Series 5 ECU codes...help diagnose!
 

Ok...

Brief background. Posted this also on ausrotary.com but no one really could help assist there. I even contacted a few "rotary guru" expert shops around the area but no one would touch it!...so in my desperate attemtps I've booked in at Mazda tomorrow to try and see if they can help diagnose all the codes. I know....I've resorted to the dealership...god help me.

Anyway....

I just finished making my single LED check light for my Aust delivered 1989 S5 rx7

I just cant for the life of me diagnose all of the codes.... I've attached the video of the codes...can anyone help tell me what numbers they are? I have the fsm and can read what they are if I can just see what numbers it is spouting!

haha go youtube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1uX0Aga71A


I know its def timing/mixture related...since I am on "limp home mode" constantly...the car has nothing atm in the way of power. I need my boost back!

Freakin codes!

just out of interest - how did you make the check light and wire it in ??

cheers

Stu

It's an S5. Why can't you just use the Check Engine Light on the Logicon? Ground the initial set connector, turn the key to the on position and count the number of flashes of the CEL. Long flashes are 10's, short flashes are 1's. A long followed by 3 shorts would be code 13. If there is more than 1 code stored, it will wait a second or two and start flashing the next one. After it has flashed out all the codes it has stored, it will repeat the sequence. Much easier to interpret than the wild flashing I saw on your test light.

Ahhh.... ok well it's easy enough.

Make it as per:

http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...odes/main.html

I found a red flashing LED with an IC oscillator circuit which grabs volts from 3 to 15. Then just soldered up the anode (ie +) and cathode ( - ) points to some wire with two male spades on either end. Then you simple ground the test pin - plug the + into the ABR (ie top middle square) and the - spade to the DCC (remember...you'll only have one DCC point if your car doesnt have a check engine light and is a series 5)...and voila... there you have it.

more info for you:

light on for 0.4 secs- single digit code
1.6 second gap between short and long flashes
light on 1.2 second - ( tenths of digits code )

4 seconds between new codes

If you havnt got a list of the codes grab a FSM. Hope you have more luck than I do... looks like I'm off to Mazda tomorrow....

In an ideal world I would agree. However..it's an AUSTRALIAN delievered series 5...which means...... no check engine light. Which lead me to why I had to wire it up myself in the first place to get the codes :)

If only it was a direct jap import!

But thanks for trying to point out a simple method for me...hehe.

mine is a jap S5 - so no check light ( and there isnt any on the UK ones eother ) - something about US cars HAVE to have this feature

i will have to try with an LED - i tried it with a 12v bulb and got NOTHING at all from it

did you get any sort of reading from your check light ??? - or was it a waste of time ??

ta

stu

I got plenty of codes. I just need to study them hard and try to figure out what they are. I have a feeling it has something to do with my MOP.

You should have no problems wiring up your code checker.

cheers for that - just need to find an LED that will work

will a normal 12v LED work - or do i need something fancy ??

cheers

Stu

Any led that has voltage from I guess 3v to 15v should do the trick fine. Just make sure it is good for a flashing setup and bright enough for you. Helps if the LED is already wired for - and + poles instead of what I had to do and solder the wires to the thin poles myself...lol.

cheers matey

no idea how to check that it will light on 3V - 15V though ????

thanks for the help - im having a real time trying to get the heap of shit working - got a new ECU on its way - but could do with error checking the thing aswell

thanks for the info though :D

Stu

the JDM cars use a different thingee, the check engine light is a different pin on the ecu.

basically you hook a voltmeter to the diagnostic connector by the battery, the ecu will then spit out the codes when you ground the initial set coupler.

best to do this with a needle type voltmeter, but it kinda reads backwards, 0v = light on, and full voltage = off.

so it normally sits at 12v, and then it would bounce to zero to "flash" the codes.

you got any idea what pin that you need to stick the voltmeter on ???

why are JDM cars so silly :(

Stu