soon to be fc3s owner...suggestions?
I was recently forced to sell my 240sx...im 18 and I work at mcdonalds ya :rlaugh: :rlaugh: :rlaugh: it up. I love cars, especially performance driven cars. My 240 was amazing, but ive always had something for rx7s. The sound of the rotary engine, the styling (on both fc and fd), everything about the car. long story short, ive made up my mind and am getting an fc (perferably s5). It took me a while to decide (choices where mkiii supra, another 240 or an fc3s). I just started saving and have around 1k. I will probably buy it off of craigslist. Ive seen postings as cheap as 1500 for a running fc. My first question is how much should I expect to pay for a decent running fc (both turbo and n/a). My second question, people (none have an rx7) claim that it isnt reliable, I refuse to believe that. If I properly maintain is it a reliable car? Im looking for a balance between performance and reliability, should I start out with a tii or a n/a? I talked to an fc owner at an autocross meet and he told me that he suggests going n/a and turboing it later? If I already know I want the tii, should I just save up for it, or is settling for a n/a until I get the money to boost it practical? I look forward to driving my fc...any suggestions or help until I get the money to buy it would be appreciated.
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If its your first rotary, then you should probably get an NA to get more familiar with the engine and how everything on the cars work. Once you feel comfortable with how much you know, you can get a TII or do a swap.
The cars can be very reliable with proper maintenance. Anyone who says otherwise doesn't know what they are talking about. Ive daily driven mine for almost 2 years. Keep it in good shape, regular maintenance, plus I drift it and drive it really hard and its still in great shape with 120(front)/121(rear) compression at 100k miles. S5's have more wiring problems compared to S4's. Mazda skimped on the money when making them. Plastic sway bar end links, shitty soldering and wiring. The only reason S5's have more power is because of a few ecu tweaks and the AFM. S4's are lighter, and the GXL, GTU and TII came with clutch type LSD's, where as only the TII and GTUs S5's came with viscous type LSD's. It's all up to you with what series you want to buy, Id get whatever comes along first, depending on condition and price. |
I've got my 2nd 7 now and I gotta say that Not having to deal with some of the issues turbos bring up on my first RX7 was kind of a blessing. I would highly recommend getting used to your first rotary in the NA platform as well. It makes things alot easier to get used to like mentioned before. One big thing I can say though is don't skimp out on the compression test and other tell tale signs of failure, smokey, ya know the basic stuff you would look for anyway. But a little maintenance
goes a long way in these cars, most of the time it is worth the extra cash to find a well taken care of 7 |
The cars can be very reliable with proper maintenance. Anyone who says otherwise doesn't know what they are talking about. Ive daily driven mine for almost 2 years. Keep it in good shape, regular maintenance, plus I drift it and drive it really hard and its still in great shape with 120(front)/121(rear) compression at 100k miles. the most important thing to look for is compression like these guys said, any smoke coming out the tail pipes is bad, and rotary engines aren't like piston motors were, you can just take the heads off the block to get to something internally wrong, the entire motor has to be taken out and torn down and rebuilt. possibly having to replace housings. FC is definately not for someone on a tight budget, it's an old car that needs alot of TLC but this is just my opinion |
I am mechanically inclined and planning to learn the rotary engine inside and out. I get about 350-500 a paycheck and curently still live with my parents (moving out to go to college this september). If I buy this car around mid july, early august, do you think I would have enough resources to get my fc to good running condition. Im going to listen to you and try and get an N/A s4 fc...swap the tail lights (main reason I like the s5 more) and port it as soon as I get the money. Thanks for the help, is (was) anyone out there in a similar situation? How did it work out?
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Gas mileage is killer on rotaries if you plan on making it a DD. I think the mian problem with the turbo models is that they come with tiny wastegates that cant handle anything more than stock boost and stock parts
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Originally Posted by 0verb00st
(Post 7072363)
My first question is how much should I expect to pay for a decent running fc (both turbo and n/a).
Originally Posted by 0verb00st
(Post 7072363)
If I properly maintain is it a reliable car?
Originally Posted by 0verb00st
(Post 7072363)
I talked to an fc owner at an autocross meet and he told me that he suggests going n/a and turboing it later?
Originally Posted by 0verb00st
(Post 7072363)
I work at mcdonalds ya :rlaugh: :rlaugh: :rlaugh: it up.
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For the sake of the thread and since the OP will be DDing the car, do N/A's get a lot better MPG than the TII's?
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Originally Posted by Ishibubu
(Post 7073353)
For the sake of the thread and since the OP will be DDing the car, do N/A's get a lot better MPG than the TII's?
