S5 coolant capacity question, n/a vs. T2
 

Per the manual, the S5 n/a has 7.7 quarts of coolant capacity and the T2 has 9.2 quarts. Both models use the same aftermarket replacement units - were there two different radiators from the factory? If so, are the aftermarket radiators based on the higher capacity T2 units? If not, where is the extra coolant capacity? I just can't see the turbo housing and extra hose(s) holding that amount of coolant. Does the T2 have a larger overflow reservoir bottle?

the turbo and manifold does carry a lot of fluids. Well, put it this way, 1.5 quart is NOT all that much.

I just bought two gallons of coolant , which is 8 quarts. It was expensive too, looks like I might just add some distilled water to to it off. $26 per gallon is rediculous for the Mazda fl22.

Or is it a bad idea to dilute it since they engineered it for 55% coolant 45% water and it says right on it do not add water. $75 bucks for coolant if I get another ughhh.

Edit - I think ill just add distilled water for the last 1.2 quarts

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dude, just use Peak Global Anti-Freeze, it's BETTER than FL22 in everyway and it's much cheaper, and easier to get.

How do you figure, do you have any proof to justify your statement, if you don't its an opinion not a fact.

I read the fsm and it states you need nowhere near 55% coolant in fact for 3 degrees Fahrenheit and up only 35% coolant is needed.

Edit - I feel like I should be getting something that is 100% coolant to more easily make a 35%coolant 65% water dilution

Where can I get concentrated version of peak global lifetime? Does it have any additives?

The fact that its amber in color and not green kind of worries me

You don't need expensive coolant from dealers. When you step into a dealership parts store, get ready to bend over. There are many alternatives out there that are equally as good. As for coolant, I'd use OAT or HOAT coolants such as the Zerex G05 or Zerex Asian coolant that are low or little 2EHA and sulfates. Long life coolants are usually low 2EHA and no silicates. Silicates break down in about 2 years so if you have not changed youre coolant in that time , you'll be seeing white residue around coolant passages / radiatopr caps etc. That white residue are silicates that have chemically broken down.
High 2EHA coolants are known to be not gasket/ o-ring friendly.
Each of OAT and HOAT has it's own inhibitor, silicates not being one of them.

If you look at Mazda, Toyota or any European /Japanese coolants, they aren't 2EHA.
Prestone regular coolant (non extended life) uses 2EHA and silicates) while long life coolants are 2EHA free but uses carboxylate not no silicates.
Asian carmakers use no 2EHA and no silicates in their coolants. All are OAT or HOAT and uses phosphates to protect aluminum.

I admit to not changing coolant every 1-2 years. I saw what it does to coolant passages in the housings. Not hard substance but white chalky crud caked up in some areas.

Yes. Peak Global has no silicates and no 2EHA.
Not sure what inhibitors it uses. ...not phosphates.

Found this on thread on rx8club -

My point about Peak Global is that since they don't list exactly what organic acid(s) they use on their label or MSDS, it could be sebacic acid (sebacates), which was 50% of the organic acid "forumula" of the original Dexcool.

Based on that I may get the zerex coolant, this decision is giving me a headache.

I didn't mean this to turn into another "which type of coolant to use" debate. I was just wondering about the different capacity rating of the T2 vs. the n/a. Apparently it is due to the turbo, the housing and any additional hose(s) that come with the setup.

Now my $0.02 on which coolant I would recommend to use. I am going with Zerex G-05. As noted before it is a low-silicate, low PH, non-phosphate, HOAT and non-2HEA coolant that is widely available and less expensive than the Mazda/Ford FL22 coolant. Is it better than the Ford/Mazda FL22 - not sure, but if you want to debate that issue then you should go over to Bobistheoilguy.com and do some research.

I might just keep my fl22 I'm just trying to figure out what ratio to use and how ill get there.

Was thinking anywhere from 35% coolant to 50%, ideally like 40%

Example -
35% coolant of 9.2 quarts = 3.22 quarts (3 quarts 7.04 fluid ounces) which would be easy to do just get a one quart container and something you can measure ounces in.

Example -

for turbo
35% coolant of 9.2 quarts = 3.22 quarts
For NA 35% coolant of 7.7 quarts = 2.695 quarts


Depending on if your coolant is pre diluted or not makes it easier.

For 100% coolant you just do -

Amount of coolant in quarts 7.7 for your NA * percent of coolant desired put as a decimal (.5 for 50%) = 3.85

You can go farher and break that .85 in to ounces do u can put an exact amount in by taking that and doing.
.85 * 32 (amount of ounces in a quart)= 27.2 oz

Now just find a few things to measure that 27 oz in and you're golden.

For pre diluted its more complicated.

The math theory is the same but since you don't have 100% coolant you'll have to see exactly how much coolant you want say 35% again since we used it earlier, and say you have fl-22 which is 55% coolant 45% water.

You'll still want 2.695 qts pure coolant , same as earlier.

4 * .55 = 2.2 so one gallon has 2.2 , now all you need is .495 of a quart.

.9 * . 55 = . 495 ( so you need .9 of a quart more fl22)

.9 * 32 = 28.8 ozs (that much more fl22)

You've now put in 4.9 quarts of your 7.7

You now need 2.8 quarts if distilled water. Simply buy a gallon of it and top it off.

Done.

Per the picture of the FL22 bottle label that you posted, it is already pre-diluted 55/45 so you just pour the fluid into the engine cooling system straight out of the bottle and do NOT add any more distilled water.

55% is way more coolant than you need.

If you're above 3 degrees Fahrenheit only 35% is needed as per fsm.

55% is good for -40 degrees and up, ill never be in that cold of temps, fl22 says its freezing point is -47f boiling point 270f.

I don't plan on ever letting my car get much hotter than 200 with Max of say 210ish

I've got a digital temp gauge so I can keep an eye on it.

My old engine had some of that white, crusty silicate crust shit in it when it got taken apart. It wasn't that bad, but personally, I don't want any crusty shit in my cooling system.

What causes that? I've spent hours researching coolant threads

Silicates. I don't think the previous owner EVER changed the coolant in the 110,000 miles he owned it, thus instead of white chalk, I had hard crust. If he did, he probably didn't use distilled water either.

The FL22 I got was expensive but it should work great.

I keep looking over things and I'm pretty sure ill just use what I bought, making the right mixture will be a pain though.

i'd use what you have. the mixture is easy though. pour both bottles into car, then top off with something you find appropriate, i would use water, but im sure that's too easy :)

That'd give me 48% coolant 52% water Im lead to believe you can use much water and it cools faster than coolant. Correct me if I am wrong.

sure water does work better, but there is so little difference between 50/50 and 45/55 that it doesn't matter.

What if it was 35% coolant 65% water

i still don't think you'd notice a difference

Do you know anything about this fl-22 stuff? It says not to add water but I believe that's because you're shortening the coolants life by adding water and there's no other bad effects.

I guess it'd be easiest to just top off with distilled water if using more water makes no difference, I just want to run as cool as possible. I don't plan on using water wetter or anything like that BS

i think they don't want you adding water because its prediluted, but otherwise i don't really know much about it.

it does work though, the Rx8 engines come apart looking new in the water jackets, and the Rx7 engines are ALWAYS rusty