starting problems
 

:wallbash:
Its me again with another starting problem.

Here is the problem.

I got my RX7 started, idling, but not properly. I was playing with the air control and the fuel control bleeder screws. I had to leave the car afterwards. The next week the vehicle won't start. It cranks over, there is fuel pressure from the fuel pump.
I try starting it over and over. I thought i might of flooded the engine again. Now the car has been siting outside for all this time, and the temperature was around 5 degrees when this problem occured.
Now I haven't touch the vehicle for a month ago due to my new job and the cold weather. Im trying to find a place to store it over the winter and somewhere warm and indoor to work on. But that is hard to find, considering I live in a condo.

:wallbash:


Need some of your ideas and advice

Thanks

Why did you start moving the screws around? Which screws exactly?

The idle mixture control does not effect startup.

I'm not exactly sure what question you are asking...

I was playing around with the air bleeder screw.

Anyways I found that there is gasoline coming out of the the exhaust. It looks like my injectors are faulty. Tested the wires for the injectors and it seems that one of them has no ground. One of the other tech tells me that its either the ECU that is not sending ground or its the wiring.

How can you test the ECU if there is a signal?

You Majorly Flooded the engine(gas out the exhaust)..and it Can occur over time..as in Storage.Or with What you Screwed with!(heh..j/k)
Try a Good deflooding procedure
don't just start replacing Parts.That is what got you in trouble in the first place.Screwing with things that you have no Knowledge of..Take the time to read up a bit in the Sec Gen archives,and find out what Some people have been through..It May help you too.

EGI deflooder procedure would work right?

thanks ministry.

Can the gas be too old too??
The the gas was filled back in Mid October. Just wondering if I have to drain the tank again?

After only 1.5 months, the fuel should be fine.

You can pull the intake off and pull up the fuel rail. Then with the fuel pump plug off, spin the engine with the starter and the injectors should click and you should be able to see the pintle on the injectors move in/out.

Or buy a LED from radio shack and put one of the LED's wires (positive wire) to a known power source and the other wire (negative wire) in the back of the ECU plug where the fuel injector wires are (primary wire only). Then Try to start the engine, The LED should flash each time the ECU pulses a gnd to the injector. No intake removal required for this.

It'd be pin 3C and or 3E for the primary injectors. Series four car. You look at the pinout from the WIRE side of the plug.

Pin 3I or 3J is a source of batt power. Plug has to remain attached to the ECU for this to work......just in case.

Also make sure the plug is on the water thermo sensor and that the pins inside the harness plug are NOT pushed back not making contact with the pins in the sensor. If this plug is not making contact with the sensor, then the car will be a bear to start in Cold weather or a cold engine.

Here's an example of what I wrote about above.

One LED.

Red wire to the bottom left.

Yellow wire to the top row, either the second wire on that row from the right or the third wire from the right. Both are the primary injector wires.

Start the car and if the engine is idling, you can detect the LED flashing. If you rev too high the light will just be on and you can't see a light that goes on/off in mili seconds. The light will just be on steady.

OR kill the fuel so the car won't start, and go to START and crank the engine over. The light will flash on/off and be easily seen doing that. Do not pull any EGI fuses to kill the fuel. Pull the fuel pump plug if you go that way.

A LED cost maybe a buck fifty.

Correct me if I wrong in this diagnose.

Well i try putting a test light on the wire that connect to the secondary injector wires. One is suppose to be ground but i am not getting a ground signal. Therefore the injectors are constantly spraying fuel. Now I don't know if the secondary injectors are suppose to continiously spray fuel. There should be a ground signal that pulsates to control the flow, am i right?
Thats on that tip Hailers and everyone. i hope its not the ECU. Because I have two and if both of them are screw im screwed.

Secondary injectors do not pulse unless the rpm's are over 3800 rpm and there is a load on the engine. Why are you interested in the secondary injectors???? Got me.

It's the primary injectors your interested in working or not.

The primary wires are pins 3C and 3E. You look into the wire side of the elect plug. You count from Right to Left in a up down method. I attached a picture earlier of the plug being seen from the WIRE side.

You take the Red wire of the LED and put it up the backside of the far left wire in the plug. Bottom row. You put the yellow or whatever color of the other wire is, in the pin 3C or 3E. Both are primary injector wires.

The injectors will go on/off rapidly when you start and idle the car OR if the car won't start, they will go on/off and it'll be easy to see them go on/off.

The LED lights up because you have one wire on a power source and when the injector driver pulses a momentary ground signal to the injector, it also puts a gnd on your LED. Light come on.

IF no light comes on when cranking the engine, the driver isn't working OR the wire is not up the backside of the wire on the ECU good enough. On or the other. OR you have the two wires on the LED switched in the wrong place.

To make sure the LED is connected up right, do this. Go to the battery. Put one wire on the positive post and the other on the neg. Light will come on if the wires are right. IF the light does not come on, then swap wires. Once the light comes on, then you know which of the wires on the LED is the positive wire. It'll be the one that was on the batt positive post when the light came on. THAT wire is the one that needs to go to the far left of the ECU plug on the bottom row. The other goes to the injector wire.