To Rebuild, or not to Rebuild.
 

Hey All,

So I have about $10,000 to play with and I've got two paths that I can go down:

Option 1:
Get my motor built (Streetport)
Run stock turbo @ 12psi
etc. etc. etc.

or

option 2:
Leave motor alone (stock ports) (compression 90 90 90 on all faces on both rotors)
Custom turbo manifold
GT35R or equiv
etc etc etc

Other mentionables are:
Haltech Sprint RE
PBM Coilovers
wheels (1000)
tires (500-800)
Dual Pass Radiator
e-fans
rear camber arm
brakes
etc.

What I'm asking is, should I rebuild my motor and run the stock turbo for now? Or should I leave my motor alone and just bolt on a bunch of greatness to it.
The stock motor has 125,000kms and hasn't been cracked open for all I know. It has no issues/leaks/blowby. Doesn't smoke the wrong amount either. Doesn't overheat...runs smooth as stock...and is stock. Am I playing with fire?

Also, is it possible to build my S5 FC3S with $10,000 looking for 300-350whp or am I dreaming?

Cheers and thanks for the feedback.

Kev

Heh, my goal is 350 WHP for sub 2000, including car.

Haha, yeah I wish I could do it like that. I just don't want to cut any corner or miss anything. The car is just a stock JDM S5 T2 and I'd like to rebuild it the right way. I was just wondering if I can take a chance on the motor and let it blow in a couple years then rebuild it then or if I should bite the bullet and rebuild now then get a bigger turbo setup later on...but I do want around 300-350...possibly 400.

BAHAHA! not with a rotary

Yeah...that's what I figured. Anyway, back on topic.

I would keep your stock motor...get

-BNR stage 4 turbo upgrade
http://gonzaloherrero.com/bnr/index....d=67&Itemid=89

-Front mount intercooler kit
http://www.godspeedperformance.com/1...-p-245871.html

-Rtek 2.0 cpu
http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.ph...age=2&ecu=S4T2

-1000cc X4 fuel injectors
-walbro 255l fuel pump
-130amp alternator
-koyo radiator
-blow off valve
-stage 2 clutch
-msd or jacubs cold spark ignition
-boost controller greddy profec b?
-Racing beat rev 2 exhaust


you should hit 300-350 easy with a good tune.

I already got my clutch, bov, boost controller, 3" DP/full exhaust.

Thanks for the links! I'll be looking at a BNR Stage 4 closely.

You think the stock motor is still good to go for a while still?
I'm pacing through my head the idea of a rebuild for the peace of mind.

You want to build a 300+ hp car with your rotors reading 90 psi on their faces? I don't mean to be rude but have fun with that one.

how much of the work are you planning to do to yourself? $10,000 is plenty to do a rebuild and lots of bolt-on stuff if you're not paying labour

-sean

I wasn't aware that 90psi was low, my apologies. The ONLY work I'm not doing myself is the motor build, as I don't trust myself with seal clearancing and torque specs (don't have the proper tools/room).

Everything else from brakes, suspension, drivetrain, wiring, external motor work, etc. will be done by myself and help from friends.

i say give it a shot. watch this aaroncake's rebuild videohe explains side seal clearancing very well there, just need a dremel or some sort of grinder. torque wrenches (especially the bendy ones as opposed to the clicky ones) aren't too expensive and are something you really should have anyway if you do work on cars.

I just figured if I'm getting it ported and pinned, I might as well get them to rebuild the motor as well. ForceFed Racing (http://forcefedracing.ca/) is who I'll be going to, they are a local Rotary shop here in BC, Canada.

I'm $800 in and I already bought the engine, car and turbo. Now to trade some odds and ends and I should have a full exhaust, including manifold for the header that came with the engine.

I still need to source injectors, engine management,
oil lines and figure out how to cool it all. Trust me, I'm an engineer.

Sounds like damn good money managing.

Just got an email back from ForceFed, and apparently $4000 can get me a lot!

That being said if your goal is anything over 400whp you will be needing to dowel it which is + 500$.

From the Email:

To build your engine with all new MAZDA components and fd3s oil system you are looking at around 3500 this includes our stage 4 street port which we aircare with no issues. This engine would be capable of continuous engine rpm(road race and drift) of 8500rpm and max 9000rpm. This is with a light flywheel and some s6 rotors.

Also I have a couple of used Microtech lt10s that are available with harness for 750$. Just out of cars that have gone to 20b's or from crashed cars etc. All units are warrantied for 3 months.