S4 belts in a S5
 

Hopefully someone knows the definetive answer to this.

Does anyone know if the S4 seat belts fit in a S5 chassis. As far as bolting up in the proper locations and fitting behind the trim pieces and what not.

I hate power seat belts and I want regular seat belts. Plus one of mine is shot anyways. What parts do I need to do it correctly? Like can I use the S5 reciever still at the floor side of the trans tunnel and just get the harness with the two retractors on the pillar. Will the retractor fit in the location that housed the power retractor and the other retractor fit where the current lap belt retractor is in the side sill.

Thanks in advance to anyone with the knowledge!

To do this correctly with all the interior trim looking right, you need more parts than you might think. There was a detailed thread on this about a year ago and it might be worth doing some searching. Obviously you will need the interior A and B-pillar trim plus the headliner from a non-mouse belt car because the headliner in a US S5 car is narrower than the headliner in a US S4 car. You'll also need all the headliner garnish panels, IIRC.

If you want black interior parts you can either paint/dye stuff from a US S4 car or you can try to source black interior stuff from Canada where S5 cars did not have mouse belts. I was considering doing this on my old S5 GTU and gave up, but it can be done.

Yes, it can be done but requires some fiddling.

Do NOT replace the A-pillar trim (and be very careful with your originals)...S4 stuff will not work. S4 B-pillar trim will not work either- you must reuse your S5 panels.
I don't know if Canadian S5 panels will fit- there were none available for me to try. If by chance you can find some (and they work), be aware that you'll also need the headliner...your stock liner is cut differently to accommodate the mousetracks and the smaller A-pillar trim will leave a gap.

All of the necessary holes, capture nuts, etc. are in place already.
You can simply bolt the inertial reel into the spot where the original mouse motor was.
The floor mount will bolt in as well- but you'll have a gap in the carpet.
It's not noticeable when the seat is in place.

The threaded insert for the upper (shoulder) pivot ring is present but you'll have to drill a hole in the top B-pillar trim for the bolt.
You will also have to trim the top edge of the lower B-pillar panel so the belt can exit from behind the panel on it's way to the upper exterior mount.
This is the most finicky part of the job and will necessitate many trial fits. You don't really need to cut much, just enough so the belt will retract freely. Cut just a little at first and then more as needed till it's right. This area is visible, so be neat...

Finally, you will want to replace the receiver on the trans tunnel with the manual version. The auto unit puts the belt over your thighs instead of your lap- the manual part is shorter and repositions the belt properly.
This is a direct replacement, even the belt warning light wiring is the same.

Removing the reels positioned below the center console will leave a gap uncovered by carpet when the console is replaced. I covered this are with a swath of carpet from a junk car...it ain't perfect but not really glaringly obvious either.

Your A-pillar trim originally mounts to the mousetrack- which you've now removed.
My unbroken passenger side stays in place with just the two screws that are left (one at the top of the windshield and one all the way at the back by the B-pillar).
My driver's side was already broken and I have yet to find a replacement (someday, Jeebus willing!).

The mechanics of this conversion are not terribly difficult- figure on a day to do it.
You do have to modify more than you might think but it's relatively simple work.

Make your life easy and remove the seats first, then start at the center console and work your way out. If you've removed the plastic trim panels before you'll have no surprises in store.
If not, well, good luck.

I'm glad I did mine.

You could just get your seatbelt replaced at Mazda for free even though its been done before. One of mine are broken too but I'd rather just give it to a dealer. I don't think they're that annoying if they work right.

while i woudl prefer manual belts, the free approach is cheap :)