pics or it didnt happen.

thanks for the write up and for the follow up, glad to see after 2 years your still in good hands..

lol bump

Is your wiring still intact? hows the shielding holding up?

here is a good thread on the subject:

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/word-about-re-wiring-your-fuel-pump-%5Bpics%5D-921896/

Car hasn't burned down. I haven't even touched anything in the fuel tank in over three years. I am still using that 8 gauge wire sold for audio applications. I have not maxed out my Supra pump yet... currently running 17psi on a T04R turbo. With 43.5psi base pressure I am at 85% injector duty cycle with 720/1680.

Good read, will look at doing this soon. Should be good with the battery in the back almost on top of the fuel pump :D

If I went to a Walbro fuel pump (GSS340/GSS341) would I have to mess around with the in tank wiring?

good general info, but most of the meat of that thread in regards to photos is FD application, you can apply some of it to FCs though

Is this a 2000HP drag truck? I can't fathom a big enough electrical fuel pump to necessitate 4 gauge wire.

I'm glad there have been no issues with your setup. But have you pulled the pump flange to check the condition of the wires?

haha no he is just the "one-upper" type. He does ridiculous things for his own amusement.

Are you referring to the cover with all those little screws? No I have not removed it.

I'm thinking about checking mine soon. That's a good idea...

so if i have an s4 na they dont have a fuel pump resistor i turbo swapped it with a s5 engine and s4 tii engine harness. i am running a rtek 2.1 so can i use how you rewired your fuel pump or do i have to find a different way to rewire it.

You can rewire... You just don't need to bypass the fuel pump relay and resistor, because you don't have them. (Same as me.) - I opted for thicker, better quality wiring.

too much work for the series 4 bulkhead connector pump housing. these are already the most bulletproof for electrical issues with the pump. all you need is to be sure the electrical wiring running up to and inside the tank is sufficient.

With that gauge of your "bought wire" relay will be the weak link (assuming you bought a chinese 30 Amp Relay) All components in your wiring must be matched or else your setup is only as good as it' "weakest link"

I could probably buy a better quality relay.

I was being slightly sarcastic. Your fuel pump should Draw no more than 15 amps. Assuming your power (+) wire is @ 15ft long you should require no more that AWG 12 wire. *

* Aircraft Electricity and Electronics
Attachment 704846

I was being slightly sarcastic. Your fuel pump should Draw no more than 15 amps. Assuming your power (+) wire is @ 15ft long you should require no more that AWG 12 wire. * This would be for wire in a bundle (to compensate for more heat built up from the adjacent wires in the bundle) therefore your AWG 12 is the overkill.

* Aircraft Electricity and Electronics
Attachment 704847

Attachment 704848

sorry for the double post. I "one-upped" my first post bahaha

the title of the thread states that. my point was making passthrough holes right next to the bulkhead connectors which the brass is as thick as the 8gauge cable even.

OLD post but wanted to add that i've had my pump rewired and wired in the tank with 12 gauge autozone wire and its been great for about 2 years now.