OMP Removal
 

It's been a while since my last visit...
I was driving in standstill traffic this weekend in my s5 DD when my car suddenly went into limp mode. I pulled over and when I restarted the car it ran fine. I'm not currently with my car but I will pull the error codes this weekend. My friend did some research and found that the OMP is the leading cause of the car going limp. I just want to verify the procedure for removing it...

1. Check the wiring first according to the FSM. (Although I may just go ahead with premixing. I don't like knowing the electrical OMP could fail at any moment.)

2. There was no check engine light. Shouldn't there be to pull a code as serious as OMP failure? I can pull codes, I just don't think one would be there.

3. I was just planning on following this archived thread https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=remove+omp are there any discrepancies between this guide and an s5?

3a. With the exception of using the pineapple racing block-off plate (and possibly the oil injector plugs.)

4. Are there any alternatives to using Rtek to eliminate the OMP? How hard is this to solder to the existing ecu? I am fairly experienced, however I do not have a temp. adjustable soldering iron and am concerned with lifting the tracing.

5. The oil buzzer had gone off previously in the day, but it was when driving hard around corners, and I promptly added oil hours before this episode.

Thanks ahead of time to anyone that reads this. I should be contributing to the forum soon, just finalizing a write-up. Any other thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

I went the same route , S5 here and i put S4 waterpump jacket on my car which eventually crushed the electric OMP..

I ordered rtek 1.5 chip, soldered it in myself. My solder experience is from RC cars, so basic skill is good enough. Get a good quality solder gun, no radioshack junk. I cant remember if i bought a 15 or 30 amp gun, ill check but its a good investment for light work that you may also do in the future. Make sure you get a solder wick, apply heat via soldering gun on the old chip's contacts to melt the solder , than use the solder wick to soak up the old solder , that is the best way to remove it. That was hardest thing to figure out for me, but once i figured it out, it became easy.

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...be792b3edd.jpg
Thats the chip holder already installed.

I went with the pineapple block offs as well. Your going to have to pull the upper intake manifold and fuel rail/injectors to gain access to the oil injectors to pull them.

I did the chip install in an evening, just sitting in front of the tv taking my time. And i installed the block offs the next day.

If you must drive your car right now, I did this for a day or 2 when i had the OMP failure, just accelerate slowly and it wont trip limp mode, id advise to start premixing just to be safe.

The Rtek chip has good features for light bolt on mods. Like having the secondary injectors working at a lower rpm. And with just $30 to upgrade to their 1.7 or 1.8 chip when i get bigger injectors is not a bad deal at all.


edit: pick up a 25 watt soldering gun, this is the one i bought.
http://www.electronicswarehouse.net/...cfm/4,918.html

FWIW, I had my car go into limp mode (conveniently during the first 100 miles of a cross country trip). For me, it turned out that the wire from the ecu to the O2 sensor was bad. Replacing it fixed my issue. Do pull codes, at least to sanity check, before doing anything.

+1 for premixing. I did it anyway, even with a working MOP. I have the MOP conversion kit coming in the mail.

Thanks for your advice guys. I couldn't pull any engine codes, I may have to check the wiring to the ECU to test proper functionality. My check engine light never came on when the car went into limp mode.