S5 omp system blockoff/removal and rats nest removal Q's
 

It's come time where I'd like to remove the OMP system from my S5 rx-7. I've heard there are a few technical issues I should look at because it's electrical, and it might throw my car in limp mode. I was wondering where is the best blockoff plates I can get, and what blockoff plates do I get?

Also pertaining to the OMP blockoff, how can I stop it from going limp mode if that is the case with S5 rx7 OMP's?

And also, what do I need to keep from the rat's nest in order for it to run properly?

Also, removing the 5th and 6th port actuators, will there need to be any adjustments to anything to keep the motor at least running?

One last question, what kind of oil-to-fuel fillup or whatever ratio should I use when running premix?

I've always wondered how hard it would be to convert over the OMP from an RX8. If it's a street car the omp truely is the best way to go.

nope, because the OMP failed me and it blew my motor, so i have ZERO faith in electrical OMP's now.

So is every sensor that keeps the motor running. Mechanical parts fail as well. I haven't seen but maybe one person if that having problems with the RX8 omp. Technology changes. It's been 20 years I'm sure lots of things will fail after that long.

2 Stroke Oil
ounces gals Ounces Ratio n/1
8 10 1280 160
6 10 1280 213
4 10 1280 320
3 10 1280 427
2 10 1280 640

8 13 1664 208
6 13 1664 277
4 13 1664 416
3 13 1664 555
2 13 1664 832

8 15.9 2035.2 254
6 15.9 2035.2 339
4 15.9 2035.2 509
3 15.9 2035.2 678
2 15.9 2035.2 1018

List that was compiled in 2004 though if you would like it.
(8oz per 10 gallons) 160:1 or leaner if you drive lighter 200:1

thanks a lot, and yeah i agree mech parts do fail, but i am just severely disappointed in an electrical failure that caused the motor to go, that's just ridiculous.


still looking for any info on what lines i need to keep from the rats nest (seeing as how there was like a secondary fuel rail in that bunch anyways, not to mention a vacuum line or two that probably went somewhere important, like the brakes.)

Most guys either leave the OMP and pre-mix or unbolt it from the front cover, block-off the front cover and tie the pump to the side of the strut tower, leaving it plugged in and premix.

You don't want to disable the 6PI system (which on the S5 is run via air pump, solenoid, hoses and activated via computer). You'll loose power in the high end. Some of us call it the VTEC of rotaries. There is a write up on the rats nest removal somewhere...see my sig. there may be a link from the links. You can remove the emissions related stuff, but if you start removing driveability stuff (BAC, fast-idle, etc.) you'll loose some practicality from the car. Just sayin'.

well i drove the car with 1 port actuator completely ripped off (fuck yeah previous owner), and people are telling me i'll actually lose power in the low end but gain higher end if i remove the air pumps and just keep them open 24/7. however i've been told it'll run like turd when i start it, which i'm fine with really, as long as it starts and drives.

wouldn't this cause the pump to dump -retarded- amounts of oil out of the pan when it's on?

No, because it's gets its oil feed from the front cover, when it's moved to the side it does nothing other than keep the ECU happy.

Partially true, the silver "push button" looking part needs to be pushed in. Try using electrical tape and taping it down...otherwise you will hit limp mode all the time....

Atleast thats how it is on my s5 t2:icon_tup:

Here is what you need to do it RIGHT and cleanly:

http://www.banzai-racing.com/product...p_BOP_kit3.jpg

http://www.banzai-racing.com/products_S5_omp_bop.htm

properly fitting OMP delete hardware

http://www.digitaltuning.com/index.p...age=1&ecu=S5NA

Rtek chipped ECU that eliminates limp mode, allowing you to take the pump out completely and disconnect it

yeah i'm really on a budget here so i'm trying not to overdo it

the omp block off plate is a necessity, i have the gasket for it too, now i just need to take the pump out and tape the silver button down and just kinda let it chill somewhere in the engine bay??

^^ yep, thats it.

if you keep it plugged in and it develops an internal electrical failure, it will destroy your ECU. It's been known to happen.

i'll be sure to saran wrap it or something to keep the moisture out, will taht work?

bump

still looking for an 89-91 s5 writeup or general info on what to do with the rats nest since i'm going premix no OMP. people say plug the main vacuum hose that runs to the vacuum line, but i saw a sort of "secondary" fuel rail that the lines are bracket welded onto the rats nest. WHAT TO DOOOO :(

You can cut the unnecessary stuff off the solenoid rack and just keep the bracket for the 2nd LIM support and the two fuel lines or just run two new fuel lines to the filter and return line (on the firewall)

that's hot, thanks bro

does anyone know what affect it will have if i -remove- the 5th and 6th actuators and just left them wide open or even remove the flappers? my buddy claims i will lose some low end torque and gas mileage but the high end stays the same more or less, i'm really not worried since this will be a track/weekend mobile, maybe a backup DD if my b16a2 decides to give me more problems. any input?

you will definitely lose low end. I know from experience (wired open aux ports). If you have an s5 the actuators are operated by the airpump and are much more reliable than the s4 system.

it will certainly be driveable, but going up hills and such will be annoying and require more shifting.

I've been using 1oz oil to 1 gal fuel for years...

all i needed to know, thanks man :D

bump, with one more notion in mind:

regarding the likelihood of me removing the air pump, is a yoohoo belt absolutely necessary? or can i skate by with just leaving that alone? people say when you remove the air pump it creates slack in the belt. what's the scoop?

^^^ My GTUs has the actuator ports removed, it's wide open. Drive ability isn't bad at all, it just takes some getting used to. Real power starting at 4k, but after that it rips. I'd much rather have them working though.

^ouch

for me it's like power at 2.3k or so, when the 5/6 dont open high rpms are snail slow, when they do its like vtech haha

bump

do i need the yoohoo belt?