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porting it is the last thing you wanna do, rebuild the suspension and brakes first. thats gonna cost probably as much as you pay for the car. whats the point of being able to go fast if you can't stop or make the corner?
the motor has to be completely torn down to port, and you might as well give it a complete overhaul while your at it thats gonna cost you 1500-2k. how much money do you have right now? lets just say you have 500 bux right now and you'll make another 1500 in the next 6 weeks ( the beginning of august) that'll give you 2k to buy a beat FC your gonna need atleast another 500 just for the basic maintenance, and depending on the condition of the car it could be more or less. how much money will you have while at college? will you be able to fix things if they break? or have a place to work on it? i'm not telling you to not buy an rx7 just beware what your getting into before you buy it, |
well young skywalker, Im 19 and i got my first turbo2 s4 when i was 17 almost 18, i payed every penny i had for it (3600$) and it had TONs of shit done and was raped to death, day i got it it overheated and wouldnt start back up. i didnt check it out that well when i bought it and i spent over 3k to get it smogged and running good. so almost 7k total. so just warning, be very careful when purchasing the car...., i now own a stock 89 turbo2 which was never modded. it just depends on the cars history. if it was beat up then ur gonna spend a handful, if it was taken care of by a true car enthusiest then you will most likely be able to afford it(even with the shittttty mpg) thing is fc3s rx7's are.....for the most part all beat to fuck. to many kids buyin them that dont care about maintain only play. :/
just my 2 cents!! good luck man, if u do get one....and take care of it....ull love it. ive owned mr2's and other lil imports but nothing has compared to the turbo2 |
Originally Posted by Evil Aviator
(Post 7073378)
Yes, if you consider a 1 MPG difference in EPA ratings a lot better.
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Originally Posted by MHopkins
(Post 7073429)
Wouldn't a TII use more fuel under hard accerlation than an NA? Forced induction means more air so more fuel?
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/specifications-what-did-2nd-generation-rx-7-come-w-options-standard-features-642372/ |
Originally Posted by Evil Aviator
(Post 7073439)
Forced induction only means more air and more fuel if you drive it in boost. If you keep it out of boost, it's pretty much the same as an NA. If you have a lead foot, the Turbo II will get lousy gas mileage, but somebody who is concerned about gas mileage shouldn't drive in that manner anyhow. You can see the EPA estimated mileage ratings in the factory sales brochures posted in the 2Gen specifications sticky:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=642372 |
Give me 6000 double cheeseburgers and I might sell you mine
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don't boost the n/a motor, since the n/a got the 6ports going "find out more with a search" anyways, t2 are an okay daily beat, though be ready to pay a hefty amount for gas, pumping 91 i pay about 60 per fill
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Originally Posted by MHopkins
(Post 7073450)
It would be pretty silly though to buy a TII and not boost it regularly.
Originally Posted by j n
(Post 7073580)
be ready to pay a hefty amount for gas, pumping 91 i pay about 60 per fill
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im not concerned about gas milage right now, that might change when I actually get the car and drive it. What are some of the first things that I should do when I get the car? Im planning on getting an oil change, checking all of the filters, new spark plugs, spark plug wires and battery right away. Is there anything else that I should do?
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Originally Posted by 0verb00st
(Post 7074374)
im not concerned about gas milage right now, that might change when I actually get the car and drive it. What are some of the first things that I should do when I get the car? Im planning on getting an oil change, checking all of the filters, new spark plugs, spark plug wires and battery right away. Is there anything else that I should do?
dont listen to these guys(about gas mileage). i get over 20 mpg in my streetported T2. and i boost usually 2nd gear maybe a little in third when i start from a stop. i also have NO INCOME right now. i finished my tech school and am interning and i dont make anymore. my loan pays for gas and food and my apartment. i only have my mommy give me money for oil changes which are >$20 at EZ lube. and all ive had to change is my started. so it just depends, some are taken care of, come arent. its all in the pre-sale. |
Originally Posted by jonesfromindia
(Post 7074442)
dont listen to these guys(about gas mileage).
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Yes, I know it will consume more gas then an average car but I expect at least some performance increase over other cars. What I want to here is how proportionate is the drop in fuel efficiency and increase in performance (out of both models)
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are you not paying any attention to what i said above??? the car will need about $500 right of the bat for :
plugs wires vacuum hoses fuel hoses coolant hoses Flush and pressure check Coolant system Fuel filter Oil Filter Engine Oil Tranny OIl rear diff OIL brake pads Brake FLuid CLutch Fluid OEM THERMOSTAT rebuild OMP and lines after those are done you'll want to start with the suspension Balljoints Tie rods Struts Bushings OH and when you go looking for a car make sure it's 5lug not 4lug, 5lug have much larger calipers and wheel selection |
Originally Posted by Evil Aviator
(Post 7075223)
Yeah, don't listen to those Mazda engineers or those guys over at the EPA. They obviously don't have a clue. Internet forum posters have far superior methods for measuring gas mileage and establishing a baseline for a vehicle.
and since my car is streetported the EPA's dont fucking matter anyways. and seeing as how my car is pretty much stock except the port i still get around stock gas mileage. and i was talking about the POSTERS HERE! i did not mention EPA or mazda. so dont ASSUME shit.
Originally Posted by VacavilleFC
(Post 7075611)
are you not paying any attention to what i said above??? the car will need about $500 right of the bat for :
Originally Posted by 0verb00st
(Post 7075533)
Yes, I know it will consume more gas then an average car but I expect at least some performance increase over other cars. What I want to here is how proportionate is the drop in fuel efficiency and increase in performance (out of both models)
once again, im streetported at stock PSI, intake, 3inch turbo back, ported wastegate and i get above 20mpg with "ok" driving. does that help? |
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/ca...23159.html...I have money but dont know the extent of the problem. Is this a good buy, and if not, how much should I try to get it for?
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