SS oil cooler lines (and fittings)
 

So, I searched and read quite a few threads about all this. My first question was if CS or RB was better, and I kinda came to the conclusion that CS was at least more common, and that both were good options. But as I was reading I read about AN fittings, which I didn't see any on CS, but I found 1 on Mazdatrix website but it was only the -10 to 18mm one, I didn't see a -10 to 16mm one. I don't even know if I would really need a 16mm one, but the RB website said you should buy adapters for both those sizes (but they weren't AN adapters).

I've read it's fairly difficult to actually get SS oil cooler lines on because they're so stuff, but it looks to me like the AN fittings would help with that, but I don't know if the AN fittings would work with CS, or if that's kinda something you go with if you're making your own lines?

But the Mazdatrix oil cooler lines also look pretty good and they come with the AN fittings. And if I bought the CS lines, and had to get 2 (or 4?) AN fittings, then it would ultimately be about the same price.

I forgot to mention it's for an '88 Turbo, the oil cooler is stock, but the radiator isn't. I'm planning on shooting for somewhere between 300-400whp if that makes any difference. But I was wondering which oil cooler lines would be best? The OEM ones broke when we pulled the motor (no surprise there ><) so I have to replace them regardless.

Sorry for all the questions, but I couldn't find all of my answers consolidated. I kinda found bits and pieces here and there but I was struggling trying to put it all together. Thanks for the help!

I get oil cooler lines done at any local hydraulic shop, its fastest, cheapest and always made to my exact needs...

Well.. I would do that my car is rather immobile and will be until I get oil cooler lines haha. They broke when I pulled the motor (like literally the connector wouldn't twist so the hose ended up twisting in it's place), and I am trying extremely hard to avoid having to put the car back on our car trailer (though we might have to move before I can finish this engine rebuild so it could be inevitable). The trailer is too tall, and the car is too low lol, almost ripped the lip off last time.

I have steel braided with AN fittings and a set of factory lined with banjo fittings, also have a turbo vw with just plain hyd. hoses. the stainless look pretty but do nothing and AN fittings are expensive, in the future; will go to my friendly hydraulic shop with measurements and old hoses- they can rebuild the stock or make new completely flexible ones. what you need is quality hose that will stand the pressure, oil and heat. And then secure them to prevent damage, btw the cooler and rear block are 16mm and the front block is 14mm

I've never had any issue putting on or taking off the oil cooler lines. I have oem and my girlfriend has an unknown brand of stainless steel oem style replacements.

i have the mazdatrix one with the an fit ill be putting them on the car Monday so ill tell you how it goes. my car is n/a 88 but it should be the same.

^^^^Correction..... the rear block is 18mm and front Cover is 16mm fc(86-92^^^^^

NOTE: OIL COOLER (86-92) 18mm
OIl COOLER (79-85) 16mm

the RB and mazdatrix lines use swivel fittings on the ends, the o-rings fail prematurely. they don't even last a fraction of as long as the OEM lines do and OEMs are rather poor quality on the FC. the fitting ends are also extremely cheap for name brand parts, i have broken a few when tightening them down to the cooler.

i prefer the crimped steel fittings like you find on the corksport lines, although the corksport lines fit rather poorly they work and last longer. a hydraulic shop can make similar lines but doubt they will fit much better without a swivel lock in the center of the lines.

I have corksport lines on my FC and I've had no problems. The only prolem I had was there was a piece on the oil cooler I had to trim. It was just a little aluminum rod welded to the oil cooler. Once that was trimmed they went on easy.