Royal Purple Synthetic Lubricants, Anyone tried?
 

I saw this on racing beat and racing beat is popular for mazda product and Rx7. I was wondering how good are these engine oil than the other ones out there.

thanks guys and girls. :git:

Supposedly RP is better. I have talked to people that swear by it and say the engine runs smoother. For my money, I am going to continue to use Castrol GTX 20-50 because it works great and is 1/4 the price of royal purple. If you want to spend $40+ dollars on oil every oil change then knock yourself out, but I just don't think its worth the money.

i have royal purple in my differential since i couldn't get Redline Gear Oil when i needed it. on cold days you notice the difference in just how thick it is when cold (trait of Royal Purple, i was told), but works very well when at operating temps. if i have the money, i may put RP into my tranny instead of Redline.

Well, I'm going to change my oil myself this time. About how many quats do we put in to our engine? im newby lol.

RP for diff and tranny lube is a different story. I would only use Redline or RP in those. I personally use Redline MT-90 and whatever the diff lube is and it works great. Very positive feel but not overly stiff.

sorry for the newb-ness,

Is there no down side to run 20w50? Are you also saying that the synthetic isnt harmful? I know Mazda ran it in their race rotarys, but they had a short life expectantcy.

I'd rather go with the Cusco strut tower bar...


-Ted

Ditto. Just think of the money you would save using regular oil.

As for using synthetics, there are only a few that are ok to use in a rotary engine. Most synths have very has ash content when burned, which causes major carbon buildup. Ther few exceptions are RP, AMSOil, and I have heard rumors that Mobile1 is ok, but I can't be sure. I another thread on the top page someone said something about ELF oil being OK as well.
Still, I would stick with good old dino juice.

I've been running RP for years.. I can't say its better than amsoil. but they are the only ones I use period.. yeah the price is rich... but I get it at 6 bucks a quart..

I put RP in my transmission... the 1st to 2nd shift and 2nd to 3rd high-RPM shifts are smoother now. Also, the transmission doesn't got nearly as hot as it used to.

I always love seeing blatantly wrong info from people being posted in regards to oils. Ignorance is bliss I guess. RP is a very nice oil and is perfectly safe to use in rotaries. Most people haven't done ANY homework when it comes to oils so most don't understand what makes oils different from each other. Can anyone here tell me what makes a synthetic oil "synthetic"? I know it of course but I want the naysayers to tell me and then go into a dissertation as to why they aren't safe. Please site more than "Mazda says so". In regards to that, I've met Yamaguchi-san a couple of times. He's just about the highest person in the world to talk to when it comes to rotaries. I know why Mazda says what they do about oils since I've asked him. I assure you that I still use synthetics, specifically RP. Bascially Mazda is fully aware that people are morons so it's safe to just make statements that tell them what to do and what not to even if it is a blanket statement with many exceptions. If you truly care about your engine, a few more bucks for a much better oil isn't much of a concern. Price is only a concern in the absense of quality. Unfortunately there is far less attention paid to quality by most people here which explains everything. The strut tower brace won't do anything to protect your engine.

BTW: A good syntetic burns CLEANER than conventionals. The ash content statement is a common misconception that sadly gets passed around.

But does it really protect the engine that much better than GTX? I know its safe to use and all that stuff, I just don't know if its enough better to justify switching.

I've had no problems with Mobil1 15w50 synthetic. I've actually noticed that it stays cleaner than the conventional Castrol. One thing I haven't seen mentioned on this thread is that even if you run a synthetic that claims it is good for 15000 miles, you should change it every 2-3k. Gas contamination!

They sell RP at my local Walmart now, I was happy to see that. It's around $6-7 a quart.

They sell RP at O'reilly's here, but its more like 7-8 bucks a quart.

How many quatz for every oil change? thanks peoples

13b = 5quarts
i for one deffinately dont care paying more when it comes to my engine . i want only the best for my 13b. i run RP AND strut tower bars =)

If it really is THAT much better, then I could see paying it. Its just that I haven't heard any good reason to shell out the extra bucks when GTX works quite well. Just for the hell of it I'm probably going to try it once, but not until I get my car running well.

