S5 TII with bad wiring harness (price ???)
 

So my '89 TII has been sitting a couple of months due to a bad wiring harness. I've been wanting to sell after buying another car in october but I've been lazy and the car isn't going anywhere with the summer tires it has anyway. Well now its warmed up and people might have tax refunds to spend so I'm getting it ready to sell. It has a mazda remanufactued engine with about 200k miles.

Here are some details about my car:

~ Black exterior and black interior.

~ Cloth GXL seats with leather door panels.
There were no TII seats when I bought this car. Instead it had old and destoyed
Recaros. I swapped the Recaros with the seats from my '89 RX-7 GXL when I sold it.

~ 113k miles on chassis

~ 2k on Mazda remanufactured engine

~ Full Greddy exhaust. That means down pipe, larger cat, y-pipes and dual mufflers.

~ Eibach pro-kit springs

~ Tokico illumina adjustable struts

~ Corksport front strut bar

~ New walbro 255 LPH fuel pump

~ Stock fuel injectors professionally cleaned during engine install

~ New Koyo aluminum radiator

~ Yokohama ES300 225/50/16 tires with a lot of life left

~ Voodoo black spun-aluminum shift knob

~ Red-stitched real leather shifter boot

~ New Jensen head unit with ipod connection cable

~ New Optima red-top battery in drivers-side storage bin

~ New 15% window tint

~ New platinum NGK spark plugs


The Bad Stuff:

~ Large drivers-side door dent. Plus after leaving my car sitting at the shop for a couple months,
it aquired a lot of little dings on the drivers door. I was pretty pissed.

~ The car had no audio system at all when I bought it. It now has a new head unit and new
rear speakers in the hatch. No front speakers at all.

~ The wiring harness has been baked by time, rotary heat and the turbo.

~ The car does not run.


* Anything desribed as "New" above was a brand-new part installed during my ownership of the car. I have receipts for the engine, injector and fuel pump installs.


What would be a reasonable price to sell this car at?

Heres a couple pics. I would have a lot more detailed ones when I sell it of course.

http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/9597/t2fcvc7.jpg


http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/7940/fc4bimmda5.jpg

The engine has 2 thousand miles not 200k. Its barely over a year old.
I can't seem to edit my first post.

im thinking 2200, but i dont know much on the price of the turbo models

considering the price of a new wiring harness, id call 4500 a fair price for that car

check the for sale section in ohiorotaries.com they have one for 100 bucks

Can it perform a warm compression test?
Can it perform a cold compression test?
Will it start?
Will it run?
How can anyone be sure that it is worth buying and shipping? Because you sure cannot drive it home.

I believe you when you tell us that all it needs is a harness, but would I be willing gamble on it to pay you for the car and also pay for the thing to be shipped somewhere? Not really.

Honestly, this is a non running car. Lots of nice parts, but we all know how those investments work out-they don't.

If it was running, this is a pretty nice running collection of parts on a beat to hell body. If I was buying it (I am not!@) it might be worth $2500.

If it is not running it is a non running roller. The very fact that you have put all the parts and money into it and now it doesn't run scares most people off.

If you cannot get it running, you should part it out. If you can get it running, $2500. Hell, it needs $2500 worth of body work just to make it into a non-embarrassing ride. OTOH, a guy that is pretty good with bondo could beat out the door, bondo the door and rattle can the whole car for a couple of hundred dollars...

If I were in your shoes, I would make the car run, buy a black door off the FS board and THEN sell it for $4500-$5000. You should easily get that for this car.

Sorry, not trying to beat you up, but you asked.

Good luck with your decisions!

s5 t2's go for a lot more than 2500 running haha
Even if there is a dent in the door the body looks
very clean everywhere else, if I had a blown apex
or something like that I could see it sell for 2000-2500
but if you could get it running I would ask 3800-4k something
Bump for a nice starter T2-

+1. With all the mods and if you have proof of the engine being a reman with 2000 miles, this car should sell for at least $3500. If I were you, I would install a new harness ($150.00 or somewhere around there) and a few hours of work....find a dentless door(should be able to find a nice one on ebay for cheap) and sell the car for $5000

It's not running genius. You can't tell if it has a blown apex seal, water sea,l oil seal, if the turbo boosts, vacuum leaks, etc etc. Unless it runs, a buyer MUST assume that the engine is bad. You could assume otherwise, but do that a couple of times and you will be sorry. I am NOT accusing the OP of trying to cheat anyone whatsoever!! I am merely pointing out that it is buyer beware on any car, but especially non-running. If it won't run, a buyer must assume the worst. It is the seller's obligation to make the buyer believe that the motor is good at the time of sale. Lots of things can go wrong even if the seller is trustworthy loyal helpful friendly courteous kind obedient cheerful thrifty brave clean and reverent. What if a coolant seal is leaking and the housings are rusted? How can you tell?

