sounds like a good idea to me :) i usually run Techron into my gas tank, but not all the time, i think ill try this tomorrow

Would using MMO instead of the carb cleaner be a better idea?

hey why not try WD-40 well your at it or oxy-clean

matezz noticed about 5% increase after using carb cleaner, i`m gonna try it tonight on my engine..

Hey higgi, as soon as you have results, please let me know, and tell me exactly what you did :D

Has anyone who's tried this pulled their plugs afterwards to see if they're cleaned up?

- JB

I was about to buy som berryman's carb cleaner and a bud of mine at Napa said not to use it, it would eat my sensors etc.., but to use this other kind (dont have w/ me). It's made by Sea Foam(?). It's a carb cleaner too, but componet friendly.

A colleague of mine used to be in the petroleum business told me that the chevron cleaner was the strongest stuff over the counter. But if you want to keep everything cleaner, try running MMO in gas and oil. Thats good $hit.

what's MMO?

Marvel Mystery Oil

Has anyone tried weasel piss?

no, but I did piss in the radiator once...

Has anyone tried Amsoil powerfoam? I read about using it to decarbon engines on ATkins rotary web site.

i bought some valvoline synthetic carb cleaner today, ran the whole can through the engine, it idles absolutely perfect now, it was bouncing before, now its smooth as hell, now i just gotta see how it helped my high end :D:D yea i pulled my plugs afterward, they looked great, but then again i replaced them 2 days ago lol

There ya go!!... Enough with the flames now- Results speak for themsleves. What's wrong with being creative?? Heck- this is the way shops do it!
I think carb cleaner is perfect- because it contains lubricants.
Glad it worked well for you!

and the best part, you dont have to wait 24 hours like the ATF trick :D

This sounds like a very bad idea to me. Reasons:

1. carb clener strips the protective oil coating from apex seals and rotor housings
2. carb cleaner strips the lubrication out of EVERYTHING
3. carb cleaner gets into oil
4. carb cleaner ATTACKS rubber...IE o-rings, side seals, etc...bad

Sounds worse than the ATF trick to me.

I'm curious as to how you came up w/ your statement that carb cleaner contains lubricants?

Here is a direct quote from the Valvoline website:

http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...sp?Product=52#

"The advanced synthetic cleaners found in SynPower Carb, Choke & Throttle Body Cleaner help to restore engine efficiency and reduce gasoline consumption by quickly dissolving gum, varnish, sludge, grease, dirt and carbon deposits from carburetor throats, chokes and PCV valves. They also free sticky PCV valves, stuck heat risers and throttle plates and sealing area linkages.

No other product cleans better or faster
Effectively cleans throttle plates on today's fuel injected engines
Eliminates hesitation, smoothes rough idle, restores maximum power
Removes gum, varnish, sludge and carbon deposits instantly
Contains no chlorinated solvents
Meets current low VOC regulations
Unique "spray in any direction" nozzle stays attached preventing loss "

There is NOT one mention that the product (a cleaner) contains lubricants. How can a cleaner contain lubricants? Lubricants lube, while a cleaner cleans. So which is it? Here is an example...take Castrol Super Clean (a cleaner). Spray it on your hand. Notice why it feels a little slick (not from the water). That's because the product is pulling the oils from your skin.

While I am not saying that the method you described does not work, because I have used that method w/ great success on piston engines (my former 240sx). True, the product does virtually break down carbon deposits, however, my concern would be IF the product is too strong and loosens the apex seals. That is after all, quite possible. Just be careful not to use too much of the stuff at one time because since it is a cleaning agent, it can strip the oil and fuel completely off the insides of a rotor housing. I'm not saying that what you're doing does not work, as I have no specific hard core evidence. But, I would just advise you not to use too much at a single time (like a whole can).

Also, you may want to change your plugs after awhile. They may foul over time. Your cat will probably be ok though.

Heck I might try it once I get back first I will use it one little bro's 1st gen mahahahah

>>Has anyone tried weasel piss?

Is that sarcasm or an offer?

>>Heck- this is the way shops do it!

With boingers, sure. With rotaries? This is where I start to hum and haw.

Don't get me wrong. On the one hand, it sounds great. On the other, well, here's my variation on Aaron's post...

