removal of air pump
 

Is there a how to around, and is it safe to remove the air pump?

Re: removal of air pump
 

If you have a catalytic converter then you need to keep your air pump. On 89-91 NA's the air pump is used to open the 6 port actuators.

If you remove the air pump you should also remove the air control valve and split air pipe. You'll need block off plates when you remove them. Usually when you remove the air pump you'll want to use a dual alternator pulley to keep the water pump belt from slipping.

Re: Re: removal of air pump
 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by 13BAce
[B]
If you have a catalytic converter then you need to keep your air pump. On 89-91 NA's the air pump is used to open the 6 port actuators.

Its 86-88 N/A's that use the pump, I want to take mine off but I dont want to go through all the trouble of gettin the 5th and 6th port to open.

ok so what kind of exhaust system should i get to remove my air pump?

Re: Re: Re: removal of air pump
 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by ItsNiceToBurnRice
[B]I thought the 86-88's used that back pressure pickup tube?

My friend has a 91 coupe with the RB header/presilencer combo and a RP catback. We kept the air pump on. If you take it off you could just remove the 6 port sleeves and leave the ports open.

Lookie hea, ive done it all, and heard about the rest

"remove sleeves, and leave it open"
-not all that great of an idea, w/o the sleeve in place, there is MORE turbulence and decreased flow thru your ports

"wire open the acutators"
-only good if you do your driving in the 4000-7000 rpm range. below 4000, theres no pick up whatsoever, it will take off like a metro w/ a nice 1.0L 3 cylinder.

"86-88 use the air pump to open acutators"
-nah, the other dude was right about the 89+ using the air pump to actuate the sleeves. the 86-88 uses the Air pipe that runs to the main cat, and the back pressure from that tees off to the nipple on the side of the engine, below the rear 6 port actuator.

Solution, LEAVE the air pump on. the only gains from removing it are:
- 1-2 lb less rotating mass
-10 lbs dead weight lost.
its not really worth the trouble, you can find those gains elsewhere
DOWNSIDE to removal is, water pump belt slippage, higher temps due to slippage, useless 6PI.

what you DO, is leave your shit hooked up, but, poke a hole in the Hose running from the back of the air pump to the ACV. then insert a tee, so that you can use the air pressure from that. run a hose to a Fish tank valve. (get the $7 METAL valve, the plastic will melt under the hood, trust me) then run the hose to the Valve, then another hose exiting the valve to the nipple below the rear 6PI actuator. then, have your friend hold the throttle at 3800/4000 rpm, and adjust the fish tank valve to bleed off or restrict air to the proper setting that makes the actuators open.

ive tried the car w/ the actuators stuck closed, wired open, opening at 2000 rpm, and finally, opening at 4000.

closed- good intown driving, good launch, but falls flat in upper RPM, and barely climbs...it will only CRAWL past 100 mph.
Wired open- BAD intown driving, makes u slip the clutch more, bad launch, i got my car up to 130 down I70 south.
Open less than 4000- pretty doggy, like having them wired open
Open at 4000- Feels GREAT, 1st gear goes by VERY fast, 2nd gear has hard pull, 3rd has good pull and acclerates faster than it feels, 4th like third but less extreme. and in 5th, you could pass someone w/o having to down shift.

hope that helps
chris

not to turn this into yet another 6pi sleevdiscussion,but,while i agree with all your other points,the statemant that you will have less airflow with the sleeves removed,sounds like a bid of b.s...if you have ever looked at the intake runners/ports/etc.,it is very obvious that,yes,even with the sleeves removed,the airflow cant be great[there is that slammi'n in the wall-thing],it is definately better then with the sleeves in.just my .02

mazdaspeed7 removed his sleeves. I've heard that his car makes good power. Somebody may want to ask him for advice.

Hey
 

I removed my sleeves, actuators and rods. After looking at everything by doing it yourself. Its only obvious to take that crap out. I know the operation now and yes it helped my cars top end with my mods together and has more low end then driving with them wired open. So thier ya go. Quit your yappin all of you...

kill me im more confused thatn before

ok thanks guys, see my friend has a 86 na with no air pump
cat back system and new clutch, his 1/4 time is 15.8
so while some say not to take it off his time tells me to do it
but i dont want to mess up my car.

sorry about that, i meant to say Decreased port VELOCITY due to the added turbulence.

Mazdaspeed 7 has removed his sleeves, but hes got EXTENSIVE mods.

trust me, on any 7 thats NOT completely gutted, and destined for a race track life, its best to leave the sleeves in, and operable. you get WAY better driving characteristics. one guy on here had his sleeves smoothed out w/ Teflon.

he bought a stick of Raw TEflon, melted it, and poured it into his sleeves, then bored it out to make a smoother transition thru the ports instead of the air hitting the Wall and making a harsh 90* turn. i suggest you do that if you want the best.

if you want CRAZY airflow heres a To-Do list:

Streetport/brideport
TB mod
remove 6PI sleeves
Header
60mm race pipe,
Apex N1 single
port match upper and lower intake manifolds
convert computer to a VPC (gets rid of the AFM)

now YOU quit yappin

chris