A sad thing to have to admit, but...
I've had my rex for 2 years... I found out yesterday that the shift buzzer works. :rolleyes:
I know, I'm pathetic. :D |
hehehehe .... :rofl:
20 lashes for you, and you must now walk over hot coals :D |
TWO YEARS AND YOU DIDNT RED LINE IT?!?!?!?! damn thats gotta be boring. I hold mine in the red line daily, shit.. multi times daily. You're poor rex :D j/p man
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WOW. I learned that the day I bought my car. A buddy of mine had a friend w/ a FB, and he told me to redline it and see what happened. I love that little thing!! Ricers needs shift lights, racers need buzzers;)
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so, is the buzzer supposed to come on just before redline or after. mine goes on at about 7800RPM and I have a 91 N/A
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I've never redlined my FD. I really baby my baby. I'll do it someday. :rolleyes:
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yea that would be it jeff.......i redline my car every time i take it out unless im poor and dont wanna waste gas...i wish i couldnt redline it but its such an addiction...driving it is sooo fun!!!!!!
Now that u redlined it once, do yourself and your car a favor and drive it like it wants to be!!redline that diddy..the relationship between u and your car will be forever changed |
Originally posted by jeff_oner so, is the buzzer supposed to come on just before redline or after. mine goes on at about 7800RPM and I have a 91 N/A Redlining the car is a daily thing for me. I think its a disease! The sound of the engine at redline, the buzzer and the flames when I shift are VERY addicting. I need help. |
WELL MY BUZZER works when it wants to soi do not have a buzzer. really sucks!have a shift light though which isnt that cool under my white gauges so all it is is a yellow square! lol i can resolder the cpu for the buzzer right?
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hrm... I wouldn't know... auto sucks. I can't wait till I have the money to get it converted, although my dad doesn't want me to, so I'm thinking that if he doesn't let me, I'll just sell it and buy a TII.
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I don't know if mine works :) but I did hit 6997 on my S-afc last week :D
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lol shit you guys I hit redline everytime I drive my car anyway....whether it be a hour trip or a min. down to the store :)
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I freak people out with that buzzer. When someone is riding with me, and I hit redline, I act like something broke. They start panicking... Definately worth trying that if you haven't before.
Never redlined your FD? Have fun rebuilding the engine once its carbon locked... |
People always ask me what the beeping was. First time I did it I thought someone was honking at me. Now I redline it everytime I drive it. It is addicting...very :bigthumb:
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yeah the first time i did it (about an hr after buying the car) i thought that some one was laying onthe horn at me
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Originally posted by easy p-cheesy Never redlined your FD? Have fun rebuilding the engine once its carbon locked... |
I don't think mine has a redline buzzer.. or does my ECU need resoldered?
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they all have buzzers, i had one car where it was broken. the damn thing would sometimes go off at 4k sometimes 8k, but mostly somewhere in between
mike |
Originally posted by Pinfield357 yeah the first time i did it (about an hr after buying the car) i thought that some one was laying onthe horn at me bleh... |
never redline my car yet, just took it to 7k :)
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Apart from cleaning out carbon deposits, is there much point Redlining? I'm not sure of exact figures, but Torque would drop off somewhere around 6000rpms (Turbo car), so wouldn't that be the optimum shift point?
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Shifting at redline is best for power on ANY car. Unless it runs out of steam at a low RPM. By shifting at 7k the arps come down to 5300-5500 depending on the gear. Perfect!!
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Originally posted by StarionX Apart from cleaning out carbon deposits, is there much point Redlining? I'm not sure of exact figures, but Torque would drop off somewhere around 6000rpms (Turbo car), so wouldn't that be the optimum shift point? |
rotary engines like/need to be redlined it helps clean out the carbon deposits and for shifting you would want to take it a few hundred rpms over so that when the rpms drop during the shift you are still in your power curve.
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Originally posted by rico05 WOW. I learned that the day I bought my car. A buddy of mine had a friend w/ a FB, and he told me to redline it and see what happened. I love that little thing!! Ricers needs shift lights, racers need buzzers;) |
Originally posted by Pinfield357 rotary engines like/need to be redlined it helps clean out the carbon deposits... |
i rev my gsl-se until the tach stops moving, but a shift at or near the redline is fine
mike |
that buzzer's funny... i went with my friend to go test drive an fc from this guy out in seal beach, and when we took it out, as soon as we got from the residential area to the umm... non-residential area, i took it up to redline and he was scared shitless... he was like oh shit! that can't be good... the look on his face was hilarious... i couldn't stop laughing for a long ass time.... :D
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Well, every trip is a little excess. Mine sees redline maybe every or every other day. But it definately sees 6500-7000 daily.
