Red lined and all idoit lights came on but car fine
 

Driving on freeway and did a nice 3rd and 4th pull @ WOT to redline for both and then noticed that all lights on idoit panel where lit.

Turned car off while moving and then started agin by engaging in gear.
it did not make a difference.

Drove for another 20min to destination and pull again to high rpm and car seems fine. about 5 min before stop all lights went off but anti-lock light stays on.

Stopped car and turned off for 1 min and then started her up again and all seemed fine but still had anti-lock light on console on ?

Have LM1 installed and it is giving a low voltage / error code 9 i think. but it switches between to 2 screens very very quickly.

Checked engine compartment fuses all ok .
still need to check cabin.

Battery is 3months old and belts are tight.

What other than fuses could it be ?
a Bad Alternator ?
other ideas would be appreciated.

Check your alternator, and alternator belt. It may appear tight right now, but it deflects at high RPM, so if it's worn it will stretch and slip on the pulley.

All idiot lights come on to warn of a failed alternator. If the belt slips for a moment on the pulley, the lights will come on then go back off. This would also explain your low voltage reading.

i have experinced the belt slipping before and it drained my battery which the car slowly died before but then tightened belts and changed battery and all was good.
I do not hear sqealing nor does the power drop off.

Anybody else seen some thing like this ?

and how to test alternator quickly?

How I'd do it: Start the car, unhook the battery. If it dies, the alternator isn't making enough "juice". There probably is a proper way to do it though. :rolleyes:

advance auto parts can test your alternator, the machine puts a load on the car at 2000 rpms and then at idle.
forgot to mention, it could be a bad connection, maybe the battery terminals need a wire brush treatment, and the alternator charging terminal on the back of the alternator.

All the idiot lights on is basically the code for your alt ain't working!

Alternator died or the belt snapped?


-Ted

You car is running because its running on the battery... at least part of the time.... the LM1 is telling you that there is low voltage because there is less than 11.5 volts in yor battery..... (at least thats where my LM-1 starts acting like a retard....)

that happened to me

i was on the highway and did a 3rd gear pull to redline, all idiot lights came on

snapped the belt right off, never even found it

worst half hour drive evar!

Here is my short voltage diagnostic check list...
Engine running, headlights & heater fan on high:
Alternator post to alternator frame = 13.5-14 volts (verifies the alternator output)
alternator post to battery (+) = 0 volts (verifies the primary + wire)
alternator frame to battery (-) = 0 volts (verifies the primary ground)
Turn off the motor, but leave the lights on.
Battery (+) to battery (-) = ~12.5 volts and holds steady. (verifies battery)

i checked again and saw my belt broke.

it was in pieces on the under tray.
well got a new belt
and tighened the alt nut and then the bolt head broken off the thread.
so now removed the alt to tap and replace.

Bought FD alt from silverotor and is on the way.
Also looking into changing battery cables and terminals.

Thank you all for responses.