pulled tranny again.. no real indication why the clutch doesnt disengage.56 warning
 

I am having trouble with my car lunging when i start it in gear. and wont shift out of neutral when started. my buddy and i pulled the tranny and the only thing i can notice that is not right is that the throw out bearing is a little but taller and the acutal ring is thicker. im enclosing pics can someone else point me in the right direction. the fork is ok.. a lil gunked up .. but i shot some brake clean back there and got some of it out/. but it was fairly smooth and didnt bind.
http://www.putfile.com/053113053280589.jpg
http://www.putfile.com/053113053434328.jpg
http://www.putfile.com/053113052956672.jpg
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?pic=053113052956672.jpg
http://www.putfile.com/053113051583771.jpg

http://www.putfile.com/053113050914565.jpg

the new throw out bearing is on the left ,, old one on the right

Stock flywheel?

Pilot bearing siezed or clutch hydrailics not working. Did you lube the transmissions spline shaft a little bit, and be sure the clutch disc can slide back and forth freely before installation?

Check all those things.

Hey,

My freind Frank (* RXciting ) is just going through that problem. His clutch was about to die and all of a sudden it woulndt do anything. We thought it was the throw out bearing ( what you have on the pictures). We installed new clutch ( centerforce) and after 10 hours of installing hte clutch . found out it was still garbage.
Even installed newer tranny just incase. Then today dropped the tranny again and found out his pilot bearing is torn into little pieces.

So we order a pilot bearing $ 8 and will continue from there.

Sorry I cant spell

...
 

Check the adjusting rod down at the clutch pedal, you might just not be actuating the slave.

-David Guy

Don't forget about the fork arm pivot "ball" on the tranny front case, also...

yeah, the fork and pivot ball can bend, or break with higher pressure pressure plates.

ok ,, a few hours later

put the stock throw out bearing back in .,. no go .. still catching. torqued everything to spec.. no go .. rebled the system .. no go.. adjusted the clutch pedal no go, i cleaned the the fork ball .. it moved pretty smoothly ,, no go

Rotory resurection. aftermarket flywheel , and yes i did lube the splines.. the tranny slides in and out pretty easily. also there was no play with the clutch pad and pressure plate when i torqued the pressure plate bolts.



im getting to the point where i want to give it to a shop to figuire out whats wrong.

Sidenote .. i just remembered 2 washers attached to the pressure plate with a push clip... i remember reading somewhere that 2 of the bolts needed to be spaced... i now just remember this.. could this be the source of my problems ?????

^

anyone???

Are you talking about the 2 longer bolts that go 180* from each other? How old is that pressure plate, anyway? This is a simple mechanical system- something simple is wrong/ bad- you just gotta figure it out...

Nah .. what happened was that on the pressure plate the company i bought it from(srmotorsports.. its a act) used what looked like interior push clips to hold on 2 washers.. i have taken this thing out 2 times.. play with a number of things.. i cant figuire it out. im thinking maybe i got the wrong part maybe

btw the pressure plate is about a week old .. i havent even been able to drive this car since i bought it .,, i have had it about a month .. i just want to drive the car

If it fits on the flywheel dowels and the bolts torque all the way down to the washers/ heads, and the clutch disk seems to fit OK (diameter-wise), and the throwout bearing seems to contact the pressure plate "fingers" at the right spots, and the fork arm/ throwout bearing assy pushes STRAIGHT into the pressure plate fingers, then it should be good to go...back to the hydraulics...I have to interject this, though: years ago I had problems similar to yours, and a pressure plate change and tranny front cover/ pivot stud change somehow fixed it...

I did have a case once when using an aftermarket flywheel that this same thing happened. The guy bought the flywheel used, and didn't know much about it. IT came with some odd looking spacers, and I wasnt sure they all matched. After 4 times of trying different things, and 4 times of it not working, I said f*&^ it and put on a stock flywheel, and handed the customer back his POS flywheel. IT worked flawlessly from then on. I never did find out what was the deal with that flywheel. IT was the right diameter for the application, and I was using the proper counterweight, and that is about all I knew.

Try a stock flywheel.

yeah im completly lost ,, i have now idea what to do now.. im going to talk to a friend of mine who is a great mechanic .. hopefully he can help me.

i will have to have the stock flywheel resurfaced. im going to call the place i bought it from and double check the part numbers. i bought it in a package with the act clutch from SR Motorsports. and from what i have read. there hasnt been to many problems with these flywheels .. thats why im questioning if its the fly wheel .. not to mention i spent a small fortune on that damned thing hehe

It's the Master Cylinder.

It's failed and won't disengage it.

This is what happened to mine.

I was stuck at work.

It would surge forwad if the shifter was in a gear with the clutch depressed.
If in Neutral it would start up but I couldn't shift(just grind)

$65 from Mazdatrix for it.
While your at it get the SS clutch line which is like 18 bux.
If you want to replace the Slave 30bux then you've just elimnated everything in the hydraulic section of the clutch.

I am betting this is your prob.

Everything looks fine to me from the pics.

When I had this problem I was stupid and had a "Shop" do it. Worst mistake EVER!. THe fuckers had my car for over 9 weeks and never figured it out until a newb at the shop fixed it in an hour.

He rebuilt the master cylinder and then it was fine.

Fucking morons. That is why I am the only one which has touched my car from that point on.

Oh yeah. The "rebuilt" Master Cylinder they put in has started to fail already.
It wont' engage/disengage unless it's 2 inches from the floor.
This combined with a Mazdaspeed clutch is killing me from starts. I plan to replace it very soon with a brand new one.

even if i get the slave cylinder to move ,., does that mean its the master cylinder?? when my buddy hits the clutch ,, the piston on the slave cylinder moves.. but can this still be a master cylinder??

Yup.

My Slave would move an inch or two but not enough to release the clutch.

You might have had grinding shifts before this.....hint hint

Altough Mine went out instantly with no warning so it can go either way.

well ill have to check it out .. thanks for the help .

Now that you mention it being an SR flywheel, I have another experience to note. I once installed one of these FW combos with an act clutch. IT did this exact thing on startup. I took it back apart, and found that the flywheel had been hitting the pressureplate. IN that flywheel, between the bolt holes for the PP, there are little semicircle areas machined out. IF you lay the PP on top, you'll see that this is supposed to allow the springs on the PP clearance to move as needed. However, the PP springs were bigger than the hole in the flywheel, it was hitting (you could see where the red was worn away to bare aluminum, where the springs rubbed) and binding movement. After some grinding out of the flywheel in these areas, the problem was fixed. Check into that. Post pics of your flywheel if you don't understand what Im saying.

Pilot bearing?? That's what my problem was. Pilot bearing killed itself.

the pilot bearing is entacted and lubed up

i'm having th same exact problem right now and i have the SRMotorsports 9.5lb flywheel w/ an act 6 puck i'll be replacing the master cylinder today and i'll post if this does the trick.

thanks dude ,, im getting a price on one sometime today .. just keep me updated