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-   -   oil & water on dip stick.... (https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/oil-water-dip-stick-621646/)

mort2002 02-07-07 03:49 PM

oil & water on dip stick....
 
ok soi o out on my lunch and check my oil.... i pull the dip stick and see a lil milk on it.. so i fugure the car has been sitting for about 2 months or so, so i firured it was normal..
so i stick the dip stick back in and when i pull it out the front of the dip stick was balck oil, and the back was white... i was like WTF...

so i stick it back in and out like 15 times and get the same result.... so i start the car to see if it all turns white...

while the car runs i pull the radiator cap and there are no bubbles... just coolant... i have had a very minimal coolant loss lately,. but i figure that is from draining the radiator and replacing the coolant before winter.. as the car is running the oil never turns all the way milky, it just keeps the same pattern, the oil on the front of the dip stick and milky on the back... andy ideas.. and the car still holds pressure in the radiator...

Richter12x2 02-07-07 04:03 PM

A couple of months ago, I was refilling the coolant on mine and had so much coolant getting into the oilpan that all the oil floated out - turned out to be a cracked intermediate iron.

My thoughts would be to change the oil and filter and see if it comes back - if it comes back plan on rebuilding the engine sooner rather than later..

mort2002 02-07-07 04:05 PM

yea thats what im afraid of... but the only thing i thought was wierd is that the oil is full but its not all white, and i drive my car 32 miles each day.. i should be all white and foamy..

Go48 02-07-07 04:10 PM

Probably just condensation mixed with a bit of oil and air. Short trips without fully warming the engine tend to cause this "issue". Fairly common with other cars as well. It's not a big deal, unless you are concerned with the appearance aspect of it. :)

Drive the car and get the engine very warm, then check for the milky stuff. I bet it will be gone. If not, change the oil and collect a sample to send to Blackstone Labs (BlackstoneLabs.com) for analysis. That's $20 well spent, IMO.

hIGGI 02-07-07 04:13 PM

i had cracked front iron on my race engine in spring and i have same crack on my beater TII now again.....leaking coolant into oil pan.....

mort2002 02-07-07 04:13 PM

yea i jsut went out and checked it agian and now its gone.. the only thing is ive had this happen before but this time it seemed like way more... and i drive 16 miles to work every day, and i give my car usally 10 mins in the moring before work and 10 after work before i leave..

Go48 02-07-07 04:18 PM


Originally Posted by mort2002
yea i jsut went out and checked it agian and now its gone.. the only thing is ive had this happen before but this time it seemed like way more... and i drive 16 miles to work every day, and i give my car usally 10 mins in the moring before work and 10 after work before i leave..

I assume you mean you let the car idle for 10 minutes to warm up? That's way too long and may be contributing to the condensation build up. Warm up the engine for a minute or so and then drive it keeping the revs around 3-4K or less until the engine is fully warmed up.

NOPR 02-07-07 05:27 PM

another thing it could be if you get a small leak of cooant into the oil pan is a cracked or leaking freeze plug.

teknics 02-07-07 05:53 PM

most likely condensation or air getting in...or you overfilled at the last oil change.

its common, dont listen to these people saying your motor is bad, seriously its normal, happens on brand new cars.

kevin.

mort2002 02-07-07 06:22 PM

well i cant imagine that warming up the car in the drive way for 10 mins is going to hurt it or contribute to the condesation. if you warm it up all the way before you drive it, it should be better on the engine, mine doesnt run right untill i have full temp, i run way richer untill its warm, it will buck and hesitate. it maxes out my wide band a 9 to 1 ...lol.. i hope it was just some condesation, it just seemed like more than what you would expect to be there....

ericgrau 02-07-07 06:48 PM

Condensation from outside air can get into the oil, especially if there car has been sitting for a while or if it hasn't been warmed up all the way. The idea behind what people are telling you is to boil away all the water, or to get rid of it by changing your oil. If it comes back quick it might be coolant, if it doesn't it's just condensation from the air.

Btw, taking frequent short trips or not driving your car for long periods of time falls under the "severe" category for oil changes, since the water tends to eat up the rust preventing additives in the oil. If you make a regular habit of doing these things, you need to change your oil more often. Every 2,000 miles instead of every 3,000 miles. Same goes for dusty climates, very cold climates, or Canada (no joke).

slow_2ed_gen 02-07-07 08:31 PM

has it sat for a while recently? maybe its condensation?

mort2002 02-08-07 08:17 AM

well it sat for a while, and i do change the oil every 2k... i changed it again last night and ill see what happens later...

Aaron Cake 02-08-07 08:57 AM

Excessive warmups can cause this issue if the purge system isn't up to snuff. Blowby collects in the "crankcase" and then condenses into the oil.

First, stop with the big warmup. Totally unnecessary and a waste of time and fuel. Just start the car, put on your seatbelt, and drive.

2nd, check the purge system as per the FSM/Haynes. :)

mort2002 02-08-07 09:50 AM

if by purge system you mean like the PCV system, i have the nipple on the oil fill tube, and the one on block going to a tee with a little k&n filter on it....

mannyvidal 02-08-07 12:33 PM

condensation sounds about right

Aaron Cake 02-10-07 11:15 AM


Originally Posted by mort2002
if by purge system you mean like the PCV system, i have the nipple on the oil fill tube, and the one on block going to a tee with a little k&n filter on it....

I suspect that's the problem. The nipple on the rear iron needs to go to a fresh air source, and the nipple on the oil filler neck needs to go through a PCV valve (or the stock purge valve) to a vacuum source. This flows air through the block and removes combustion gasses...


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