consider cracking the subframe bolts loose then adjusting the middle adjuster just so the middle adjuster isn't fighting the torqued bolts on the pivots

They took an extra 2 weeks because they are made per order. White line rear camber adjusters.

Attachment 532222

im very interested in your imput on those new rear whiteline camber adjusters