Solenoide Question
 

I've been searching for an hour for this post. A guy says he knows how to get the vacuum solenoid system simplified down to 4 lines on a TII. Where is this post. The one in the archive is not it. Can anyone help me. Oh it also has a large pic of the haynes Vacuum Diagram, however I do not need it.....I just remember that in the thread.

FPR, oil nozzle bleed, fuel injector bleed and MAP sensor. :)

Thats the setup I got, I trashed everything else. You'll need to rerun the fuel lines if u trash the vac rac though.

Same setup here. :)

All of those can be run off stock ECU right??? Anyone have the re-routing diagram of the fuel lines? Simplification is nice............

Buy some fuel injection hose.
Using fuel injection hose clamps, connect a section of your hose from the fuel filter to the pulsation damper.
Using fuel injection hose clamps, connect a section of your hose from the return line on the firewall to the nipple on your fuel pressure regulator.

Done.

Compressor surge ;)

Well thats cool, thanks....

Yeah, you might want to add Blow Off Valve to that.

Well, in all fairness to NZ, normally you could just T the BOV line in with the BOV, so you only have 4 vacuum lines connected to the intake manifold, but I was just razzing him.

I'm confused now...I get rid of all solenoids except: FPR, oil nozzle bleed, fuel injector bleed and MAP sensor. Then re-rout the Fuel lines and then I can just cap the rest of the solenoids ......ah man plz explain in detail I am new to the solenoids.Some one should scan the pic of the Haynes Solenoid Diagram, my scanner is down, but I have that book and mark which ones to save and which ones to keep. That's probably asking to much though huh?

you just rip everything off. no need to cap


go through these pics

http://www.1300cc.com/UIM

Yeah, good spotting. :bigthumb: It must've been an NA guy that had four vac lines...

The selonoids are there to control emissions crap, you won't need any selonoids at all. The 4 or 5 vac line setup won't need any of them. Remove the vac rac spider rats nest and throw as far as you can. The vac lines for the stuff mentioned can just be run off the existing nipples in the block and uim.

I'm still a lil confused, so just throw away the whole entire spider, what about the three nipples on the UIM on the front and the 4 on the back?

I bringing this back from the dead, This is what I understand so far. I do Scathcart's fuel line re-routing, trash vac rack and then what? BTW MAP Sensor? What I don't have MAPs, stock ECU btw, is trashing the vac rack possible still, please explain in DETAIL, plz.....I'm begging......

I'm not really sure what you don't understand. All the info you need has been posted, but this pic should help you.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...postid=2224745

Is that the same for a S5? Looks like it would be, but I'm not sure. I'm rebuilding my motor and want to get rid of anything I don't need.

Yes, S5 is virtually identical.

do you need the restrictor pill in the one that goes to the boost sensor I don't have one in mine!

Here is what you do. Take everything off the engine/manifolds.

I personally dont usually run the injector air bleeds, but some may choose to. I usually do run the OMP system stock. These 2 systems use pre-throttlebody air, as opposed to post-TB vacuum. Both these systems, if retained, should be teed together into the original supply nipple for fresh air. ON turbo models this is on the dynamic chamber, back side, fat nipple. On NA models, this is the front of the dynamic chamber.

You MUST keep these 3 systems connected to manifold vacuum with the stock ecu:

boost sensor
BOV
FPR

Run yourself 3 new vacuum lines, tee them together (using a 4 way tee) and run the remaining free nipple to the single nipple on the t2's UIM, passenger side. Now, PLUG ALL OTHER HOLES AND ORIFICES using vacuum caps or whatever else you wish to rig up. You're done.

Leaving them exactly as you found them would be simpler. No tee needed.
Again, using the nipples they originally used seems smarter. This is particularly so in the case of the FPR. Mazda must've had a very good reason to cast a seperate nipple on the LIM for the FPR, so that's where I'd leave it. :)

This is an absolutely EXCELLENT thread, and has given me a ton of information.

Only thing I wanna know is I don't want to do the TB mod because i'm not willing to sacrifice functionality for a few insignificant hp. I'm planning on having a shop clean, adjust, and port the TB, but I don't want to remove the secondary throttle plates. Is anything different if I don't do the TB mod?

Second question, the metal "vacuum" lines under the alternator -- any way to remove them once this is done? Or is it too much work? They're ugly as hell, as are the ones leading to the ACV.


Thanks a ton!

I agree, this is a good thread and should be archived......
Thanks for the info, I DID need a pic b/c I am pretty new so, visuals help a lot. thanks fellas............