Think here, the rotors are going at 2666 RPMs at redline. The apex's run along the smooth housings with a thin layer of oil. Same as side seals. The weight of the rotor causes the eccentric shaft to wan't to bend :eek:. But we have those 18 long bolts through the engine to stop that. The heat goes up immensly so obviously, you don't hold it there for more than a second or so... SHIFT!. The most strain would be on the stationary gears, they tend to break at 9000 FlyWRPMs. I really don't see how the coolant seals would break unless it was really hot/pressurized in the system. So, all in all, it's not THAT bad for a rotary. But don't do it every trip. :) |
Originally posted by R1Outcast I've never redlined my FD. I really baby my baby. I'll do it someday. :rolleyes: |
Originally posted by bob13bt Shifting at redline is best for power on ANY car. Unless it runs out of steam at a low RPM. By shifting at 7k the arps come down to 5300-5500 depending on the gear. Perfect!! But I could be wrong... :D |
Originally posted by jspecracer7 easy....I knew you were cool. Sometimes, I LIVE in the redline....I've pushed her to 9900 rpm's before. I have a freind with a stock tranny that has gone to 11000 rpms:eek: |
Originally posted by StarionX I have to disagree with that. Redline is the MAX that the manufacturer recommends the engine can take consistantly. It doesn't mean you will get max power and acceleration (and acceleration is what I'm more interested in). After the torque starts dropping off, you get no more acceleration, so at that point, it is better to change gears. The only benefit of going to redline is that you don't lose time while you change gears. But I could be wrong... :D |
Ugh, you guys are wrong about the redline/torque/power issue :rolleyes:
It really depends on the car. For a Healthy S5 N/A, 7900 is the optimal shift point. THINK, max torque/accel is at 4000. The gearing from 1-2 is huge, A shift at 6000 will take it down to like 4500 in 2nd. It's more than just torque though, it's maximum sustained horsepower throughout the entire shift/rev situation. ugh, i made a huge post about this a while back : https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ighlight=shift |
I don't want to sound like an old granny, but... There is a big difference between Max Torque, sustained Torque, and Torque dropoff, and I'm ONLY talking about Torque (accelaration)... H/P (speed) is a totally different issue. Hyperthetical example; Max torque is at 4000rpms, sustained torque between 4000 and 6500rpms, after which it drops off drastically.
With this scenario, there would be no point accelarating much past 6500 as you are no longer accelerating but just going faster at a fixed rate. Now the problem would be that if you changed gears and the revs dropped below Max torque, you are no longer in the 'power band' in which case you would need to experiment to find the optimum shift point. The only reason I can see to redline, would be to avoid a gear shift, and this would only be useful if you were doing a 1/4 mile run. We also have to remeber that unless you are driving a completely STOCK car, everyone's shift points will be different because of different mods (more/less hp/torque) to the car. The notion that you can go faster because you can rev the engine longer is ridiculous. A stock V8 Firechicken can't rev much past 6000, but will still wipe the floor racing a stock Rex that can rev to 7800. It's all about the 'powerband'. Going outside of that is literally a waste of time. Ummm, in case you are wondering... I DO love my rex, but I'm also a realist. :D Flame away! ;) |
Well, if you read my other thread, you'd note that the HP/Speed theory is much better for drag racing.
torque will give best accel in that GEAR. HP will give max accel for that SPEED. You make the call ;) |
Originally posted by Barwick No.. most domestics as I understand only put a redline on their vehicles because there's like ZERO power beyond it, and it's totally useless.. I'm pretty sure the engines can spin up higher, but there's no reason to do it, as there's no power there. Example: Chevy sprint- 6500 rpm redline, but no power above 4000. You're wrong, sorry. |
Originally posted by dre_2ooo Well, if you read my other thread, you'd note that the HP/Speed theory is much better for drag racing. torque will give best accel in that GEAR. HP will give max accel for that SPEED. You make the call ;) |
Originally posted by bob13bt Shifting at redline is best for power on ANY car. Unless it runs out of steam at a low RPM. By shifting at 7k the arps come down to 5300-5500 depending on the gear. Perfect!! quick question, slightly off-topic, but what kind of car is that in your avatar? |
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