pulsation damper delate
 

I have a 86 na 6 port I was looking to see what the pros and cons of delating the pulsation damper because mine is leaking really bad

Well you do not want it to continue to leak so I would not want to see your car light up on fire..Seriously that is what will happen if it is not attended to.
You can get an adapter to modify the rail and remove the dampener from the rail.
Many guys have done this and you can find multiple threads on deleting the part.

Turbo guys get rid of it since the aftermarket FPR acts as a dampener so it is not needed...But I am not saying to go nuts and rebuild your whole fuel system..just get a banjo bolt or a fitting that will screw into the rail.You may need to make a fuel line.Use EFI hose if so.

^^^^ this!

Actually, once you start making enough power we spend a bunch of time and money putting a damper back in :lol: . The FPR isn’t enough.

Personally I'd just replace the faulty one with with a new one and know that it will be trouble free for the next 20 years.

I have been removing the plastic cover and finding the screw rolling around for 20years. Every S4 that has come into my shop has been on the verge of PD failure and engine fire. Not to mention the ones that actually have come in after the engine has caught on fire.

Even the ones with a small fire have major damage.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d7f33cf188.jpg

Replace with OEM.

Twenty years is about right. That PD is like the ultimate time delay trigger.
Resurrected my FC a few years back. PD was bleeding like nuts so I did the banjo bolt swap.
Bingo!...until the fuel line underneath the UIM popped a few minutes later. Pulses? Very old hose ANYWAY so lucky me... happened in my driveway just testing everything and so no fire.

New hose surgery and banjo bolt still in and so far so good....now about another ten years later. Still ok.

Is there even such a thing as a new and improved PD?

(BTW, great story here. Finished the all day surgery and went to bed only to wake up in the middle of the night to ask myself "Did I take out those rags that I protectively stuffed into the intakes before I put it all back together??...Nope. Went back in next day, pulled them out, re-reassembled and she fired up clean. Whew!!)

Radium

I did 357 at the wheels and didn't have a dampener on...I did however spent more time on stupid shit..tightening this and that,routing hoses,etc.
I loved the car but I expected to drive it..Often...Since I couldn't I parted it..after building it to that HP level.

Now I got a Carbed engine..(shh..) and I don't worry about gas leaks..heh,heh..you can put more pressure on a milkshake straw than the old EFI based system.

That picture of the half-burned engine is a tragedy, I hate seeing pictures like that.

I'd replace with new or block it off as well, not worth the risk to drive it like that.

I put a radium FPD on my FD. It was easy though since my whole fuel system is aftermarket. On my FCs I always just deleted it with the instructions Banzai posted.

Frank, have you used that heat resistance stuff on AN lines before? Asking because I'm going to be doing some AN lines this year, curious on experience with them. Not to hijack the thread, because this is still relevant to fuel somehow..

I used it on my old FC with a 13B-RE with no issues. I like using it. This line I used is not steel braided line, it’s the jegs Pro Flow Extreme braided line. It was all really easy to put together over regular steel braided line. I like the heat shielding a lot though. I’ve had no issues with it on this car or my old FC.

If it is any relevance I used some Blue Fancy Schmancy hose from Summit,I believe with A/N Fittings,y block..etc on the TII Build I did.
Remember that the engine isn't supposed to get hotter than say 210 or so as it would start to be in the margins of overheating!
I did hit 230 once when the fans didn't kick on..well I forgot to turn them on!
The lines were just set above the keg not protected by any sort of shielding whatsoever.