Replaced Master/slave cylinder now won't start
 

So 1990 N/a with rebuilt engine so I put in a new clutch
But didn't replace the pilot bearing/ possibly damaged in the reassembly
So I have clutch chatter but sometimes in neutral but don't have the time
Or equipment to replace pilot bearing witch I know will cause uneven wear
Anyways a couple days ago I heard a funny noise than I lost pressure in
My clutch pedal so I order and replaced master and slave cylinders and replaced
The lines than I bleed the system the clutch still doesn't feel like it has
Completely the pressure I am used to and now the car won't start it will
Not turn over now I need advice cause my mind is everywhere right now
Should I bleed it again till the clutch has pressure to all the way or is there
A sensor I missed, there is one on the slave cylinder is that suppose to
Between the bolt and slave or on transmission and slave need help sorting
This mess..... brain is not thinking right now

Either my brain isn't working either, or I can't understand what you posted.

So you are saying it won't turn over, as in...

Won't Turn over = starter will not rotate engine

or

Will not start = starter turns engine, but will not run.

An epic Wordbrick of Woe.

Keep bleeding the clutch, it doesn't seem to be air-free yet.

The "missing sensor" is actually a condensor that protects the oil pressure gauge circuit.
If that wire grounds out it can damage the gauge but has zero effect on the starter.
If the condensor is just hanging, it can be bolted to any convenient ground point, doesn't have to be the slave cylinder bolt.

There are all sorts of threads about starter circuit issues but since you've just been working in the general area, it's likely you've disturbed the wiring at the starter motor itself.
Worth a look.

Clutch depressed switch. Maybe.

If the starter does not even attempt to turn the engine, I woulkd check starter wiring.

If the pedal feels funny after a lot of bleeding, I would have someone look at the flave push on the clutch fork as you step on the pedal. If it doesn't push, then your hydraulics are still no good.

If the fork has good movement, I would say something in the clutch setup is screwed. throw out, pressure plate, bent fork, or something. What clutch kit did you buy?


Did you see visual leaks on the master, slave cyl, or hose before you came toi the conclusion it was the master?

Sorry for the word maze haha it was late when i type it up
the starter will not turn
and from what i did to me its hard to believe i even touch any of the wires to the starter
but i will look into it
and for the clutch depression switch where would that be located cause i do remember
i think a square black thing sticking out but not so sure if it was on the push rod on the clutch pedal its self but i will look into it
it was the clutch cover and disk from exedy i dont remember if it came with bearing cause it was
awhile but i do have new bearing and fork since i bought to fix the chatter but i need a engine host
or something to support the engine i never pull the transmission but thats for a different conversion
but would like some insider info on that ok back to the problem and no i didnt seen any leaks
i just assumed it was one of those since i lost all pressure in the clutch pedal and people say its a good idea to replace both and my fluid looked dark like engine oil an was kind of thick which yea i know thats bad and should of bleed but i got lazy :/ and for the fork having movement yeah it does maybe an inch when pressing in the clutch
Thanks guys i will check things out and keep yall posted plus its not the best time its raining/ damp
and no garage >:[

oh geez guys you can tell where my brain was yesterday it was clutch depress switch i had it on backwards hahah :/ now i just gotta wait till someone gets here to help me bleed my clutch master
and on another note when the clutch is pushed in from the pedal it goes quiet but when its in engaged its not a chatter but its softer is that the pilot bearing only in neutral? keep yall posted

Good God. First of all, you don't need an engine hoist to remove the transmission and get to your pilot bearing. You only need to be able to get completely under the car and have muscles bigger than limp noodles. Think it through first, though. You'll need a full day, a bearing puller, a slide hammer, and, if you can afford it, I recommend using the opportunity to put in a racing clutch.

That chatter you're describing with the clutch pedal not depressed (and stops when you push the pedal in) tells me that your need to flush your transmission which is a piece of cake compared to removing the transmission. Go to the store and get gearbox oil (NOT ATF) and a 3/4" tube.
Drain the crap from your transmission using the drain plug (on the bottom). Then remove the fill plug (on the side with a square head). Slide the tubing down through your engine bay and stick it in the fill hole. Pour gearbox oil down the tube until it starts overflowing out of the fill hole. Put the fill plug back in and chatter-begone!

Have fun!

I agree...tranny/floor jacks are for pussies.
If you can't lay under the car and benchpress the transmission into position, how will you ever satisfy a real woman, eh boy?

Exactly, streetdriven NAs are notorious as clutch killers...some of 'em don't even make 100k miles.
You'll be wanting the stiffest, gnarliest clutch you can find to keep that beast under control.

Most would suspect pilot/throwout bearing but your oil change idea is much simpler, so why not?
That way when you finally do drop the trans (manually, of course), it'll be fresh, new oil (Ah, I love the smell of gear oil in the morning!) that pours out the back.