rx7 stock turbo question.....
 

91 S5 N/A to Turbo II conversion:

i have replaced everything on my car with S5TII parts including the ECU N370. everything under the hood is stock TII parts.

my question is:

since my car wont run for the life of it except when it wants to......... would too much play in the turbo cause it not to run? like sucking exhaust into the induction? it leaks oil a little bit too. i figure that rebuilding the turbo might help it, but i want to know if this could be a main cause of a non running turbo rx7?

it has ALOT of play.....like around 1/4" to 3/8" play in the shaft, and when i finally get the car started, you can hear the scroll hitting both exhaust and induction housings.

Bad turbo will still let the motor run. You are using the n/a harness right?

yes, i am using the n/a harness.

i also have the US version TII harness on its way as well.

What do you mean idles when it wants to. How well does it run when its running.?

it does not run like it should when it idles. it acts kinda boggy and putts alot while my foot holds the pedal for it to idle. then when i let off of the pedal, it stalls and i cant get it to start back up. it acts like it is flooded.
tps?
maf?
omp?
not the coils, they both work. fuel pump works, all relays work.

it seems like it is having an issue with fuel delivery. it is getting spark, the timing is dead on, no vacuum leaks, all sensors work fine.

which fuel injector clips go where? wire colors i mean....

Always start with compression. After that, check vacuum about 80 times over. Then, verify all voltages/resistances/etc at the ECU.

That'll solve about 97% of all problems.

i have a stock setup TII. where would be the most common place that there might be an air/vacuum leak?

Vacuum hoses incorrectly plugged in/cracked/split/faulty check valves. Also the TID is another likely cuplrit (very likely!).

A common way to test vacuum leaks it to play around with pushing the AFM door open by hand ever so slightly once the cars running and seeing if you can get it to smoothen out, as it'll tell the ECU to compensate for any air leaking past. That'll give you a good idea if it's a vacuum leak if it runs better in that scenario.

TID???

turbo inlet duct?

as for the vaccum hoses......

the nipples on the turbo upper intake, there are 3 in front, 3 in back, and 1 on side. the only things i have to run to the intake for vaccum are fuel pressure regulator, boost sensor, and oil metering pump lines.

where should i route my vacuum lines to?

You should have the primary injector bleed in there too. You can run that off one of the small nipples in the back of the manifold.
For FPR, use the the lower manifold. You'll have to remove the upper manifold to get to it.

Boost pressure you can use the nipple on the side. This is the stock location.

OMP line uses the bigger nipple in the rear. A larger hose connects to the spider and splits into 4 smaller hoses for each injector.

These sources are all the stock locations.

primary injector bleed?

;) Yes.
Here, a picture is worth one thousand words:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...onsremoval.jpg

sounds like a leak between the MAF and the turbo.

well guys, i think this is sounding more and more like my vacuum lines are routed wrong and also a vacuum leak. this weekend i am going to tear down the engine to the block and clean up everything and make sure that everything is sealed up properly nice and tight. also, i am going to route my vacuum lines exactly like the diagram shown above, maybe this will help alot....who knows. trial and error, i guess.