rebuilding question
 

well ive decided to rebuild my 13b with a couple of buddies and i have a few questions if anyone can help..
first of all.. i blew the motor with a 55shot of n20... i was continually on it (like a moron) ie: i sprayed all the way down a street.. stopped at a stopsign.. made a turn and nailed it again till the next stop sign for a good 5 stops and go's lasting about 20seconds on the longest spray....
anyways i turned the final time and punched it and the car knocked and stalled..

question 1 : what did i blow (possibillities) ? any rotor damage or housing damage do you think ? or just seals / gaskets ? it still starts right up.. smokes slightly and smells of gas.... sometimes idles but its real rough and choppy.. most of the time it stalls though.. but when i hold the rpms up a little it runs smooth.. with a lack of power of course. im just trying to find out if i rebuild it if itll run like new again... i bought it with 65k miles of a single owner old lady so it was daaaaamn new.

question 2 : what does a standard rebuild kit consist of ? what should it come with and what would be extra stuff that would be beneficial but not neccessary or that one wouldnt come with ? ie: apex seals , side seals...... ...... .......

question 3 : anyone done a rebuild that has had a good experience on the timeframe required and the price of a kit ? how bout a good site that has a quality kit ?

i really appreciate all the info and feedback =) helps me alot.. im getting into pulling the motor this weekend becuase id like to have the car running this spring...

eventually seeing that its an N/A id like to invest in a kit from camdensuperchargers
OT: anyone use one or seen one used ?

o another question...
ive heard of some fab'ing required with 3mm apex seals.. would this be neccessary with 2mm stock ones or should they all fit normally ?
thx again

First off, don't be surprised if you see major damage to a rotor housing and rotor. If your motor went out like that, there is a good chance it destroyed a lot of itself. However, if it will hold an idle at all then it might not be terrible. Replace the housing or rotor if there is any apex seal damage.

I would recommend just RacingBeat for the rebuild kit. It might not be the cheapest one, but you get what you pay for. It includes all the parts that need to be replaced. No sense in rebuilding an engine for it to fail a little ways down the line b/c you didnt replace something small. I dont think the kit comes w/ bearings, which you might wanna replace as well. Check their website for an exact list, and expect to pay about $1100 for the kit. More if you engine is damaged from the failure. Timeframe depends on how much time you spend on it really, if your waitin on parts it might take a month. RacingBeat should be good about that though. Its possible to do it in a weekend. You will spend a lot of the time cleaning the parts.

You could get 3mm seals if you really wanted, not necessary though. If the tips of a rotor are damaged then you might be able to re-use the rotor by gettting it machined to take 3mm apex seals.

I wish I could answer your questions but I can't. I do have a question for you:

What type of N2O system were you using? Brand/wet or dry?

I am going to install a 50 wet shot of NOS brand later, but just for the big boys :D Only on a few track runs and to hang with the twin turbo guys.

i was using a 55 shot .. from a zex kit and it was dry...
i dont think it wouldve happened if i wouldnt have gotten carried away so dont let this worry you =/

so as far as major damage goes.. what do i look for ? and if the housing and rotor(s) are stilll good.. what would be accounting for the skipping / hopping of the motor ? rear / apex ? some other seal i havent heard of yet =p

i got a couple brains gonna be working on it and im purchasing a supposedly good video on it... i heard its an easy rebuild comparable to a piston motor and ive heard cleaning is the hard part.....
but id think with a complete rebuild it oughtta run better than it did when i first got it eh ?

Ya I doubt it would have happened if you were a little more cautious with it ;) But I personally just don't like the idea of a dry shot so I am going with a wet one/ I want to hide it pretty much too, think I can do it? I am thinking that I can just enter the intake tube underneath and clean any logos or colors from it and most people won't know the difference since most people don't know shit about rotaries. By the way, did you ever race anybody with the N2O?

Would recommend a Factor Service Manual before you start your rebuild. Check out www.mazdatrix.com for the rotor housing FAQ. It has pictures to help.

yea you can hide it easily...i played around all day and within 6 hours of leisurly working on it i had it installed everything hidden either under the car and tied off or under carpet and ready to go... and i installed it the 4th day i had the car and blew it that night about 3 hrs after installing it =( only car i raced was from a 30 or so roll... a eclipse or talon turbo .. im assuming modded cause he wanted to race perty bad =p anyhow i got whupped... we didnt race far.. probably 30 to 60 or so... but i lost .. /sigh

and yea i have a hayes manual and the factory one and im ordering a video =)
i hope it all works out =) if it does im gonna go for the mid 13's again =p thats my goal... this time w/out NOS

but i do plan on buyin a supercharger if $$ permits down the road...

bump btw

I dont think that you can have a 100% answer to the "hopping or skipping" as you put it until you tear down the engine. Most likely you did hurt something inside, which explains the sudden failure from N2O use. It does not hurt to check compression before you pull the motor just to be sure though. Maybe even if you take off the pre-cat and find little chunks of metal stuck in it (apex seal). I still think though, that if it holds an idle, that it is not terribly damaged inside. In which case, starting it could do more harm, except to check compression if you wanted to do that.
Good luck w/ it though.

Oh ya, you should port the engine while rebuilding it. You can buy some templates from like racing beat or maztech.

I could be wrong, but I do not believe that any rotary shops sell porting templates for any of the 6-port 13Bs.
You just have to use common sense and pictures if you can find them. Most of the work is dont to the center housing.

yikes i hope they do (sell templates) i plan on porting them.. and getting em polished...
btw anyone know of any shops in MI area that do polishing ? intake ect ?
and ummm... what does a full rebuild kit consist of ? /bump