And I am sure glad you can tell how nice the rest of the body is from those little pictures. I can barely make out how bad the damage on the door is, how can I tell if the rest of the car is 'nice'.


You're saying the same thing I said, just with different numbers... Fix the car, make it run and not look like shit, it's worth good money.

Not running, it's not going to sell. You can say what you think it's worth with all the parts, but you are blowing smoke and making it up. The market rules and there is little market for non-running beat up cars for $3500.

If you say it is worth $3500, then pony up and buy it. Don't give the OP hope, give him cash!

Oh, you're not in the market for a $3500 non running car? Neither is anyone else!

Money talks and bullshit walks.

I am well aware of the 'value' of the add on parts. They don't make a bit of difference unless the car is running.

A part-out happens when the price of the parts is worth more than the car, as it sits. As it sits, it doesn't run and is beat up. I'm sorry that this is the case, but it's the truth.

This car is a part out unless it runs.

Here is what the car is worth parted:


$50 local- Cloth GXL seats with leather door panels.

$1500 2k on Mazda remanufactured engine (if it can pass a compression test)

$400 Full Greddy exhaust. That means down pipe, larger cat, y-pipes and dual mufflers.

$150 Eibach pro-kit springs

$300 Tokico illumina adjustable struts

$100 Corksport front strut bar

$75 (if it is not a knockoff) New walbro 255 LPH fuel pump
$100 Stock fuel injectors professionally cleaned during engine install
$150 New Koyo aluminum radiator
$150 Yokohama ES300 225/50/16 tires with a lot of life left

$10 Voodoo black spun-aluminum shift knob

$5 Red-stitched real leather shifter boot

$50 (Jensen?)New Jensen head unit with ipod connection cable

$75.00New Optima red-top battery in drivers-side storage bin

0 New 15% window tint

$15.00 New platinum NGK spark plugs

$100 Hood (if it is aluminum)

$1000 Other assorted parts


$4050 total, the hard way, +/- a couple of hundred of bucks. You can argue the $ a couple of hundred either way, but that's about it.

Ever parted a car? I have. It's not a lot of fun.

Sorry, get it running and looking nice; it is likely to sell for $4000.

Yo Einstein, someone who knows what there looking at can tell all of that with close inspection without it running. The difference in our argument here is that I am in the market for a new rx7, He is in CO and that is way to far for me, I was simply stating what I can pay. It also helps not being a pessimist cause my wallet is half full, you don't expect the worst. you expect the best and have a little faith in other people. as far as how can you tell by those little pics thing what seller is honestly going to not mention body damage? It is something that can't be hidden cause there is no point in lying about that, the first person who looks at the car will see what ever was not mentioned its not like hiding turbo shaft play or something like that so again you just have to expect that the body is in great shape except for minor dings, and that dent because he said so and because in the two pics he has nothing is noticeable.
Sorry for all the thread clutter: I was just stating that if I was you 2500 is what I would pay as it sits right now. If you got it running I would pay like I said between 3800-4k something.

Should this thread be in the lounge???
 

So, Genius, tell me this: If it is going to be exactly as the OP says, why wouldn't he fix it and make the extra $1500-$2000 when he sells it? Hmmm? Hmmm? Well, I don't know either.

Thanks for proving my point. You won't pay that price plus have it shipped plus trust someone that you haven't met about a car that you haven't inspected. That applies to 99% of the potential buyers on this board. Face it, the very facts degrade the sales possibilities.

This doesn't just apply to this car, but to all cars offered as 'not running but just need a little fix'.

You think that it is a tribute to human nature that you would be glad to trust and pay a premium for this non running car? Except that you really aren't!? Did you really say that with a straight face? You make me laugh!

$303 + $27 taxes & fees = $330 per person-Columbus to Denver, round trip, United Airlines 5903. If the car doesn't measure up, you go home if it does, you drive home. Piece of cake-you said you are in the market. If it is such a good deal, pull the trigger.

