It ain't indexed for install. It's after a timing light was put on it. Indexed is when it's cutting the corner of the sensor. Either way the car should start and run IF everything else is good. Which it seems not to be the case.

It still sounds like a large air leak. Is the bov hose cn? Probably, that'd be too easy.

 

Which BOV hose are you referring to? The BOV is in, but I did pull the vacuum line off it to make sure it wasn't opening at the wrong time, letting air in. I then also had my buddy hold his hands over it to make sure no air was being pulled in, but nothing doing. There aren't any other lines going to the BOV, right...

I checked all the ECU grounds, all of them are showing about .4 ohms resistance, so basically they are good:S

I did found out my fuel filter had been installed backwards , so I fixed that, but no change in the problem.

It's really weird, if I hold the throttle down lightly, it starts right up, will rev nice and smooth to about 3,000rpm and hold there very momentarily, then it will start to sound like it's breaking up a little bit, the rpms drop and the car dies.

 

I was thinking the stock bov that pushes into the rear of the turbo inlet duct. I've left that one off/out once or twice.

 

the forward fuel line is the one hooked up from the filter right?

 

Filter outlet goes to the primary rail firewall side, secondary rail firewall side is the return line, at least that's how it's hooked up...

 

hmm, if i remember correct the front line towards the front of the car is the primary inlet and the rear is the outlet from the secondary rail(pressure regulator).

try swapping them and see if it cures it...

just thinking of possible causes.

 

double checked mine and it is

front lower steel line= primary inlet(from fuel filter)
rear lower steel line= secondary fuel outlet to tank
upper steel line= evap line to charcoal canister


but then again, i know you will come back and say you had it hooked up right in the first place and here i was thinking i found the whole problem.

 

lol, i see someone is pissed about my posts earlier and is trying to ruin my rep.


(disregard this, i'm just talking to myself)

 

Not sure I follow your layout exactly, slightly confused by it actually...

I attached the .jpg that I followed to lay out the fuel lines. Basically, primary (lower) line has the inlet on the firewall side, then the front feeds the secondary rail (upper), then the return is on the firewall side of the secondary rail.

Maybe we're not talking about the same place in the fuel system lol.

 

it is the same place, but the filter is the spot that provides fuel pressure, it is not the return line. they both are pressure lines but i call the feed line the 'pressure line' and the return the 'return line'.

so basically if you have the line off the filter running up to the forward metal line that goes to the bottom rail then it should be good.

i'll take some pics tomorrow if you aren't sure still what i'm talking about.

 

So, just so I know, does this look about right for an initial setup

 

about those fuel lines... i've only worked on NA's but from my limited experiences i've come across american engines that had the front-most line the feed and the rear-most the return and vice-versa. my first rebuild i had them reversed and had problems similar to what you're experiencing.

the way i figured out my mistake is i peeked under the intake mani's with a flashlight and followed the line from the fuel filter, while using my haynes manual as a reference. i had routed the feed to the front line but the rear line was the one that hit the primary first. can't hurt to check it again.

 

Actually, no.

I think you need to crank it one more tooth counter-clockwise.

The top two home teeth need to be on the other side of the mag sensor edge.

Did you line up the "dimple" with the raises "arrow" at the base?


-Ted

 

I didn't realise that my image was upside-down compared to the previous image posted by HAILERS and maybe you didn't either?? If I did what you say, it would look just like the image he posted, and you said that was wrong too!

 

HAILERS pic was a bit closer to the initial position than yours was.
In yours was an *inverse* pic, then it would've been perfect.

Please check the round dimple and the raised "arrow" - they should be perfectly lined up at the base.


-Ted

 

They were! I quadruple checked it! Or so I though, anyway

Just to be clear...the initial procedure is to line up the pully's yellow timing mark (the first one) with the timing pin on the front cover. Then line up the 2 dots on the CAS drive gear/body and insert it so the locking stud is about center of the adjustment opening on the CAS. Correct?

 

Yep, basically...

It would help to remove the two screws off the cover (well, it's obvious if you're taking pics of the insides ) and then stab the CAS back in - the CAS will spin a little due to the gears engaging, but make sure the teeth are in the right position after it has seated fully.
The damn things tends to rotating one tooth off if you're not watching it with the cover removed.


-Ted

 

The location of the stud in the groove of the cas has nothing to do with whether the timing is right or not. It's the position of the teeth inside the cas cover vs the pickup. When they are aligned you clamp the cas down. The stud may/might not be in or near the middle of the groove.

 

i have a problem near yours but one day it just wouldnt fire anymore,its been like this for a month and have replaced every sensor/ecu/coils relays etc still no starts? goodluck

 

did you prime the oil system? might try unflooding proceedure and injecting some oil in the lower spark plug holes....i didnt read the whole 3 pages of this thread but, sounds like you have your CAS in correctly, fuel lines are in right, your getting spark. maybe a vac leak?