rotor oil seal set
 

hey me and my friend are rebuilding his motor and due to a tight budget have got the basic 13b rebuil kit from rotaryaviation. this kit does not come with some of the parts and it does not come with the rotor oil seal set.

now because we will not even be putting new ones in should we even take the old ones out? we are only rebuilding it because the water jacket\ o ring broke of. the motor is in great shape besides that. so what im askin is do we have to take all the oil seal set out and look at them? or can we just leave them be and not risk messing them up or reinstaling them in the wrong place.

thanks for all your help.

If you motor has high miles, 100,000 + you should replace the oil seals. Anything made of rubber and all springs should be replaced. All the apex seals should be measured with a micrometer. If the oil rings and apex seals are within specs, you're saving as lot of money.
I'm not sure where you're getting your parts from but Atkins has really competitive prices and fast shipping. Talk to Kathy. Lately I've seen them auction the parts on Ebay.
Your basic parts should be the basic kit if low miles.
If high miles: basic seal kit, oil seals, side seals, side seal springs, corner seals ,corner springs and apex seals .

it has like 160 km. we already have the kit. it is the kit from rotaryavation. we are moving soon and need the car to run. the kit comes with everything but the side seals, corner seals and rotor iol seal set.

all new springs and apex seals.
what will happin if we dont touch the rotors?

i dont think he expects to keep the car for very long. maby a few more years.

How far are you moving? I've used stop leak in the coolant system to get it to stop the coolant from flowing into the rotor. At first I couldn't start the car without doing the unflood procedure cause it would flood with coolant. Stop leak successfully stopped the coolant from leaking into the rotor until I had time and parts for a rebuild. The seal had broke because the metal on the plate that forms the channel broke (see pics below). You may have this problem and not know it. It requires a new plate to complete your engine rebuild. It may be better for you to move, then rebuild the engine in case you run into unexpected problems. The only side effect was that the rotors compression was still pressurizing the coolant system causing the over flow bottle to stay full.

http://www.mazdatrix.com/faqpics/sidehsgs/watercls.jpg

ya we have already riped the engin apart. and found that exact problem on each side of the intermediot iron. and there was coolant on the iron face. hahahah im guessing thats why the bitch always flooded.
but ya the motor is ready to be rebuild i just havnt touched the rotors. the rebuild kit should be here tomaro.

so what do you guys think i should do? leave the rotors and clean em all up except leave the oil seals the way they are?

or

try to take em out and pu them back in hoping the will seal again.

when ever rebuilding a motor there are certain that you should always do, always clean every peice of the engine, carbon comes off very easily with the spray on oven cleaner. Your apex seal springs, and side seal springs will prolly be buryed in carbon, definatly change all the springs, rubber oil seals. measure the tolerance of your apex, oil and side seals, no point in rebuilding the motor if you are using worn seals its like an extra 300 bucks for the apex, oil, and side seals, these all effect your compression, which ultimatly will show you how "good" the rebuild is.

I say go all out (money permiting) and get that thing running as good as she came off the factory floor

humm well the rebuild kit comes in tomaro.

can i go to mazda and just order the rotor oil seal set seperatly?
anybody know how much it will cost?

You can order a set from www.atkinsrotary.com for cheaper than the dealer will have it...unless you have a mazdaspeed motorsports development account..