If it's in the engine spaces long enough to get into and loosen/break up carbon deposits, isn't it also in the engine spaces long enough to lift the oil from surfaces?
Although we do have our nifty OMP on the case to blast oil right back in there again, while there isn't anything spraying in additional carbon to replace what the CC is removing. :)

A quick fix would be awesome. I would prefer one without an unanswered 'if' hanging off of the end.
This kinda reminds me of a friend's father's comment back when NASA announced its new slogan of, 'Faster, Better, Cheaper." He said, "You can have any two of those things, but never all three."
So it is with NASA, so it is with racing, and maybe it's so with maintenance...

If someone could assure me that the OMP was covering our butts while doing something like this with the CC, I wouldn't have a problem with it. Anyone out there who's familiar with the OMP care to comment?

ttyl,
Amur_

http://home.ptd.net/~lorijf/docandTII.jpg

Sounds interesting. Has anybody tried looking in the leading plug holes to see what the rotors look like before and after? Only thing I'de be worried about is that CC will attack rubber (corner seal inserts and possibly the water jacket o-ring (don't know what its made of). I cleaned up an old rotor with CC and the corner seal inserts just crumbled.

Henrik
87TII

A lot of people are concerened about the carb cleaner stripping the oil- and worried about lack of lubrication. Well, I have to say I guess it depends on the cleaner.
As per the post a few back in which an entire label was stated, I'll do the same with the Motomaster brand CC that I used!! (a few words shortened)

"...is specially formulated to remove gum, varnish, and carbon from the automatic choke, carburetor intake manifold, linkages, valves, and compression rings (equiv. to apex seals). It is designed for all gasoline and diesel engines before and between tune-ups and will not harm catalytic converters. Leaves a lubricating film to protect moving parts. Also ideal for cleaning varnished steel and cast parts...."

OK?

Don't worry about the lube issue.
I guess it is brand dependant though... I know lube is an issue, and as I said earlier, it's why I wouldn't condone using a more powerful cleaner; Brake cleaner- as it has no lube.

Also- about the rubber seals.
They are obviously of the petroleum restistant compsistion- otherwise they wouldn't be used in an engine.
The active ingredients in the type of cleaner I used are Methyl alcohol, Toluene, and Acetone.
The Methyl alcohol won't harm rubber in the slightest, it's just a carrier, and a combustion enhancer.
Toluene and acetone are petroleum distillates, which won't degrade any rubber product that is gasoline(petroluem) resistant.

I don't know how much really needs to be said about this... I suppose it does depend on the brand somewhat.

So- I beleive it's totally safe. It cleans what it's supposed to- very well, and it keeps the apex seals lubricated while it does it. Done.

Dan

i agree with bambam7. different brands work differently. some do have a biult in lube, some dont. be sure and check labels if you are gonna try it out. my question is....where do i spray it in on my T2? i might give it a shot.

Okay, so now two more things... :D

Cleans and lubes, eh? This reminds me of those two-in-one shampoos. Cleans and conditions. How the hell does it manage to do that? Lemme tell ya: they use a wax in it. I had been using this crap (for the convenience) back when it first came out, and then next time I got a haircut my barber asked me wtf I was putting in my hair. Then he explained how Pert Plus and the others 'cheat' by putting this wax-like crap in. Gets the dirt out, leaves the shaft smooth and leaves you looking like a moron. The first clue, which I'd managed to miss completely, was that my hair was about 10 lbs heavier after I'd washed it. :rolleyes:

A product can clean. Or it can lube. How can it do both? Since you were using Motomaster (SureShot was right - weasel piss after all) I'd say that it was either doing only one job or neither - in this case, it sounds like it did clean up the chambers a bit. Ever tried their belt dressing (or anything else of theirs?) Might as well use 7Up on your belts for all the good it does. Might as well buy your automotive supplies at a dollar store or a 7-Eleven.

If I was looking for the mildest CC to use for this, Motomaster would be my first choice. Taco Bell's hot sauce would be my 2nd. ;D

Not slaggin' you here, BB7, btw. Don't take it the wrong way. :)

Henrik's comment about CC nuking corner seals also concerns me... I can't afford to rebuild my 13B now or anytime soon, so I want to discuss this as much as possible before taking the dive, y'know? :)

ttyl,
Amur_

well the Valvoline synthetic cleaner didnt hurt my engine, still starts, redlined it several times, idles perfect, thats all i can say, it didnt hurt mine *knocks on wood just in case* after all my engine is almost at 180k anyways lol, but im running premix in my gas with the OMP still working also, so i had double lubrication just in case :)