OMG i am going to torch my TII
 

ok, so i finish my batch of up grades (FMIC, walbro 225, 720cc inj, rtec7 1.8...). but befor i explain my problems i'll tell you what else is wrong with the car. the grounds on the dash wiring harness arent grounded so the hazzerds are on all the time. The rear veiw mirror cluster thing isnt even on/conected to the car. and i could have a minor UIM to LIM leak. Now here is what happend. i got it started and got going, first gear was ok but it seemed slugish down low, hit second and it stumbles and spits and sputers now this happens though all the other gears. then i go to turn around and it dies even when i try to keep it running by hitting the gas. so i go to start it again and the starts runs to 1k and dies imedatly. and this is were i am now. O and i trailerd it back to the shop and i was taking it off the trailer and the intercooler caught a cross bar on the trailer and broke my cut out bumper support, damn it. so its just been a great night and on top of that i have no idea what could be wrong so i need help ASAP. thank you very much for your help in advance.

ouch, that sucks man. check for vacuum leaks, check your AFM, pray to the rotary gods.

Check compression.

vac leaks, afm, ecu

my afm isnt level sence i used left over intercooler piping to make a hard pipe intake and it makes the AFM not level. would that have anything to do with it?

and because of my hard intake pipe i had to leave my BOV open (not blowing back into the intake), and this would make a vacume leak could that be my problem?

yeah.. go level ur afm first.

Depending on the make of your BOV, you probably have a vacuum leak at idle with it being open.

compression test too

definitely level your AFM, mine isn't level (P.O. mods) and now it's going to shit! so that's the first on my list of overhauls this weekend is getting that corrected.

ok, today i'm going to level off the AFM and put the BOV in stock location and then see what happens because it acts just like the time when i tried to start it w/o the AFM conected.

o yeah, and i have a AFM off of a s5 gtu, i was wondering if any one knew of a thred were it tells you how to swap in the lineir s5 AFM for the flaper s4 type.

o and i also have a A/F ratio meter hooked up but it reads way way lean all the time and i think i didnt hook it up right, but just incase that helps anyone.

You could just cap off the BOV temporarily and see how it does, before you go through the trouble of moving it.

yeah, today i'm gonna go back over to the shop and have a friend put his thumb over the end off the BOV and see if that helps.

Dude, theres your problem.

A stock BOV is no where near a one-way valve...even thought its supposed to be. Lots of people try to home depot it to get the ''pssshhhh'' sound but end up with major vaccum leaks.

It wont read anything right until the 02 sensor reached its operating temp....which is pretty damn hot.

A thumb will brobably not help. Just connect it like it used to be. :)

I think I would start with your UIM or LIM issue, then work on the other things. May be kinda hard to pin things down when you have mulitiple issues. Fix the ones you know about then start from there. This is basic trouble shooting no matter what your working on. Cars, computers anything... That and make sure everything is plugged in correctly.

yeah, i'm not going to beable to work on it till later but i give it a shot, and when i got it started in the shop it wouldnt idle. it would just die, you had to stay in the gas alil to keep it running. if that helps any.

I a vacum leak 100% sure. Most likely your BOV. :)

stock bov is more liek a diverter valve

hey, i figured it out, one of the pipes that go to the FMIC blew off the coupler. Yep thats a vac leak, lol

That would cause it. ;)

BTW howd you not notice an IC pipe wasnt hooked up?

nice thing to over look..it happens.

:AA: