Steering wheel lock
The car has an aftermarket hub/quick release combo. After removing the key and turning the steering to lock it it faces straight. However when I drive it's crooked. Was it put on wrong or do I need to align the car?
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I am going to guess it was put on wrong.
It took me a few attempts to line up the Nardi wheel on my FB just right. The hub kept slipping when I tightened the nut. Tom |
a hub should not slip even with the nut loosened, that's just hazardous... the splines are there for a reason.
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Ok thanks I will realign it.
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Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
(Post 12150138)
a hub should not slip even with the nut loosened, that's just hazardous... the splines are there for a reason.
I am trying to block the whole scenario from my memory as that stock wheel just did not want to come off! lol Tom |
Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
(Post 12150138)
a hub should not slip even with the nut loosened, that's just hazardous... the splines are there for a reason.
What actually holds the wheel is the taper on the shaft and hub. A Top Tip... When fitting a new (non OEM) hub/wheel, for the first trial fit remove the turn signal transfer collar and then bolt the assembly down tight. With the column surround trim removed, you can measure the distance between the hub and the TS switch on the column and confirm that there's room for the collar. One of my Momo hubs must have had a slightly different taper or something but had I cranked the wheel tight, it would have crushed the collar and probably not fully seated. |
Originally Posted by clokker
(Post 12150152)
Yes they are, for alignment.
What actually holds the wheel is the taper on the shaft and hub. A Top Tip... When fitting a new (non OEM) hub/wheel, for the first trial fit remove the turn signal transfer collar and then bolt the assembly down tight. With the column surround trim removed, you can measure the distance between the hub and the TS switch on the column and confirm that there's room for the collar. One of my Momo hubs must have had a slightly different taper or something but had I cranked the wheel tight, it would have crushed the collar and probably not fully seated. |
Originally Posted by clokker
(Post 12150152)
Y One of my Momo hubs must have had a slightly different taper or something but had I cranked the wheel tight, it would have crushed the collar and probably not fully seated.
fun fact the diameter, splines and taper on the Mazda steering shaft is the same from sometime in the early 70's to now. it turns out that the spline machine is really expensive, and thus splines are a bit like threads, for a given shaft diameter, there is a fine and a coarse. |
mercedes is the same. they used the same splines for hundreds of models of cars from the early 70s on up to 2000-ish.
i listed a momo hub for mercedes 300D, i wound up with a few hundred applications on the listing. |
Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
(Post 12150975)
mercedes is the same. they used the same splines for hundreds of models of cars from the early 70s on up to 2000-ish.
i listed a momo hub for mercedes 300D, i wound up with a few hundred applications on the listing. |
you'd think someone would come up with a better way of doing it after half a century.
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
(Post 12151144)
you aren't going to change splines, if its going to cost you a few million $$
I approve of parts stability and hope that Mazda left theirs alone because it made sense, not because it was cheaper. |
I ordered the same brand hub for both my NA Miata and my S4 and I think they were the same. That being said I did loose my turn signals like rotary evolution said.
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