so why would my throttle not close all the way back to the little screw?
 

the little screw on the firewall side of tb theres like a 2mm gap. it wont get any closer like something is blocking it but i cant figure out what so it idles @ 1500-1900????

Is this at normal running temp?? If so I had a similar problem!! 88 N/A with s5 block, the guys that did the swap screwed with the TB, and the fast idle cam was way out!! either that, or check the thermowax plunger on TB, if it's not working right it can also effect the fast idle!!! Check the FSM or even a Haynes and it should tell u what to look for and/or how to test these things!!
I do know that if one of those two things are out, that the main butterfly in the TB won't close causeing the car to idle high!!!
"NOT" saying this is the problem in your case but it never hurts to check!
Took me 3 weeks to find that problem!!

Apex

Check you dashpots

Like the man said a post or two above..............the fast idle cam isn't coming off the roller for one reason or the other. Fully warm the engine up and check to make sure the cam came off the roller. See the local FSM and the FUEL SECITON for the location of the water thermowax and fast idle cam/roller.

dont rule out a gummy throttle body.

if ya cant get it to work doing what the other guys said (witch i agree with completely) then take the throttle body off and get to sprayin some carb cleaner. de gum the flappers and the inside of the venturi behind the flappers.

good luck.

well thx for all the advice and i think i might have got the idle fixed but not sure. i adjusted the tps to spec and the bar thats not touching is the one topside and has a screw and nut on it to keep it set

the little idle adjuster next to the air box may need to be adjusted.

It isn't touching, perhaps because the water thermowax's fast idle cam has NOT come off the rollpin shown in the picture.

Don't forget that if your adjusting your idle, make sure the engine is at normal running temp, and jumper the initial set connector!!! little green pulg at front on driver side by leading coil pack!!! small length of wire with 2 1/4" spade terminals will do nicely!!!
unhook initial set connector when your done!!!


Apex

Looking at the fast idle cam, you should see 3 marks on it, one at the back(closer to Dynamic chamber) and 2 side by side at other end!! When the engine is around 77degrees F(just as it's warming up) the roller should be between the 2 nearest marks, if it's not, adjust as needed!!! Again check the FSM on the proper way to do this as I'm sure there's something I've left out!!!
Anyone let me know if I got that wrong!!!!

any one ahve the problem of light throttle and a jake brake feeling when lefting off or hold steady throttle?????

that is your TPS now out of adjustment because you didn't listen to what others were saying. adjusting the TPS while the cam is holding the throttle open will give you some rough low throttle driving conditions because the TPS is telling the ECU that the throttle is fully closed and to set timing to base and start fuel cutting.

Reviving this ancient thread but my problem is exactly like this one so...

My car is a S5 turbo. My BAC valve is on the intake but the plug is off and I have rerouted the coolant around the BAC valve. Also the screw that is mentioned on the first post has a gap at normal temp.

The correct sequence to adjust the idle is this (?) :
Warm up the engine to normal temperature.
First of all I must jumper the green connector next to leading coil in order to set the initial throttle position.
Then I must adjust the fast idle screw that is shown in the pic, in order to place the the center of the cam roller at the upper mark (this is according to FSM).
After that I have to adjust the TPS.
And finally check and adjust the dashpot?