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-   -   so confused (https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/so-confused-907820/)

kenneth oberg 06-08-10 10:54 PM

so confused
 
:scratch:I have an 87 tII and im having flooding problems do to a stuck apex seal in the rear rotor,i tried to hook up a cutoff swith to the fuel pump via the relay under the dash next to the steering column,i was told to use the blue wire on the yellow connector,after i did it when i turn my key to acc my radiator fan turns on and it doesn't start at all now. Any idears would help:scratch:

satch 06-08-10 11:12 PM


Originally Posted by kenneth oberg (Post 10046636)
:scratch:I have an 87 tII and im having flooding problems do to a stuck apex seal in the rear rotor,i tried to hook up a cutoff swith to the fuel pump via the relay under the dash next to the steering column,i was told to use the blue wire on the yellow connector,after i did it when i turn my key to acc my radiator fan turns on and it doesn't start at all now. Any idears would help:scratch:


Was this blue wire solid blue or a blue wire with a stripe?

http://img96.imageshack.us/f/dscf1101x.jpg/

This the connector?

kenneth oberg 06-09-10 07:41 AM

yup thats it,the blue wire with the red stripe

satch 06-09-10 10:41 AM

The relay you used is the "circuit opening relay" and the Blue/Red wire you tapped into supplies voltage to the "fuel pump relay and resistor" which then passes the voltage onto your fuel pump. Is the B/R wire the "only" wire you dealt with relating to the relay? The B/R wire should have voltage on it either when the key is in the start position, or when the car is running and the key is in the on position, or when the fuel pump connector is jumpered and the key is in the on position. How about checking for voltage on this wire right at the relay and before the item you installed. Turn the key to start and check for voltage. You could also jumper the fuel pump connector and with the key to on and check for voltage on the same wire. See where this leads to and we'll go from there. Also, the relay wiring should have nothing to do with the ACC position found on the ignition and appears to be an unrelated issue to your radiator fan.

http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/2...ngrelay.th.png

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/223...laypict.th.png

kenneth oberg 06-09-10 07:04 PM

I took the switch out and re connected the b/r wire and still no fuel and rad fan staying on,one time i tried to unflood it and i pulled out the egi comp fuse and it did the same thing with the rad fan going on,i checked the egi comp fuse and its good is there any other fuses that may cause this? Also when i went to hook up the kill switch i forgot to unplug the battery,my bad,could this of caused a short or blown fuse or killed the relay some how idont know anymore im about to tourch the thing lol.

satch 06-09-10 07:09 PM


Originally Posted by kenneth oberg (Post 10048201)
I took the switch out and re connected the b/r wire and still no fuel and rad fan staying on,one time i tried to unflood it and i pulled out the egi comp fuse and it did the same thing with the rad fan going on,i checked the egi comp fuse and its good is there any other fuses that may cause this? Also when i went to hook up the kill switch i forgot to unplug the battery,my bad,could this of caused a short or blown fuse or killed the relay some how idont know anymore im about to tourch the thing lol.

To diagnose the problem you will need to get some voltage reading on some wires, otherwise it becomes nothing but a guessing game. A good start would be to measure the voltage on the L/R wire as suggested above.

Circuit opening relay uses the 15 amp fuse of the IG1 fuses( says "Engine" on the fuse cover. The fan uses a 7.5 amp IG1 fuse(says "Meter" on the cover) and one of the 15 amp IG2 fuses(says "Cooling Fan" on the cover) which has a yellow wire coming out of it.

HAILERS 06-09-10 09:17 PM

. edited

ioScream 06-09-10 09:20 PM


Originally Posted by kenneth oberg (Post 10048201)
I took the switch out and re connected the b/r wire and still no fuel and rad fan staying on,one time i tried to unflood it and i pulled out the egi comp fuse and it did the same thing with the rad fan going on,i checked the egi comp fuse and its good is there any other fuses that may cause this? Also when i went to hook up the kill switch i forgot to unplug the battery,my bad,could this of caused a short or blown fuse or killed the relay some how idont know anymore im about to tourch the thing lol.

If you do decide to torch it.. I'll give you money for it before-hand.. torching = no profit. Sorry I couldn't help.

HAILERS 06-09-10 10:09 PM

One other thing can cause the elect fan to run when key is to ON other than the METER fuse being blown and letting the fan relay relax to pass power to the fan.

IF the ECU does not get power from the EGI COMP fuse........then the ECU can't put a gnd on the L/O wire (pin 1E of the ECU) to the FAN SUB RELAY so that relay will relax and.........the fan will run.

So I'm saying that you should check the EGI COMP fuse once more and to be sure it's good, check pin 3I (black/white wire) on the small plug of the ECU for batt pwer. If pwr is not there, then the EGI COMP fuse is not putting power on the ECU. Either the EGI COMP is blown or ??? an open path from it to the ECU pin 3I.

I'm a little muddled on the fan elect system.......but I KNOW, like the thread owner said, that if the EGI COMP fuse is pulled and the key is ON.......then the fan will start running. The only connection I see for the EGI COMP fuse to the fan elect system is the L/O wire from pin 1E of the ECU which puts a gnd on this wire. But I guess if the ECU is not getting power from the EGI COMP fuse then it cannot do this function and therefore the fan starts running when key is ON.

Like I say, I can see if the METER FUSE is blown, how the fan would start running, but that has no connection to the EGI COMP fuse. The EGI COMP fuse being blown or pulled makes the fan run thru pin 1E of the ECU.

Also has no connection to the fuel pump circuit either so I guess I'm off subject a bit here.

Elec fan puzzles me. I also know if you pull the single wire off the fan thermostat sensor......the fan will run. I guess a LACK of a gnd on the fan sub relay makes the cooling fan control unit pull in the elect fan relay (not sub relay....fan relay). Like I say, I'm muddled on exactly how the fan runs....a bit.

Fuel pump uses the ENGINE FUSE for power. Located in the interior fuse box. Has zip to do with the elect fan running that you mentioned.

The fan running pricked my curiosity a bit. I've gotta work on how that fan works someday.

satch 06-09-10 10:17 PM


Originally Posted by HAILERS (Post 10048599)
The fan running pricked my curiosity a bit. I've gotta work on how that fan works someday.

I believe in the first post he suggests the fan turns on when the key is in the Accessory position!

LunchboxCritter 06-09-10 11:04 PM

Undo everything that you have "altered" and see if it will run again. (remove the fuel cut switch, and replace any fuses/relays that you may have blown or burnt)

How do you know you have a stuck seal and not a worse problem without cracking it open?

If it's just stuck there are ways to attempt to get it unstuck. I'd suggest trying some of those and see if that fixes your flooding problems. That switch is like putting a bandaid over a gunshot wound.

kenneth oberg 06-10-10 08:37 PM

Thanks for the replies im gona break out the multi meter this weekend when i get some time away from work.


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