Castrol GTX 20w50? sideways7

Im a student at WyoTech in West Sacramento and actually just had a presentation from a certain Pat so and so. A Royal Purple representative. He had entire demo to prove that Royal Purple is the shit. He brought in an entire set up to prove the different abilities of oils. he hooked up an Electric motor to a bearing race with a small pan under it for oils. The race would run with motor on and turn another small bearing being anchored down by weights against the larger bearing. Connected to the electric motor was a amps gauge to read the output of the motor. He first started off with Chevron 10w-30 which quickly seized after only 2 additional weights were applied. He then added some Royal Purple to the Chevron and the seizing ceased. A student in class brought in some Mobile1 to put up to the test and even the Mobil Failed. I was surprised as hell myself. But yeah the shits legit. I asked the guy later about Rotary engines. He said that they had sponsored race car with the oil injection removed and some 2 stroke oil put in gas tank (Royal Purple of course!) Yeah turns out they even make gun oil so there doin something right

So you have no problems accepting that synthetic fluids protect your transmission and differential better than conventional oil, and don't mind paying twice as much for it, yet you are in such disbelief that synthetic oils offer better protection for your engine? Forgive me if the logic is lost on me.

I read Mazda recomends synthetic for RX-8's or says it wont do any damage but doesn't recomend to use it for RX-7's that the RX-8's engine burns it differently or something?

The oil is supposed to lube the rotors or w/e and then be burned off, if its not burning off right then it might not lube right, right?

Wrong.

heh

So why would mazda lie?

Read rotary god's post.

The cheap synthetics are worse for rotary engines. Mazda can't tell you which brands to use and which brands not to use.

ah so a cheap sythentic may do damage but cheap regular oil should be fine.

Is the big buck for good sythentic worth the 2-3k mile change?

First of all, I'm pretty sure the diff and tranny see a lot more abuse than the internals of a rotary engine, but I could be wrong. Its just that from everything I've seen GTX provides plenty of protection for the engine. If I remember right my engine (with 215k miles) was actually OK as far as the bearings go when it was torn down for a rebuild. Sure they weren't great, but they were far from failing and my e-shaft looks good as new. Considering it probably didn't even have oil as good as GTX 20-50 for most of its life, I think that regular oils would be fine.
Don't get me wrong, I agree that RP is better, its just that I don't think its needed in most cases for a rotary engine. That said, if I have a high-dollar rebuild or raced my engine then I will most likely use RP, but for most engines I just think its overkill.

Cheap synthetics do not burn as cleanly as even the cheapest regular oils, so yes, that is true.

I am glad Rotary God is here to set things straight. I read his (and others') posts here and on RX8club when I was "researching" the synthetic vs. dino debate. I am convinced and will be using RP once my engine is broken in. The most convincing arguments are:
* Rotary God's comments on what Yamaguchi told him
* Idemetsu oil used in the 4-rotor is synthetic
* Info on Royal Purple's website re: use of synthetic in rotaries
* Pineapple Racing likes synthetic based on how good the rotor housings look when the engine is torn down for rebuild
* It makes sense that Mazda would issue a blanket statement rather than qualify and disqualify certain oils and open themsevles to a lawsuit

They carry RP at corporate NAPA stores and at Pep Boys.

Would it really protect the housings better? I guess I was only thinking about the bearings and such. Shit, if it really does protect the housings better then I'm all for it. Of course I'm pretty sure I'm just gonna premix anyway from now on. Oh well.

Dont know if this is worthwile of posting in this side of the forum (first gen owner here), but I run RP in engine tranny and diff. Love it, I went from regular ol' Dino oil though, but the car seems happier.

yeah agree.

if you are going to use RP do it because u want to not because of there "dyno" they did.....

sorry if u have seen the video u know what I mean.. they take a car dyno it drain out the engien oi, diff oil and trans oil fill with rp and dyno.. the numbers go up.... OF COURSE THEY WILL they drained used nasty oil... now if they would have drained it did a test with clean fresh reg oil then drained and with rp it would have been a better test

Dave

btw mazda has a writen letter of acknowledgment for ELF synthetic oil in the rotary engine

Tranny and Diff oil lasts a long time. I'm with Sideways7 (actually across the board, because I use Royal Purple in my diff and in the tranny, and Castrol GTX 20w50 in the engine). If you change out your oil every 3000 miles, are you really gaining any benefit to the Royal Purple? Then, is it enough of a benefit to justify the extra $36 every 3 months or 3000 miles? ($8 vs 2 = $6/qt + 1qt to top off)

I also second what the guy above said about cold performance - with the royal purple in the diff, I've found that if I let the car sit a couple of months, the diff will pop in corners for the first 20-30 miles or so.

Castrol GTX 20W50 yeah!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!