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oil filler neck removal/s5 water housing on s4 block
hello boys and girls!!
sooo i have a s4 block and a s5 water pump and housing can i grind the the tab that wont let me slide the s5 housing on? also ibe been tring to get the oil filler neck out for a few days now... any recommendations i did look but nothing really answered my question maybe im using the wrong key words! |
Oil filler neck is pressed into the intermediate housing. Some whacks with a rubber mallet (alternating sides of the flange) removed mine.
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why would you want to use the s5 housing? it uses a crappy plastic thermostat housing
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My 20 year old "crappy plastic housing" resents that.
Certainly, there is a "service life" for a plastic part but it's not necessarily shorter than that of an aluminum duplicate. At one point I was searching the junkyard for an alloy alternative to my plastic housing and saw plenty of alloy parts- from newer cars than mine- that were corroded beyond usability. The cooling loop is a very harsh environment and in many ways plastic is a better choice. You can argue about implementation (the S5 housing tends to split at the casting seam) but the base material makes sense. I've seen just as many alloy housings with holes rotted right through as plastic ones with splits. |
i certainly wouldn't make an effort to use the s5 housing over the s4. i have not had any issues with the metal s4 neck and metal cap-mount-thing on both of my FC's. i have seen companies making the s5 necks out of metal, but i've never seen anyone making the s4 neck in plasic.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/Pictures/b-water/RadCap8.jpg |
The thing is I wanna start this car and I can't aford a s4 water pump (38 new). Since I have bills this check.... so I would rather use the s5 till I kno if the s4 keg is good or not.
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https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...5&postcount=58
so i found that after many searches and different keywords and the power of google. is that safe at all ? like i said i just need start the car get it to running temp make sure that the oil control rings are good.. and the coolant seals are intact if it passes im pulling the motor and throwing a t2 front cover on turboing it |
Originally Posted by clokker
(Post 10949860)
My 20 year old "crappy plastic housing" resents that.
Certainly, there is a "service life" for a plastic part but it's not necessarily shorter than that of an aluminum duplicate. At one point I was searching the junkyard for an alloy alternative to my plastic housing and saw plenty of alloy parts- from newer cars than mine- that were corroded beyond usability. The cooling loop is a very harsh environment and in many ways plastic is a better choice. You can argue about implementation (the S5 housing tends to split at the casting seam) but the base material makes sense. I've seen just as many alloy housings with holes rotted right through as plastic ones with splits. in reality they fail a lot, but they do give TONS of warning. new ones are black, old ones are brown, really scary it'll break if you touch it old ones are almost white. |
so can i do this or not?
http://www.utistunts.com/DbA/S5%20Tii/9-23/DSC05805.JPG
http://www.utistunts.com/DbA/S5%20Tii/9-23/DSC05806.JPG pics thanks to TrboSpdAnt can i do this with out worry of shit breaking ? again i just wanna get the car started |
try it and find out?
for the metal versus plastic argument, i prefer aluminum. it gives a much less violent failure than the plastic ones do which can take a motor with them. |
i got the pump on check it out in my build thread .. i compelled forgot to take a picture of what i cut and ground down but it was alot less then what was shown in this picture.. my threads are fully enclosed in metal still
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