Oil Baffle Plate
 

So I am getting my little 13b rebuilt medium street ported in a couple of weeks. Got the turbo2 exhaust sleeves. I was considering getting a oil baffle plate. My friend suggested I also get the Banzai racing oil pan brace while I am there to reduce the flex and leaks of the oil pan. So far I have found the oil baffle plate from Racingbeat anyone else have good ones out there. Do I need to get longer oil pan bolts since I am installing a brace, baffle plate and the two gaskets required? Any information would help.

Yes.

Are there other options besides the Racingbeat Baffle Plate?

The pineapple racing oil pan has baffles built in.

http://www.pineappleracing.com/fcaluminumoilpan.aspx

If you get the oil pan brace, it comes with studs that are longer than OEM and you should be fine to run the baffle and brace

Hahaha Roger that Jaime

I got mine from atkins rotary, works great just the plate. i put studs/longer bolts in too

I have the baffle plate on my T2. It certainly doesn't hurt... but in hindsight I question how necessary it is. Four years ago I took my old GTU (which has no baffle plate) to a Deal's Gap meet. I went up and down the Dragon at least half a dozen times. It's not like I had any oil pressure problems after that, and the engine is still running.

Maybe if you did a lot of skidpad or drifting type of stuff there's a chance the oil pickup could suck air.

I am not going to drift maybe autoX very rarely. I just want some kick to my car while knowing it is running really good and has enough to keep it healthy on the streets and on the track

A one time romp isn't a scientific or even an intelligent way to make an assessment of what’s necessary or not. :scratchhead: .

The oil pan baffles servers a couple purposes.
First off, the ones designed to go between the stock oil pan and block don’t do much for containing slosh or high G cornering. Your pick-up will still be submerged without it in most circumstances.
It's real purpose is to slow the return of the oil back into the pan were it then gets picked back up. When running high RPM your oil is pumping faster and is under more pressure to keep up with engine demands. When it leaves the center plate and such and makes it was back down to the pan its foamy and frothy from the internal engine parts moving at high RPM and from being pumped so fast and at high pressures (think of pumping soda through a bunch of different channels and tubes. When you pump it slowly when it returns it’s relatively liquid. Now pump it through the system FAST and under HIGH pressure. As soon as it reaches a place of low pressure {your oil pan} it’ll turn into froth and foam instantly. Now I know oil isn’t carbonated, but you get the point). This froth/foamy oil can be picked back and into the oiling system and you DON’T want air in your oil. Air will cause a loss of the oil film that keeps your shafts floating within bearings. Air is also an insulator, so the oil cannot expel heat like it should through various contact within the block and coolers. So that’s what the oil baffle is for, to slow the oils return and be a flat plate for the oil to fall on so air can escape the oil suspension.

~Mike............

with my first 7 i was spinning some doughnuts (quite a few) temp and everything was good but my oil light blew up for a quick second... so i stopped, let the car sit for like 5 min and then checked the oil, it was up to par.

However, i have not done such since installing the baffle plate from atkins.

so im assuming the oil just rode up the side of the pan untill it was all on the right opposite of the oil level sensor.

It also helps keep the oil from climbing up the fill tube and making a mess when you're on race tracks with lots of right turns, which is to say every road course in North America. :) I got crap all over my engine bay before I installed mine.