Replacing the Pulsation Dampener / Banjo Bolt FC Damper PD S4
 

I was on the 7 club a few days back searching for a good write up on replacing the pulsation dampener and I really didn't hit gold. I found the targa guy's basic explination on the subject but it wasn't too great either. Well, a buddy told me to look in the FSM for instructions how to take the dynamic chamber off, and luckily I found it. To cut the bull, I thought it might be helpful for the members-to-come to explain how to replace the pd and all. It's not going to be as good as a write up, but hell it'll help. Basically, use this website and go to page 55 (56 in adobe). Thats a basic way to remove the dynamic chamber. A few things it doesn't mention are the other vaccum and fuel lines. And other bolts hold the dynamic chamber down besides those- there's 4 nuts on the passenger side that secure the lower intake manifold to the block, one bolt going through the lower intake manifold in the center from the passenger side, and 3 brackets that need to have their bolts loosened for the dynamic chamber to be removed. These are located to the right behind the alternator, and 2 under the upper intake manifold on the drivers side. You have to un-bolt the bypass air control valve to get a rachet over these 2 bolts. Anothr thing you must do is remove the fuel injector clips. Get a flat-head and pop the pins off of the clips. When the clips are off only the pink/orange should be visable. Once thats done and you're sure every wire connection and vaccum line are disconnected, the whole dynamic chamber comes off. IMMEDIATLY after you've removed that, get a small cloth and cover the holes that are now visable on the passenger side. Trust me, you dont want anything getting in there. Now just get 2 wrenches and put one over the pulsation damener, and the other over the fuel line bolt. Hold the fuel line bolt steady and pull the pulsation dampener wrench towards the passenger side (Lefty loosy, righty tighty). Now there ya go. Now get the new pulsation dampener or banjo bolt and put the washer with 4 ribs over the bolt, then put the fuel line bolt through, then the smaller washer. Now just bolt it back up, and installation is the same as removal.

I know this isn't much, but it's gonna help a lotta people.


If it helps, heres some pics of when I replaced my pulsation dampener with a banjo bolt

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...835/banjo1.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...835/banjo2.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...835/banjo3.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...835/banjo4.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...835/banjo5.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...835/banjo6.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...835/banjo7.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...835/banjo8.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...835/banjo9.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...35/banjo10.jpg

Hope it helps...

Great man!! Good idea. Im going to be doing this soon and its great that you put this up! oh and ur in ga! check ur Pm's...

Ive change my PD to a banjo bolt. GJ man but the PD is on the primary fuel rail which is under the TB. The job was a pain, but I had a newer TB and just ended up changing the whole TB while it was apart. Also changed all fuel hoses and a few vacuum hoses to finish off this type of project!! BTW I've had NO ILL EFFECTS running a banjo bolt.

Chris

Nice little write up man.
I'll be picking up a t2 from a friend this week, and this is something i have been looking into doing since he hasn't yet.


Oh and just wondering, What part of gainesvegas are you in? I used to drive a red 88 GTU and worked in gainesville (and currently live in the gainesville/ oakwood are).

-Austin

a few more things I feel like adding...

you'll need 2 23mm wrench's if I still remember correctly
and I tightened the shit out of the banjo bolt
after I got it hand tight. Maybe a little over a full turn.

But don't hold me responsable if you mess anything up :)

Title edited... The S5 uses a welded on PD and you can't replace it with a bolt without replacing the whole fuel rail with an S4 one, so there is no point having S5 in the title of the thread.

(of course why you want to replace the PD with a bolt instead of doing it right, is beyond me- and I am sure some members trying to justify their half assing of the job by using a bolt will post a reply, but that is a whole 'nother thread that need not be discussed here, instead note that a S5 uses an integrated and welded PD on the end of the fuel rail and it should not be confused with the easily replaceable PD on the S4 models.)


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well thank you :)

and I'm not getting into that never-ending argument either,
but I'm happier paying $14 for the bolt that almost $100 for the pd:lol:

all the pics are shot :( damn i need this right now

Whether you choose the banjo bolt or replace the stock unit the UIM needs to come off.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/can-someone-direct-me-611176/