Oil pressure gauge wiring??
 

Ok, look at my picture over there <---

see how my oil gauge droops below the resting point?

well, when the previous owner of my 7 (uncle) swapped the transmission,
he did it in a hurry and forgot to hook up some wire relating to the oil gauge.
he said it wasn't black, but was a color- like orange or red or something.

Anyways, when he got back in the car and started it for a test drive,
the gauge didnt work..

Anyways, what is this wire exactly and where should does it run to and from?
Sorry I haven't got a lot of info!

No. It's small and fuzzy.

As seen in the attached pictures, is the oil pressure sender hooked up?

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ugesbitmap.jpg

sorry about the pic, theres a better 1...
and yes, the oil pressure sender is hooked up... just checked

One more thing- whenn i revv and hold it at ~5K, the gauge barely moves up...

EDIT
wrong pic:-D
take a look at this 1
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...5/PHOT0009.jpg

So, today I was adding dope to the transmission and I started searching for a disconnected wire. I found 2 that were the same color and tied those off together, but that just made my reverse light's work :D

So I found another wire that was solid black near the gold oil pressure thing. It's not the one that attaches to the tip of the gold oil pressure thing, it's another one. Well, since it was black, I decided to ground it. So I stripped the wire and put it behind some bolt on the body.

Now it was test time- I got in the car went to start it. At this time, the oil gauge was 'drooped' down. When I started it up, the gauge started going up. I started smiling... Well, it went past the 0 mark, then past 30, then past 60, then past 110!! It stood straight up, off the gauge.

So, I guess I grounded it wrong....?

someone help me! I need this gauge!
(And when I turned off the car, the needle goes back down and droops...:()

I noticed something else today...

when the car's on, but the engine isn't started-
the gauge goes up all the way also...

so no-one else has had to trace the oil pressure gauge wiring?

...anyone?

Do you still have the black condensor "box" that bolts to the bellhousing? ( These somehow get lost frequently with trans work, and by the sound of "stripping" a black wire to ground, sounds like may have that line w/o a condensor.)

umm... i have no clue

anyone have a pic of one and where it is?

The wire you grounded is driving or pegging the gauge. It's directly tied to the wire connected to the oil pressure sender. That wire was supposed to have a condenser installed on it. Unground that wire and the gauge might work again.

Well I did a search on condensor
and found the pic attached below...

So where does this bolt to stock?
Now I'm pretty sure that black wire was the one that goes to this little black box.
It's near the same location also...

Whenever I find out where it bolts to, I'll go look for it.
So help!

It usually gets bolted to the bellhousing, but w/ trans work they tend to move around, check in perhaps a 6" radius of that area and maybe you will find it. iirc, the condensor has a white connector on it, and the black wire from the harness has a white connector also(perhaps this connector was ripped off during prior work). Do as Hailers mentioned, you may get incorrect readings but it should still be a reading. I'm sure you can locate one of these from a junkyard if you cant find yours.

That Hobbit picture really needs to stop being re-used. :p:

I think mine is bolted to my firewall.

If you ungrounded that wire that you grounded, then the gauge should be moving again b/t zero and the top number.

If you take a few minutes to read the FSM, you'll find that you can figure out if the gauge is functional or not. You just remove the connector off the sensor and put a resistor of a given value b/t the connector and a good ground. The meter should respond to the *given* value of the resistor by driving to a value on the gauge that corresponds to that resistor.

Like a 10ohm resistor should drive to 30psi. A 20ohm resistor should drive to 40 psi etc.

I MADE UP those resistor values. The real values are in the FSM.

If you find the gauge to be not very accurate you can rig up a mechanical gauge to the engine and fully warm it up. The find the wire that goes to that condenser and remove the condenser and set it aside. Then insert a resistor b/t the wire that was connected to the condenser and put the resistors other end to gnd. Compare the mechanical reading with the stock gauge reading. Add or subtract resistor values til your factory gauge reads close to the mechanical gauge. Start out with a 200 ohm resistor and then add or subtract resistor values til the gauge reads comfortably close to the mechanical gauge reading.

Have a fun day.