See what I mean, 12arotary? Bullshit walks.

To the OP: JinZemog My statements are no reflection on you, your car or your honesty. I believe the car is everything you state that it is. I believe it because I am not considering paying my hard earned money for it. If I was really considering this as a purchase, I will be much more skeptical. So will anyone else, this is normal. I am just trying to help answer your question and this destructive/constructive dialogue can help you decide the best path for you and your car.

Good Luck with your decision!

You guys have to assume the engine could be bad. If you don't know the seller personally, its really a gamble. I have bought and sold a lot to know stuff like this. And was always cautious. I always buy rollers thinking the engine is bad even when the seller say its still good. If its not running, there's no way of checking if its a good engine. Apex seals can be checked through the exhaust ports but you can't tell if the Oil Control rings are bad or coolant seals. That's why I told the seller its best if he gets it running and makes more profit(not accusing him lying or not), unless he waits for that risky gambler which might take a while. Otherwise, $2500 is MAX. But I would pay $2000 MAX just because its black.

I hope this pic is big enough...

You can see a couple dents. There are about 5 more little dents because this is an old pic from before the tint and the wiring trouble.
The big dent is directly under the door handle.

The car does not look beat up or "like shit". You can't really see most of the dents and dings at most angles because the car is black.

I have sold a '88 vert '89 GXL and parted out a N/A '91 coupe. I still have parts from that '91. Including a nice-looking drivers door in brave blue that could easily be included with the TII. I would feel guilty to part-out (kill) a beautiful and rare series 5 turbo FC.

As I stated, I do have receipts for the engine and install. I also have the phone number to the well known Colorado rotary shop who did the work and also drove the vehicle while investigation the short. I don't know if that really changes any notions or prices but I hope it would a little bit.

I've have driven FC RX-7s for seven years and after fixing and spending money on 15-20 year old cars that long. I was ready for something newer.

In November I bought a 2002 BMW 330xi and after having basically no car payments and super cheap liability only insurance for years, I don't have a lot of cash to throw at the TII now.

I research everything I do and a usable series 5 turbo wiring harness cannot be found for less than $800. To whoever said "you can get a harness for around $150". Yeah sure, that would be great! But it would be a series 4 N/A harness.

I don't have $1000 to put into the TII and I really would prefer to not spend hours in my dads garage labeling all the connections and removing the upper intake manifold and all the crap attached to it.

I haven't been around the RX-7 community lately and wanted to get an idea of what my car is worth these days. Nice S5 TIIs' seemed to get $5k from what I remember. I wanted to see if this was still true. I basically wanted to see if I could get $3k or more for the car as-is.

It seems I will just have to save up a while to buy a harness then get my ass under the hood. ugh.


http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/7756/bigtiilk7.jpg

Will the car turn over, or dose it give nothing at all with the turn of the key?

It will crank a couple times then blow the ECU fuse. Over and over...

Even more stuff I forgot I had for the car:

~ Racing beat FCD

~ Defi boost guage in a corksport A-pillar dual guage holder. There is one empty hole.

~ New momo corse 330mm suede steering wheel

~ New uninstalled HKS turbo timer with FC harness

~ New & uninstalled Shine Auto, "FPR" Type 1 front lip spoiler. (They no longer sell this lip)

I would grab this up for $2000 cash if you wern't so far away.

Jack: I said exactly what you said. My bad, I should have read the whole page. It sounds like you have done alot of work to your car, Jin, Why even sell it?

If we could work out somthing with shipping I would trade a real 97 kouki s14. I like working on cars and allready have an FD, an s13 with a ca18det. The s14 is perfect. The only problem I can see is distance. If your interested I will give you all of my cars details with pics, and maybe we could work somthing out with shipping.

id say u could prooly get 3000k but not sure about the motor with it setting the seals are slowly rusting to the rotors and even with 2k miles on it it could need a rebuild now

And on with the move.

Why the move?

Because you are asking what your car could be worth. This is not an auction site where people shoot off prices for your car. That's why. Once you FIGURE OUT a price that is fair for your FC, you can post up an ad.

Thanks.

It might not be the harness actually, i'd say it's probably something wrong with the injectors.

Is it stock turbo? What is the mileage on the turbo?

Clutch? how is that?