Power Wiring Setup For Battery Relocation
 

Hey Guys,

I began planning out a wiring setup for power. This is what I have planned with 2 gauge wiring all around. Battery will be located in the passenger side bin. For power to the fuse block I used dotted lines to indicate possible sources as I have yet to make a decision (Power coming off the jump terminal would provide the cleanest look). Would this setup work? Any suggestions?

Attachment 724493

-Shaun

Well, electrically, yes. However with current considerations in mind, running the wire (at least in my experience) to a jump post can cause some issues. I had a lot of heat coming off the post, so instead I re-routed the wire down directly to the starter.

So the way it is now:
Stock battery terminals chopped, ring terminals crimped on and installed to jump terminals.
Battery relocated to behind driver underneath spare tire cover (convertible)
+ wire routed to starter.
- wire bolted to chassis.
Everything else, left alone.

I'm a bit confused here. Did you basically separate the jump terminal from the starter? I will be using moroso jump terminals with accel 3/8 eyelets and 2 gauge wire. The jump terminals are well insulated and have rubber caps. I would figure extreme heat coming off the post would be a result of a short and not the current. Am I wrong thinking the current flowing through a car is not enough to heat the jump terminal to be a cause for concern?

-Shaun

What you're saying you'll have to do is replace the stock battery cable ends with ring terminals and place them on the jump terminals. Then, run a super long cable from the battery to the jump terminal and run a shit ton more wires elsewhere. The fact is that the current coming from the battery, going to the jump terminal, across the 2- ring terminals on the jump terminal, to the starter is a bit too much. If you really want to do it right, replace the stock cable ends with ring terminals and attach them to your jump terminals. Now run a wire from your battery to the starter. Leave everything else in tact. Only one extra wire (2 really, if you include the ground wire) is needed for this, and it prevents a high resistance connection going across the 2 ring terminals.