post again about my shift up warning light
 

when I on key the light ig lighting and guess 10 seconds later it's gonna BIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII but engine not start yet
what da hell is that problem?
thx a lot!
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...postid=1798954

?????????help
thx

Re: post again about my shift up warning light
 

I have no idea what you're asking. :confused:

Well, the beep I'm guessing is from too low of coolant, the light I have no idea.

might be low on oil, if the warning cluster does not work


-Shawn

how did you came's to seen out when you was a wery old? best results twice again!

i have no freaking clue what you guys are talking about.. i can bearly understand you...

WTF...

-Markus - needs to stop wake and bake...

The light should come on everytime the key is turned on (but the engine is not running) just like the idiot lights in the dash.

But as far as what else you are asking... you'll need to use english as I only understand english.

yes.....english is good....

:rofl:

i find that's happening alot lately ;)

heookde awn foniks wroked fro mi!

Dah shnuregen falba la la.

sounds like ali G in here

non of my lights come on when i turn the key -ON

I think it's due to bad connections in the idiot light box or in the cpu

the only light that works is my hatch Led.. all others are intermittent

My shift up light like to come on in 5th too. man it's annoying.

any idea how to fix? Or anyone got the link..

thanks-Markus

haha damn
my english not good sorry guys
I am asking for the light
when I on key it's gonna work and 10 seconds later a sound like BIIIIIIIIIII, Not sure what's that sound mean guess shift up warning sound
so how can I fix the light?

ok, so your shift up light is coming on.. as well as your redline warning buzzer? humm.. you must have a short somewhere in the dash.. that be only thing i think of.

get- get- checked out may work later
making you better feeling

-Mar (KUS)

This happened to me yesterday.
I was cleaning the engine compartment and had all the wires disconected. When finished keyed on and the buzzer came on.

I forgot to hook up the wire that goes to the radiator.
Hooked it up and the buzzer stopped.

It won't do any good to stand on the key. The key needs to go into the ignition. Why are you standing on the key? Get off the key. I think that'll solve your problem.

Try upshifting. Sometimes that helps get rid of the RPM buzzer.

And white gauge faces belong on hondas.

That do fixed extremely your problem good.

I hate to hi-jack this thread, but could some one explain to me what the idiot lights are and post a pic of them. I dont own an rx-7 yet so I have no clue what they are. thanks

ok the guy cant speek good english so what he is learning how to so dont put him down. he is askin a question. i dont know the answer but im sure someone can help

Is that a green wire? I have a wire not connect on the top of radiator
will try tomorrow

thx you guys

If none of the lights come on, when you turn the key to the on position but do not start, then the alt failure relay in the CPU has failed.

Try re-soldering the CPU first.

Quote:

---

My shift up light like to come on in 5th too. man it's annoying.

---

Your 5th gear sensor on the tranny is not hooked up or is broken.

how to re-soldering the CPU??????

If this wire you speak of is located exactly in the middle of the top of the radiator and is not plugged in, that's your buzzing cause, as it thinks your car doesn't have enough coolant, find the wire for that (extremely long 1 wire plug) and plug it in.

1. Remove the Driver's Side running board cover
It’s the long plastic piece that mounts immediately below the door. This is held in by 6 screws. Pull the plastic rail up, away from the vehicle. There are three metal clips under the running board cover that hold it down, so you will have to provide a pretty good amount of upward pressure.

2. Remove Plastic Side Panel
Take a look at the plastic side panel on the left side of the driver's foot well. This is called the kick panel. Remove the three plastic lock tabs that hold the plastic kick panel cover in. Pull them out. Then lift the panel up and out of the way.

3. Find the CPU.
The CPU is the black almost rectangular box bolted to the metal in the driver’s kick panel. It will have a large wiring harness plugged into the front of it and 1 or two plugs on the bottom. Unplug the harnesses. There is a 10mm nut holding the CPU in place you need to remove it, and then slide the top of the CPU off the mounting bolt. The whole CPU then slides up and can be removed from the car.

4. Remove all the small screws on the CPU (usually 2).
Remove the rear and bottom cover panels, (they are locked in with tabs). This will allow you access to the circuit boards.

5. Resolder
Take a close look at all the solder points on all three of the circuit boards. It would be wise to resolder all of them if you have the ability to do so. However, if you're in a hurry you can just resolder the areas where the spade connectors for the wiring harness plugs are located and where the relays mount. These are easy to recognize because of the copper spade connectors on the component side of the board and the larger solder points on the other side of the board.

These solder points often are the main cause of trouble due to the stress from the weight of the wiring harness and relays bouncing around on them.

Remember when re-soldering you should remove the old solder first (with a solder sucker or solder braid) then flow new solder in. Also use a 25 watt or less soldering iron or professional temp adjustable soldering iron. Too high of temps will burn the circuit board traces off or damage other parts of the board.

6. Re-assemble and plug in and test.
Test by plugging in the CPU before bolting the CPU in, just in case you missed a joint and need to solder the CPU again. If it checks out okay, then re-install and re-assemble the car.