rear camber adj problem
 

Hey guys, I just installed my rear end today with my delrin diff and subframe bushings. My only problem is my rear camber adjustment. Ive got the single bar, but my rear end seems so stiff now, I dont think the car would do anything but bend the tab that comes off the subframe.

Ive got the racing beat rear camber adjustment, Mainly because I got a good deal on it. Now it seems impossible to reinstall it after spinning to a length I need it. Even if I had an adjuster that I could adjust on car, I am really wondering if it would do anything.

Anyone else with delrin bushings and single bar rear camber adjustment?

Since the bar is on the driver side, It really looks like it is going to adjust driver side more than passenger side. I have not throw my car on an alignment rack yet though

The delrin would be the problem there, as with stock mounts they'll allow some degree of rotation about the stud, making it a lot easier to adjust.

Yeah, How bad is the binding issue with the 2 individual adjusters? Ive recently put polyurethane rear control arm bushings. I forgot how bad my camber was when it was on the alignment rack last time. I am pretty sure it wasnt past -2, but it was out of factory spec. Even if I got a Mazdatrix adjuster, I think the joints at the ends wouldnt last long at all because of the pressure they would be taking. Ideas?

What spec are most people running on the streets, factory?

i have the rear adjustable camber bar from mazdarix also. But i'm using the stock bushings in the diff ears.

My rear camber and Toe is:
Left~~~~~Right
-1.1~~~~~-1.3
0.20*~~~~~0.18*

Between you me and anyone else that reads this, the guy who aligned my car was a jackass. He told me at fist he couldnt adjust the rear camber because there wasnt a provision. Then i showed him my rear camber bar and he told me, all that was going to do is raise my rear up. why the F**K would a company sell a peice as a rear camber bar if it didnt adjust rear camber? his response "IDK, take it back and get your money back. He claimed you need one on each side to make it even. i got pretty frustrated and told him to just start messing with it. Luckily the other guy that was there was a better people person, and he apologized.

Then afterwards(before my car went on the alignment rack i signed a $69 contract paper) it came out to $79. i was like wtf? i checked the paper i signed, and the $69 had been crossed out and $79 written in. i started asking questions and they said it was because there were after market adjustments to be made. I said F**K That, i signed for $69. and i asked what was all involved before i signed. somehow i knew they would pull that shit on me. Now that i'm looking at my alignment sheet. they actually made a couple specs worse than before. what i mean, is that they werent even on both sides before, but now they are even MORE uneven. for example
Front camber Before:
L~~~R
-2.2~~~-2.3

Front camber After:
L~~~R
-2.0~~~-2.5

WTF?

Now i'm starting to get pissed off. This is the first time i really sat down and checked out this alignment sheet.

the people who did my alignment you ask? Super Autobacs in Stanton off of Beach BLVD

F**k those guys...

Isnt that the place that sells a bunnch of parts, like a parts warehouse sorta deal? Where did you go to get the correct alignment?

The problem is my rear subframe bushigns are delrin also and ther is little to no give on them. I feel like the adj bar will only adjust preload tension on the bar. LOL

While I've not personally experienced any binding from individual adjusters (stock bushings, minimal adjustment to get it even), I've heard of others literally having a control arm seize up on them.

Your running stock rubber bushings, black91?

I think my subframe will give before the camber gets adjusted, haha

Stock bushings in the rear control arms and subframe, I did the fronts with poly, but decided against doing the rear due to the effort involved and the problems associated with it.

Yeah, I really didn't notice untill now, the single adjuster will not do. I either wont adjust my camber much, or go rubber and individual adjustment. Ive got a dailey driver. I might just not deal with the problem, and if I get more money, go with spherical bearings, but I really dont want to pay those outrageous prices. I'm a DIYer, so I might have to measure everythign out and figure if it works, even if trail and error costs me more!!!

So for now, I dont think I will have camber adjustment. Do you guys think if I were to get a Mazdatrix adjuster, it would wear out the mounting tab of the bearings? It really seems like that to me, but I am a lil new on it

AWR sells a set of individual adjusters as well. Check them out.

What problems are associated with poly bushings in the rear?

they can bind because u are basically twisting the outter bushing when u change the length on the length inner connection. It changes camber, but it can screw up the movement.

That is why people go with spherical bearings

The issue is due to the twisting, as mentionned, which is compounded by stiffer than stock bushings, which won't twist as easily, making the problem worse.

One thing to keep in mind, the spherical bearings aren't meant to work with the stock cam bolts for tow adjustment, you'd need to put a sleeve over the bolt or somthing like that.

So if I don't have the/a camber adjuster, is it still a problem putting in poly (Energy Suspension) bushings?

Its the individual adjusters that is the main problem. With individual adjusters , rubber bushings or the spherical bearings are recomended. If you got the single bar adjustment, it wont cause rear control arms to bind.

My rear subframe, front diff, and rear diff mounts are really still so the single bar adjustment doesnt have enough give to travel. That is where my problem is

So I'm good to put them on because I have no adjustment bars?

yeah, pretty much. You might want adjustable camber in the future though

BTW, anyone know where to get rubber rear control arm bushings? I tried searching mazdatrix and only came up with the delrin bushings

Mazda should have the stock rubber bushing for the control arms, shouldn't they?

Does anyone know if there is a mazda competition one that is made of rubber?