OMP adaptability question.
 

I'm swapping an S5 engine into my S4 will the mechanical OMP bolt right up to the S5 front cover, or do i have to use the S4 cover?

You would have to use the s4 front cover to use the s4 mechanical OMP.

Damn, alright, thanks for the reply.

waaaiit, If i have to swap front covers then i have to deal with the CAS then . . .

I don't know about the CAS deal, but I know for sure you would have to use the same series cover to use the OMP of the like. I wanted to run the mechanical OMP on my s5 TII engine, and found out I needed to swap covers. I decided not to do it because I didn't want to mess with all that without the proper tools and time, so I'm gonna run premix for a while before I get around to that.

i have time, this isnt my DD, but i'll have to remove the pulley and wont i have to re-stab the CAS or something. I was hoping to avoid haveing to deal with ignotion :(

if you swap front covers
i believe you have to deal with the waterpump housing too...
and if you swap waterpump housing you have to deal with the waterpump too

^I forgot to mention that, thanks for following up.

There is a CAS difference? i knew about the waterpump/water neck already..

well i'm ok with removing the parts from the front. I just dont know what i'm doing about CAS alignment when i put it back together . . .

any tips etc.?

special precautions i need to take?

just bought a brand new s4 water pump assembly (housing , pump, gasket, thermostat and cap) on ebay fro $90, i prefer the s4 unit. so thats taken care of now . . .

only thing uncertain to me at this point . . .
what do i do about the EGR, since this is an S5 block there's no place for it. So how do i go about blocking it off and still passing emissions?

the egr shouldnt have anything to do with it....

oh, precaution... when you take the front cover off... get something to hold the clutch in... or your torrington bearing might fall...

the motor will be out of the car and disconnected from the tranny :\ , what then?

Make sure that the flywheel is always pounting down when the front pully nut is off.
Also, not sure if anyone mentioned this, but you have to use the s4 tb to work the omp. I assume you were doing that anyway since you need the s4 tps as well.

yeah all of the S4 components are going onto the S5 block.

your not being clear about the flywheel.

and

when i put in gaskets for the front cover etc, do i put gasket sealer on the surfaces and if so which ones NEED it and how much?

When the engine is one the engine stand, make sure that the side with the flywheel is always facing down, and that the side with the front cover/pully is always facing up. Here's a link about what will happen otherwise: http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm
Also, make sure you use the teflon spacer thingy on the front cover o-ring as described here: http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/oring.htm. That of course is assuming that it has a 89-91 style casting (which it should).

sideways 7 got it.

on the front cover, dont use the gasket....

whynot use gasket?

Actually, I think you can use the gasket on the s5 castings, but not the s4's. Unless you use the 85 13b front cover gasket... Basically, the casting for the front cover oil o-ring is different sizes from the s4 to s5 castings. All of the gasket kits ship for s5 castings, so they are the wrong size for s4's. It should be deatiled in the o-ring link I posted.

well i'm still using the S4 front plate, so i'd imagine it has the small oil o-ring casting, so none if this is really a worry is it? just use silicone in place of the gasket? which type of silicone? And how much is too much . . .

i need answers for this question pleaseorz, i have to start work on this pretty soon . . .
s4 cover s5 block
put in oil O-ring and put silicone (what type and how much on it?)
then put silicone around mating edge and then bolt together? that simple?

Actually, the casting is in the engine block, not the front cover. If you have an s5 block (which it sounds like you do) then you should use the teflon spacer. I don't trust silicon in that position, and its just a couple dollar part. I had trouble finding the part number in the catalog, so if I can find the number for it tomorrow I'll post it up.
So in summary, you will need the white teflon spacer, the front cover oil o-ring, and the s5 front cover gasket (unless you want to just use silicon instead.) If you choose to use the silicon around the outside of the front cover, I would think that whatever you would use for the oil pan would work. I think I used grey 999, but I could be mistaken.

how hard was it to un do that front bolt, i think i'll ne a flywheel stopper, b/c the motor is free of the tranny . . .
should i just buy a full engine gasket kit since i have to do the intake gaskets too? or would it be cheaper to only get what i need

yeah if you can get me that part number thatd be great, then i can just go into mazda and order what i need.

last thing i need to know i guess is, how do i remove and re-install the crank angle sensor correctly . . .

upon looking at the FSM i should be alright, not sure where the mating mark is though . . .whatev.