Real Wierd SH-T.
 

well i bought the car last week and it ran damn good. but ocasssionally my starter wont work. itll click but the car wont turn over... when it doesnt sometimes the engine dies when i take my foot off the gas and it drops below 1,000rpm or so..
and the car has a real rough idle once i get it on. like i drove it from long beach without problem. I have a sneaking suspicion that my Throttle cable isnt attached correctly or the dashpot is mest up.. ugh...

VAC leak? Is the car stock?

vac leak ...

The vehicle is DEFINITELY NOT stock.,. all emissions removed and block off plates installed. Full exhaust w/silencer... nice and noisy but something else peculiar happened it seems the e brake has locked... like the handle moves but barely and the rear brakes are locked....

ack the frustration of this car hurts.
i only got to drive her once. only felt the scream of boost from Long beach to San Diego... but in the week ive owned her and i already put more money in it than i did in the Whole year of owning my NA... and i drove the hell out of that NA

but ill tell you as soon as i saw this car i was in love.

ANd money talks!

This sounds like multiple problems.

A starter that sometimes won't engage:
Faulty/dirty ignition switch.
Faulty clutch interlock switch.
Connection/corrosion problem in the battery-starter, battery-ground, or starter-ground cables.
A worn out starter.

Roraries make good power but they don't have much low end torque. That makes idle control complicated.
Half the stuff on top of the motor is emissions, the other half is idle control.
As was said above, a vac leak(s) is the most likely problem.

I'm having a similar issue and I'd like it if someone could point me to where I can learn how to clean/repair the two items above ^^^.

CRC makes a spray contact cleaner/lube called "2-26"
Home Depot has it in the electrical section.

I jumpered my clutch switch and cleaned the ignition switch.

http://208.62.166.66:82/guest/pics/9...ig-switch0.JPG
http://208.62.166.66:82/guest/pics/9...ig-switch1.JPG
http://208.62.166.66:82/guest/pics/9...ig-switch2.JPG

It's more likely the last 2 options he listed. But, it's good info to know none-the-less.

I know, but in my particular case I've replaced the battery, it's charged and the alt's good and charges well. I checked my power and ground lines and replaced the starter, the starter is only about 6 weeks old and I'm still having intermittent problems starting the bugger. So yes, it's good stuff to know regardless but it looks like I should be doing these things while I wait for another starter to come in in case the starter really isn't the problem (and it couldn't hurt).

I never did get my clutch pedal interlock switch to work reliably. That's why I jumpered it.

Hold the key in start, then push the clutch pedal in & out to test it.

well, when I go to start it I always hear a distinct click from somewhere under me. I figure it's the starter solenoid, but could I be wrong? if it is the solenoid then I would think the starter is in fact the problem.

one, does it crank over slowly when you do get it to crank?
2, does it sound like its on 1 rotor at this time?

it never cranks slow, only one of three things:
1)Cranks fast
2)Cranks only slightly less fast
3)Doesn't crank at all

both speeds should be sufficient to start the motor.

but again, always clicks. What would it sound like if it were only firing on one rotor? I also know my compression is between 80 and 85 psi for ALL faces, meaning that at least it's even wear, and my plugs and wires are 'new'. Probably less than 1000 miles on them. The battery, alternator, and starter are all also new within two months and I've tested them all as well, except with a starter it's difficult to test for a dead spot. So it's tested good, but regardless the car won't start once in a while. It's also probably not heat soak, I don't seem to have exhaust leaks (and the pipes aren't terribly close to the starter), and I've had this problem once when trying to start in the morning. Only after checking my lines and fiddling with them for two hours did it start by chance basically without any real change. At that point I suspected it might be a dirty solenoid terminal, but the last time it wouldn't start I messed with that connection several times to no avail. It did roll start very easily and the starter happened to engage after I popped the clutch.

bad starter solenoid, click with no response from the starter is a common symptom.
Anyways, if it cranks then the starter isn't bad, just the solenoid.
Get a new Starter or rebuild the solenoid.

like I said it's new, so it's being replaced under warranty. strange thing is, the new one they got in last week had the right part number on it and they looked identical except the bolt pattern was different. idk how that happened, but it means I have to wait another 3 days from now to get another shot at replacing my starter, and I'm gone all weekend. sigh.

ive noticed since my car got back from the shop it is a lot quieter
almost like its down on power... im not sure but i thought the oil might be too viscous cuz my mechanic put `15w40 in it(which he told me LATER) so i got it home and changed the oil and filter... and VOILA!! it turns and runs. but definitely... its quieter through the exhaust... and for some reason my rear right brake is locked