SPECIFIC emissions test question, NEED HELP! PLEASE!
 

so i saw icemarks's FAQ about cheating the e-check....

"J-rats Recipe for cheating emissions if its ABSOLUTELY necessary:

1. Turn variable resistor to full lean, or as lean as you can get and still run.
2. Trick ACV into pumping air to the cat all the time by removing the FORWARD UPPER vac hose, and capping it.
3. Run 87 octane
4. Run your tank down till your almost empty.
5. 2-3 bottles of alcohol in the tank. Drive VERY GINGERLY to the emissions station.
6. Once you pass go, DIRECTLY to a gas station and fill up with regular unleaded

.......now i just have 2 simple questions..

1. where is the FORWARD UPPER vac hose, so that i CAN remove it and cap it??? how do i know which is the FORWARD UPPER vac hose....i've looked alll through the haynes manual and all through the forum and no answer...so somebody PLEASE help me! thanks!!!

2. may be dumb question, but again could not find anywhere in haynes or in forum but where is the variable resister to turn to make more lean???? if u know anything about this PLEASE lemme know! thanks!!!!!!!

I was actually wondering the same thing, emmissions testing is comming up pretty soon for me.

Directly above the ACV, there are two nipples with vacuum hoses attached. He is talking about those two vacuum hose. That would be for al non turbo. Turbo ACV are different. See the FSM.

On a turbo you'd want to make sure there is no vac line applying PRESSURE to the very bottom nipple. Then you could also remove the four screws from the Switching diaphram on the ACV and remove the switching poppet valve. Once removed reinstall the cover with four screws. When you do that then all the air, welll most all, will go continuously to the EXAUST PORTS where most of it goes anyway, most of the time.

so u wanna just detach both of them and tape up the ends? is that right?

pictures?

Pictures are free and available in the online FSM, OR you could go look under your hood.

What I would do, is E-Mail or Private Message him to death til he answers you. Send him at least a dozen PM per day for several weeks. He wants you to do that, so have at it.

Personally I just use the stock equipment with a known good catalytic converter and have no problems. Stock equipment has to work though to pass. EGR does not have to work so ignore that piece of equipment.

On the other forum, FC3S whatever forum, I recently posted about five pictures of a TURBO ACV and how to make it deliver airpump air to the EXAUST PORTS all the time. That forum seems to be down the last couple of days, at least for me.

e-mail who? alright....ha i just looked under the hood and had my haynes manual by my side looking for the acv, and can't find it....in pic on pg 167 illustration 2.47 is that the acv that the guy has hose detached from with finger over the hose??? cuz thats what i was looking for under hood.....but in pic almost looks like its commin out of the alternator or somethin....

On a non turbo car, the ACV is on the right side of the engine, more or less in the middle.

Find the AirPump. The pump has a one inch hose going to the ACV. That's another way to find it.

At the bottom of the ACV there is a large approx one inch hose coming out the bottom of it. That hose leads to the right front fender area. That's another way to find the ACV.

On a non turbo car the ACV is located just above the auxillary ports. That's another way to find it.

The ACV is held on with three 10mm wrench size nuts. That's another way to find it.

Just above the ACV, but NOT located ON the ACV, there are two metal nipples with vacuum lines on the nipples. Those are JRATs nipples/hoses.

JRAT is the one that needs to be PM'd endlessley day and night. Aquire his phone number and call him. He will be there at 3am. Call til you drop.

aight cool i'll go and check it out....so who's this JRAT? ha should i know???

I FOUND IT! thanks hailers for all your help! i found the 2 nipples directly above the acv....so i unplug BOTH of those? or do i unplug the one that comes straight out toward the fender area?

"2. may be dumb question, but again could not find anywhere in haynes or in forum but where is the variable resister to turn to make more lean???? if u know anything about this PLEASE lemme know! thanks!!!!!!!" can somebody still assist me with THIS part???

Hailers, nice attitude! Finally becoming the prick I had always hoped for. Welcome to the RX7 jungle boys! Search first, then post. I still have to use vasoline when I start a thread. And the ACV, TPS, BAC, AFM, OMP, VDI, UIM, CAS, EGR, are things you need to learn a lot about. The COP, DUI, and PIIDB will come in time!

PEACE THE DOG

naw i dont need to learn anything more bout the DUI...once is enough haha

It would be one of the two side by side. NEVER the one sticking straight out toward the fender.

Like I said, I don't do this method, BUT I see what they are doing. So do this. Get the engine fully hot. Pull the LARGE hose off the bottom of the ACV. At idle there usually is a slight leakage of air out that port on the ACV.

Now while feeling that large port with one hand, pull one of the two small vacuum hose off. When you pull one of them off, there will be a large discharge of air out the bottom port on the ACV. Now which of the two I do not know. Just try one then the other to determine which effects the discharge of air out the bottom port on the ACV.

Once you find which of the two effects the air at the bottom of the ACV............THAT ONE is not the one you want to plug up. Its the other small lne that you want to plug. Just stick some plug up the lne, maybe even some silicone to block it up. Then reinstall the line back on the nipple so it looks original.

IF earlier on when you pull the LARGE HOSE off the bottom of the ACV at IDLE, and you feel a very large volume of air being discharged all the time, then there is another problem in the works. Usually, no normally, little air comes out that port at idle. IF you rev the engine up above 4000 rpm a LARGE amount of air should come out. You might check that out before doing anything else.

What I just wrote only applies to NON TURBO CARS. Turbo ACV are different. They also use PRESSURE to activate a diaphram unlike the non turbo.

The Variable REsistor ..................it's near the boost/pressure sensor on the right fender area. It is somewhat OVAL in shape with a TOWER in the middle. There is a screw inside that tower that MAY be covered with wax. Scrape the wax away and you'll see a screw. Clockwise is rich, anti-clockwise is lean. There should be a noticable change in engine tone when the screw is turned fully one way then the other. There is a STOP at each end of the turn. Do not force the scew past the STOP.

The Variable Resistor also has an electrical plug on the bottom.

so i should pull the LARGE hose off of acv while engine is at idle? ha thats safe??

pocket, owning an RX is not safe, just do what the man is saying. Knows his cars, and jets, etc. Only one moving part in the engine to worry about while its running, know what that is? Good luck pocket, the answer I was about to give, Hailers has already thoroughly explained.

PEACE THE MUTT

the belts n pulleyes? ha thats what to watch out for i mean common sense!!! haha....and i know rx's aint safe thats why i love 'em!!!!

It's just cold air coming from the air pump, not engine exhaust.

I posted some jpg's at this thread: http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=49421

It's TURBOII oriented only. The jpgs can be found at the bottom of several replys I made to that thread.

i passed the emisions test!!!! thanks hailers for all the help......now i can FINALLY get plates on my car after almost 2 years of owning it...haha......peace!