Power windows, no logical explanation
 

Okay. All cables are connected, and got no resistance (ohm-meter). This is the right side door btw, cab.

The motor works on a PC PSU. It says click in the motor when it is connected to the power grid in the car. But it wont move. I can't believe a PC PSU can deliver more than the car can?

Again, all cables are connected, it says *click", I can feel the motor moves a little bit (trying to engage), but nothing more happens. Anyone got a clue?

If needed, power window motor, where can I get replacement? There muse be another car using the same motor..

Jim, Norway

Are you able to open or close the passenger window when using the drivers side switch, the passenger side switch or neither switch?

If you want to test the passenger side motor you could jumper a wire w/voltage to the Green wire that goes to the motor from the passenger side switch and the window should go down. To get the window to go up you would jumper the voltage wire to the Red wire that leads to the motor from the passenger side switch. If the window doesn't move when jumpered to go up or down then the problem is either the ground signal not being present on the wire not being jumpered or the motor is problematic. You could use the battery positive terminal for a voltage source.

Neither

Is there a Power Window lock switch on the master switch?( on the drivers door)?
maybe the Window is in LOCK mode,and you need to hit that switch.

wow, how intuitive
lol actually happend to me once
my passenger switch decides to work when it wants to thank god the driver side one both work, no a/c in a hot island

LOL I have even tried to bypass the switch with a piece of wire...

When you bypass the switch you still need to monitor the voltage coming to the switch for if there is none then bypassing achieves little. Another thing is the wire is constructed of numerous strands of wire and if there is only one strand that is complete that will allow the necessary voltage to pass through but not the necessary amperage if a fair amount of amps are necessary to run the motors. You still need to check the motors as I suggested and then work backwards in trying to isolate your problem.

If u read the first post, you would see that I said I used a computer PSU to test the motors first, and they worked. All the wires I tested both with ohm-meter and voltmeter, I get current and no resistance.

I did read your post but was a bit confused by the following statement, "It says click in the motor." Anyway, when you connected a different power supply to the motor did you rely on the ground supplied by the factory wiring or did you provide an additional ground of your own doing? Did you try using the PSU to provide power "before" the passenger switch in an attempt to operate the windows? Lastly, what voltage is the PSU providing?

I tried over the passenger switch and straight on the cables for the motor. I used the PSU's own ground, going through 230V AC. It delivers 12V DC.

The passenger switch is working as it should so

Best advise i can give is check ALL of your grounds, sometimes its one you would never expect.

How is the power window system on this car?

Is it:
The red and green is power, the black, black/blue, black/red is ground?
or
The red and green is ground, and blablablabla is power?

I didn't notice a minus-sign infront of the 12V on my multimeter lol.

I have both the doors apart on my '90, and the power is normally green, with the other (black/red, in my case) as ground, and they switch when the motor is reversed. You just have to make sure you're on the correct wires. They are not side-by-side in the connector.

Sounds to me like it's either in a bind somewhere (the window, track, regulator, whatever), or the battery is low. I have no problem getting mine to work using a couple of jumper wires. I didn't have a key for this thing for a couple of months and had to pull the door panels and use jumper wires to get the windows up and down so I could get the door locks pulled and go have a key made. Unfortunately, it's raining outside now like a cow pissing on a flat rock, and I forgot to roll the passenger side back up........

Where did you plug the jumper wire? I can explain how my switches and cables are:

Passenger side: two sliding "sleds", one for up, one for down. On up there is: Red/white, going to the master switch. Red, going to motor. And ground, connected to the ground on the down side (where the cable enters the switch). Down side, same thing. Green/white for master, green for motor, black/blue ground. This ground goes through the drivers side "Power Window Off"-switch.

On the Drivers side:
3 ground cables: One black/blue (from pass side), one black/red (the Power Off switch connects the black/red and black/blue here), and a pure black.

There are also two cables for the drivers side switch, red and green, same as the other side. On the passenger window switch on the driver side (over: master switch), same cables as on the passenger side: green/white and red/white.

This make sense to you? If not, I can photoshop/paint a little bit and make something nice for you :)

Earlier you stated that it "budged" a little when you tried it....first thing you need to do is make sure your battery is all the way up, and that there's no binding anywhere in the tracks or regulator.

Ok, here's what I did: I used two wires, one ran directly from the positive terminal on the battery, and another, shorter wire, to ground out on a bolt on the door. I put the end of the wire hot wire into the back of the plug that runs to the motor (red/white) and the end of the ground into the back of the red/black wire, and then grounded the other end to a bolt in the door and it worked fine. And I just reversed them to run it back up. I had no problem at all getting it to work, so like I said, your battery may be down, or you might've gotten something in a bind when you reinstalled the motor and regulator.

I'd go outside and take a photo of how you need to do it, but it's raining like hell right now and my willingness to help has it's limits ;)

Soon as the rain stops, though, I'll be happy to take a snapshot and post it here for you.

I never took the motor on the pass side out. I even tried with the engine going. Nothing. 14 volts running thru and still nothing. So ain't my battery, ain't the cables, the motor.. There is no logic in this.

There are other things it could be: Bad wire to the motor would be my next guess, if doing what I described doesn't work. Thing is, if neither side will work now at all, and you're jumpering like I described, and it doesn't work....well, unless both motors suddenly went bad, then that simply can't happen. You need to unplug the motor and put power and ground directly to them and make sure they're working, then trace backwards from there.

Rain is slacking off a little, and I will get a photo as quick as I can.

When the window is going down Green is power and Red is the ground. When the window goes up Red is power and Green is ground. Now you stated that the ground was "supplied by the PSU" so does that mean the PSU had two wires going to the motor? One for voltage and one for ground or was it just one wire from the PSU supplying the voltage.

I used the ground from the PSU. The ground cable in the car (black/blue from "masterswitch") got no resistance, so it shouldnt really matter.

Btw, I never said the motor on the driver side failed, I said the switches on either side doesn't give any result. But as also mentioned, all wires and all switches are in perfect order. Wires are of course as good as I can see and test. If there are a fault (which has to be so small it shouldn't to any difference), it is inside the dash, and I will probably never find it.

Black/Blue is not a ground wire as it supplies voltage from the driver switch to the passenger switch. If this wire does not have voltage on it w/key to on then the passenger windows will not work.

Just to clarify something when you connected the PSU to the motor was there one or two wires involved?

The passenger switch receives the ground signal from either the R/W or G/W wires, which comes from the driver switch, depending on whether the window is going up or down.

Oh, okay. Well. Then IF I used ground from the car, I must have used the G/W to get it down. Well, I didn't, but now I know when I will test later today :)

I used +12 and ground from PSU.

I have the wiring diagram. I just wasnt sure if the colored or the black wires were ground. But now I know.

But that doesn't have anything to do with the case. I saw another member having problem that when the motor was connected, he lost power. When he disconnected it, he suddenly got 12V again.

Maybe this got something to do with it?

By using the ground from the PSU it bypasses the factory wiring with respect to providing a ground and this is why I suggested to you to connect a wire from the battery to the motor, Green to go down, and if the motor didn't work then what does this tell you? It tells you that the ground wire, either Red or Red/White or both, is not doing its job. This is an important aspect to know.

But from the switch to the driver side, there is the black/blue wire. This is 12V right? And if I get 0V on it now, but get 12V on it when I disconnect the motor (theoretical question, the same thing that happened to another guy in here), what does this tell you?

And the motor works btw. (to the question I asked in this post)