stripped screw hole help!
 

So some how all the screw holes where I would bolt my drivers side seat into has been stripped. None of the screws even screw into it. What would be the best thing to do so I can screw some screws into it?

are you the one that took them out, and tried to put them back in?

Try running a tap in each hole, and if that doesn't work, tap a size larger and replace the bolts.

No I bought the car like that and ill try that tomorrow rotaryrocket. Thanks for the advice.

Also do you know what size tap I should use to run through it the first time?

IIRC, they are m10 x 1.25.

Alright thanks clokker gonna go do that now.

just be careful, the nuts are tack welded to the frame in a blind area of the chassis. if they break loose or are reamed out too far then you are SOL. (talking removing the carpet and cutting the seat frame off to weld new ones on)

usually tapping them out to the factory size works fine, but you have to start the bolts by finger, someone probably tried to ratchet them in cross threaded. mount the seat loosely and do the rear bolts first by a few threads then apply pressure to the seat to start the front ones by hand. once they are all started in a few threads then you can tighten them.

^
This...oh yes, definitely this.
Especially with the rear outside bolt, who's install angle is not what it seems and can be cocked by the surrounding carpet.

The common rust problems in the floor don't help either; especially on verts that have had roof leaks.

If all else fails just go to your local bolt and fastener supply store . They have all kind of inserts and fasteners for this kind of problem . some of the stuff available now works super in problem areas .

I've probably come across 15 RX-7s with at LEAST one bad & stripped seat bolt. To the point where, that's a common item we get from junkyards, is the bolt itself lol

Lol yeh if worse comes to worse ill get it from the junkyard and have it welded on, but I have no metric size tap andhabent had any time to go to the store to get the right size. So I'm still waiting and hoping running a tap will solve everything.

it doesnt have to be metric,just find the closest size up and carefully tap it being sure to go cw and ccw and dont force the tap to cut the threads,cutting oil makes it even easier

Of course it has to be metric and of course it has to be the correct size, not "the closest size up".
The idea here is to repair the thread not just randomly bugger it up further.

If chasing it with the tap doesn't solve the issue, a Helicoil certainly will.
After the thread is fixed, consider putting studs in the two rear mount holes instead of bolts.
They are a lot easier to work with in the future than the bolts are.

I can't explain exactly HOW I did one car.but I will try..
I did not have any access to a welder but I cut the Cross piece just enough to lift a flap of steel up(dremel) and put in a Stud.It sits in where the bolt used to go all the way through.
Gotta bend the very end of the bracket a bit to put the Seat in.(where the hole is)
When you put the seat in the stud goes sticks out and you "hook" the seat bracket holes onto the stud(so that the stud is now in the bracket holes..Bang the bracket back down towards the Cross piece and put the nut on.
It was Crude but It worked.Since it was stock,I didn't care.

no sir mr clueless,were talking about bolts holding a seat together not a cylinder head,i used to assemble 427 cobra reps for a living,ive drilled and tapped many holes from scratch,IF the threads are still fairly intact then you can use a same size tap or maybe even a chaser,if their too far gone then you can drill and tap a fresh set of threads making sure to keep the thread pitch the same,i believe their fine threads? whats using an sae size going to hurt?gonna kill the resale value on the car?

What you recommend is just as involved as fixing it back to stock and when done, your method requires two different wrenches/sockets to remove the seat.

From a structural standpoint I agree, no advantage either way.