S5 Eprom tuning-Fuel and boost cut removal(n374 fix)
 

hey guys my eprom burner came in i got the Moates Burn1 burner/reader, I have the series 5 stock eprom, knight sport, and my tom's racing tuned eprom that was tuned for my motor and set up
i was usin the tunerpro RT but i don't have any definition files so all i can do is compare the differances (it lists all differances between 2 .bins) ,edit the hex. and view in 2D and 3d maps, i'm starting to get the hang of it

I've been readin over posts on mx6.com from people who cracked the code for the 88-91 mx6 turbos, they made their own definitions file but they are different obviously but the values are the same they removed their fuel and boost cuts by raising values to the max (ex. 65 to 255 or A3 to FF dependin if you look at decimal or hex)
I started out comparing the stock eprom to the knights sport with the fuel and boost cut/revlimiter removed right away the fuel and boost cut were obvious ...a big stip of atleast 100 "FF"s where on the stock eprom it had lower valueseven on the #D map the knightsport shot to the max where the stock had an actual map

so i went through and wrote down the adress for all the drastic changes between the 2 then i compared the tom's eprom to the stock one to see where the values i had marked down were similar to each other but different than the knights sport chip

and cut and paste the code from the knightsport on the tom's racing eprom
so now my tom's ecu should have the fuel/boostcut/revlimiter removed

i just got the eprom burner last night so when i figure more things out i can start to try to make a definition file for the ecu ...
I'm goin to test my altered eprom out this afternoon so i'll post the results later on ....if it runs both rotors it worked! i think it should

as for the knightsport chip it works in the N374 ecu and has some modification to the fuel and timing maps and the fuel cut, revlimiter and boost cut removed
its more than likely set up for a stock motor and turbo with the 3"dp


if anyone wants to donate a N370 eprom it would be much appreciated...or even just the .BIN file

Is there any binary guru's or anyone with experience doin this out there??

I'm not at all familiar with eprom burners or modifying the stock ECUs, BUT I do have a spare N370 ECU I can donate. I believe it has fried MOP circuits, but other than that it seemed to be working fine.

Toss me a PM and we can talk about it more

N374 and N370 Hardware vs Firmware Differences
 

This Firmware investigation you have initiated is a topic related to what I am trying to determine with regard to hardware differences between the N374 and N370 ECUs. (see following link https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/n370-vs-n374-s5-ecu-comparison-728594/)

I have a couple N374s that I have been looking at for hardware differences that would affect engine operation. In other words, why do the N374s not always work the SAME as a N370 ECU in a car.

One of the N374 ECUs I have is a Pan-Speed Light Sport Programmed Computer. However, they have glopped some kind of clear material (maybe epoxy) on both the top and bottom of the EPROM device to make it difficult to remove if not impossible. Probably to prevent inspection of the programmed BIN file.

BTW, I am trying to start an EPROM Firmware list (at site given above) for the various ECUs to see how many and what are the programmed differences between them.

I'll keep monitoring your progress.

Interesting stuff guys. Keep it up!

Good to see you've got your project going still. Good luck with it.

can you tell if the Knightsports chip retards or advances timing?

sorry i didn't post yesterday i tried my first eprom and it didn't work lol it was still running on one rotor....i went home and started comparing each value that the same between my tom's eprom and the stock one but were different on the knight sport chip. i changed those and it worked .....i'm still learning it so i'm kind of dcared ...i'm not sure what actually made it run both rotors...i need to do more tinkering...

when it ran on my altered toms erpom it was alittle hesitant to start ...with the knights sport chip it fired up in a second and the knights sport chip seemed to run it smoother...i'm not sure if i was just cuz i was messin with the hose yesterday and when it heated up it was leakin a bit but with that altered eprom my vacuum was reading lower ....i'm waitin to hear back from some people that have experience doin this stuff with the S4's

with my tuned eprom it does rev nice and it'll idle at around 700...it could just be me being paranoid...its not on the road so i haven't been able to really drive it yet just a couple granny cruises down the street to loosen the brakes up
its just the knights sport chip ran it smoother .....my WB02 will be in on thursday so that'll give me some reassurance

i don't have enough confidence yet to say whether it advances or retards the timing ....***this is just my assumption**** it looks like it retards the timing and adds alittle extra fuel.....it was probably originally tuned for the extra boost from a 3"turbo back
i'm still figuring out what everything is ....i just got started friday night......i got my tom's racing tuned n374 ecu to run both rotors so thats a good start....i just want to do some tinkering to get it running nice and smooth ...i'll keep you guys updated
i have a binary disassembler so hopefully that will help me figure out some of the definitions

once i get my hands on a n370 ecu i can read the eprom and compare the .bin to the stock n374 ecu and that'll put an end to whats actually different between the 2
and find out why it won't fire the rear rotor in LHD cars

