Prep for used 13BT engine swap
 

New to the board and rotary's and am performing a TII S5 swap into my vert. Wanted some insight as to what kind of prep to perform to the engine/tranny as I am using a decently low mileage engine but I'm not sure how long it's been on a palette (have to assume a year). Just wanting to make sure I don't damage the engine assembly after not being ran for a while, as I know with one of my other non-rotary cars I would hand turn the crank among other things for example and throw in some Marvel Mystery oil among other things.......thanks in advance as I'm just wanting to minimize damage after sitting so long

Thanks

Does the engine turn now? use some ATF.

Squirt some oil into the plug holes before trying to crank it.

Cool....... this was my train of thought as well. Sounds like you've been down my road already. Did you go with a used or rebuilt engine? Was going to do the normal things such as replacing vacuum lines with silicon, turbo lines etc. How's the flow with the stock radiator? Worth going with a Fluidyne over a well functioning stock system? The car will probably see a megasquirt for better engine management at some point (with light mods) but I just want to establish a good baseline of health first as I've been told and have seen how finicky the 13B can be if neglected or poorly tuned......again, thanks

Ok. so I'm digging this one up (but I started the thread anyway) as I have not been on the forum in a while but have decided not to Flirt with the small block 302 V8 route and to do the TII as I originally planned. What I want to know is what other things would you guys recommend I do to increase power but retain reliability other than the obvious exhaust (I have a 2.5" sidepipe setup from the Mustang Cobra already), Fuel (injectors and Walbro 255), and intake?

I will be using an S4 TII and had heard/read that the S4 definitely benefits from a turbo upgrade (probably a T3/T4 with diff exhaust mani) and different plumbing for the BOV as the original setup suffered from compressor surge?

Also, I would like to use a vacuum block so that I can simplify/combine some unneeded lines and install silicon lines as well as I'm sure the OEM rubber lines are done and wanted to know if anybody has done something similar?

Last, I would like to eliminate the air pump and EGR valve and wanted to know if the stock ECU was capable of being chipped to ignore the fact that they are no longer there or do I need to go with a standalone (MS) or piggyback for that matter so that I'm don't throw codes. Just bear in mind that I'm not new to tuning cars (20 years of it) but this is my first Rotary

Same here!
 

I am at about the same step you are.

As far as compressor surge, I haven't heard this being an issue (but this is my first experience with turbo).

I am aware that you can get an overboost situation if you have an open exhaust. Porting the wastegate on an S4 is definetely needed.

If you wanted to spend about $ 100, you can get a chip from RTEK (Digital tuning) to have some safety from overboosting (it retards timing and eliminates fuel cut)

Finally, the vacuum lines and EGR issue. Get some block-off plates and get rid of the emissions stuff. I don't belive the car will through a code even with these pieces missing.

Hope this helps.

Rob

p.s. anybody feel free to correct me if I am wrong on any of this.

Thanks for the advice as I had planned on chipping it once I got the engine in and established a baseline tune. I guess since it's OBD0 I don't have to worry about codes the way I thought I would.

as far as a turbo upgrade goes, if you are upgrading from the stock turbo manifold you want to go with a full T4 turbo like T04B, T04E, T04S, etc. believe it or not, T3/T4 is generally too small and most of the manifolds out there have a T4 flange. the BNR hybrids available for this car (which bolt to the stock turbo manifold) are a bit like a T3/T4 but the stock exhaust manifold is a proprietary design so "real" T3 or T4 turbos will not bolt up.

search for emissions removal. depending on what you decide to get rid of, you can end up with only a couple vacuum lines altogether if you don't have to pass emissions.

Thanks again for the advice as this answers several questions for me.........