Somebody Frigging help me
 

Ok heres the deal. I imported this T 2 yay great for me. Now when it arrived 3 weeks ago it ran great but to make sure i checked everything.......exept compresion. So now I am doing some little things, but this weekend I was putting in a new deck. But before we got started I took my friend for a ride, the car ran great, boosted awsome so no problem. So fine, i wired everything up and noticed that some of the fuses were missing, So i replaced all of those and finshed tucking back most of the wires since it was getting dark and i would wait for light. Well now when i went to go for a little drive the car wouldn't start unless I had it floored. It shook horribley when it was under 4K revs and it sounds like a bloody lawn mower. It also billows out white smoke and pops when its pushed passed half throttle. It has no power and it wont iddle, if it drops under a thousand RPM you have to floor it to stop it from dieing, I am so new to the rotary and I have no idea were to start. Could I have screwed something up when i was wireing things together. I checked my under hood fusies and they are all fine. I dont friggin get it. Help me if you can please.

Before doing anything else, do a compression test and post your results.

So, your car was running fine. Then you saw missing fuses and put some fuses in the empty spots?

which fuses were missing that you replaced? Not every spot should have a fuse in it.

As for the billowing of white smoke, that sounds like its burning coolant. Smell the exhaust and see if it smells like antifreeze.

Yup. Wired in all the wires from the stock radio and cd player and wired it into my sony harness. Then seen that some of the fuses were missing that should have been their. So i changed them. I dont know if I could have shorted something out. Mabey the computer. I dont know. I think I should stick to the 69 chevs. Oh and at the risk of sounding as new to the rex as i am. I need a different rotary compresion tester dont I?

the exaust smells like gas not coolant, and I know that not everyone should have one. They dont. But for the sake of asking, what would it do if their was one were their wasn't supposed to be one?

you can use a regular compression tester on a rotary, you just have to remove the check valve from the tester so it reads the compression from all 3 sides of the rotor. Basically, the needle will bounce instead of being held in place by the check valve like on a piston engine. Watch where the needle bounces to on the gauge. If you leave the check valve in the gauge, then you will only see the highest reading for that rotor. One of the other faces may have low pressure and you won't see it.

thanks, I will do that in the morning. Post it later

I think his main problem will be in wiring, its the only thing that really changed between the time he shut it off and the next start up, go through it again. I higly doubt that your engine poped while sitting there.

Ya, my compression test broke just now i dropped it. But Thats what I was thinking. I meen I dont under stand how it could just go when I had it parked. But then again I dont really know, I am going to have to find a compresion tester somewhere after work tomorow and do that. But if that doesn't work I am going to have to go over everything that I did this weekend and try to find an exposed wire, or something. And no one asnwered my other question. It wont make a difference if their is a fuse in a spot were it shouldn't be right?

What year is it? If you have to floor it to start and its an s5 it could be a flooding problem. Since on an s5 when you floor it when starting it cuts the fuel. I could be wrong thou, I'm also fairly new to this.

Its an 89. And I dont think its flooding since after I start it I can run it for a bit and it still sucks ass. It sat over night and did the same thing, I tried the un flooding process but that did nothing.

All I can think of is that he shorted out one of the sensors on the engine, I would think maybe the AFM.

If compression is cool, you should check the haynes/fsm and do the sensor checks for all of them, just to rule out an 'electronic' part causing the problem.

I think first thing you should do though, is post exactly what fuses you put back in, and what wires you were jackin around with, pictures would be great.

Pull the plugs, run crank the engine.. listen for constant blows coming out of the spark plug wholes.. Should all sound the same, and be constant.

Check codes.

fuel pressure?
sounds kinda like when my fuel pump died on my AE86

I got a new commpresion tester comeing, but the fuel pump, that makes scence. I wonder if we could have shorted out the fuel pump, or if we some how fucked with the ground becasue on this car WHO THE HELL KNOWS what this guy did its a friggin mess, wires everywere. I will check the wireing to that, that makes lots of scence. Thanks guys.

Well the tests are in. All the sensors are fine, all the vacume lines fine. Found the problem. Rear rotar has 105 on the compression test. Front 0 haha. Think that could be it? Haha. So it looks like I have to rip the engine apart anyway. It also sounds like something is ratteling around in their. So do you think that mabey the "crank" shaft broke some how? I dont know. Damn. looks like another vehical failure for me before i even get to insure it. ahhh God hates me

Thats outstanding that your motor blew, the E-Shaft isnt the problem, your seals are gone.

Yep...exactly how my engine went before I got a rebuilt one. Never had a real sign that it was dying. Ran fine throughout the day..then went to leave one night and bam! Ran like crap...just how you explained. My rear rotor apex seals were gone. That 'rattling' is prolly the apex seal getting flopped around inside the engine.

Rebuild time!

Hope you didnt spend to much on that engine. If you rebuild yourself..you will be looking at about $500 or so at the least...and thats just for all the seals, rings and gaskets. If your housing is all screwed from the seal floppin all around in there, you will have to replace that too.

Prepare for the worst and hope for the best.

Good luck.

How much abouse can the housing take, I need to get it home now, and i have a car trailer but its parked like 2 min away. Would it be ok to drive it to the trailer or should i get a truck to come bring it to the trailer. The trailer cant be brought into were the car is. ITs to small a place. I dont want to replace something if i dont have too. Just asking some opinions. Thanks guys

If your apex seal IS rattling around in there you probably allready scared the rotor housing. BUT the is a chance and I would not gamble. A new rotor housing is $500 bux. I can get a good used one for under $100.

Let me know.