I can box mine up and ship it out to you. I'd love to contribute to your project. Ideally you're probably wanting an N370 in perfect working condition, BUT if you think mine with fried MOP circuits would suit you just let me know.

If you can figure it out I'll be paying you to mod my N370. I've got 3" exhaust and will eventually be needing, at the very least, some mild engine management.

Oh and I tossed you a PM about your wbo2..didn't want the thread to get off topic.

I FOUND THE CODE THAT KEEPS A N374 FROM RUNNING THE REAR ROTOR!!!
by switching line 666C value to 00 will make the n374 work.
i burned a copy of my toms ecu bin with only that changed....i left the fuel and boost cut alone and it runs perfect...
if i could find an adequate binary disassembler or a reverse engineering program
but this proves theres a signal the jdm ecu needs to see to work properly
on my toms ecu the value was 96 and on the stock n374 its 87...switchin it to 0 allows the ecu to fire the injectors on the rear rotor???
I've got it running nice on the toms racing n374 with only that one line of code changed

anyone interested in buyin a chips with the stock n374 but the fuel and boost cut removed

this is alot safer alternative to buying a FBCD because the FBCD only tricks the ecu into thinking its running lower boost than it actually is....so you may not be getting the proper fuel and timing you should be for the level of boost you are at.. and the higher you go above that set level the more the timing and fuel will be out
with this chip it just raises the fuel and boost cut out of reach of the normal running parameters so you will never run the risk of it comming on and you will be getting the correct amount of fuel and timing

when i get the programs i need it will be alot better but for now this is the only 100% proven to work chip i have

like i said when i get the programs i need it will be alot better, and i can actually start adjusting fuel and timing for individual set ups but for now...for stock set ups i could sell people (low cost) the n374 with the fuel and boost cut eliminated, and the knight sport chip with changes made to the fuel and timing curves....it should work well with a stock set up running the extra boost from a 3" turbo back

So could you take my n351 from my n/a a burn like say the n374 or n370 to it? just kind of curious, I may be getting an n374 also so I may need to get one of these chips that you've been talking about anyway if the rear rotor doesn't go.

the ecu circuitry is different,the chips won't work in a n/a ecu

Another worthy addition is to remove the limp mode function when a mop code is triggered.

I'm trying to send you a PM, but I don't have 3 messages yet.

I think I can help you out :)

you should get a chip emulator so you can do things in realtime on your car im curious if this can be done to an n/a s5 comp

i did it with my honda lol easy to do

Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but does anybody have more info on this? I'm trying to help a friend out with his boost cut issues, but I don't have anything to compare against.

How big is the fuel/boost cut map? What's the memory address for the maps? What are the stock values?

I think FC3Sdrift is one of the only people to mess with this kind of stuff around here. Among GM, Honda, and Nissan owners it is pretty big (not to mention STi/Evo with reflashable ECU).

The Rtek guys figured it all out (full Rtek 2.1 is available for N374/N370), but they're not talking for obvious reasons. Looking back at this thread, I didn't even realize he was using a Burn1. I presume he took a Knightsports N374 and this Tom's Racing ECU which were already converted to EPROM. I guess a regular N370 does not have an EPROM and needs to be converted just like people do on P28 Honda ECU's.

this is interesting.. i got a rtek 1.5 and still got my stock n370 chip.. if i could get one of those eprom buners, i wouldnt mind comparing the hex code between the 2 ..

This is what the guy was using (Burn 2 is newer version of Burn 1)

http://support.moates.net/2008/08/30/burn2/

Moates is a big name in chip tuning. They are especially big for OBD 1 GM's.

Bringing from the past:

Did you perhaps figure out where the factor or quantifier for the secondary injector size is?