New Turbo set-up Overheating
 

Just recently got my car together and running.

87 coupe with a new streetported turbo motor,car does have a corksport radiator with an electric fan hooked up to a thermostat switch, and the cause of my heating problems a greddy frontmount. I would really like to keep and make the frontmount work. I have an undertray that is in great shape and a super custom home-made shroud above the fmic and oil cooler. I tried running water wetter and water only for maximum cooling but still no luck. Found a pictureless thread that was suggesting adding ducts underneath somewhere but it honestly made no sense.. Car got very warm during both city and highway driving with no bumper.

Was going to install clutch fan and stock shroud but i have a hokey afm set-up that is preventing that at the moment..

A pic of my set-up so you can see which fmic i have and gawk at my sheet metal fabricating and sticker placement skills.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...1/photo-17.jpg

any help with this is appreciated and pictures of any home-made ducting would be best!

you need a bumper to direct the airflow. that's why people put lips on them.

so driving without a bumper makes the car run hotter if you have a fmic ? i never knew that , i thought it would run cooler, guess i was wrong

many people have ran that fmic without issue, what kind of fan you have, do you still have ac?
did you bleed the coolant?

It's a summit brand fan I believe. I wouldn't doubt it not having enough cfms but it was sufficient when I was n/a. Everything a/c related has been removed. Coolant is properly blead. I'm about 100 miles into my break-in process of not exceeding 4k rpms, the temps seem fine if I keep it under 3k. I assumed the bumper would limit airflow or maybe trap heat in there even when it's cut open larger, I will try and get one of my bumpers cut up asap and put on there however I currently don't have a lip for it and funds have been depleted :(

Define "overheating"
Many people panic if temps are not stock, or what is commonly accepted as stock (gauge) levels.

My S4 gauge has passed 1/2, but then dropped shortly after. The temps? Maybe 195 or whatever the haltech tells me. For a while early on I was around 210, and that was me being stupid ignoring the coolant light.

I run a FMIC and no undertray. I do want to fix the undertray thing though.

via corky bells book. everyone has this book... right? people read books for answers... right???


https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7krQHmeTs...%2Bducting.png

it gets its way up to exactly half on the s4 temp gauge. my "panic" feels justified for what i just paid for this motor, its a lot of money for me. Id hate to throw all that money out of the window because i was careless of my temp gauge or didnt take the time to get reassurance from the guys on here like yourself who know what they are talking about.

why are you even trusting the stock temp gauges?

The fan is probably not sufficient, but at least you dont have ac blocking it as well.
If you have the stock fan put it on with no other changes and see if it makes a difference.

Half on the gauge is not a horrible thing! Verify with an aftermarket gauge though, and you will see.

Pick up yourself a nice prosport gauge and see what your readings are. You can get a 60mm premium gauge with peak and warning for 77.50 and the temp sender for another 25. Good quality and easy on the wallet :)

this http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...products_id=19
with
this http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=134

i have the same front mount with a stock s5 fan and shroud and i have no problems at all.

hundreds of people have the same front mount

Well Ive been busy working so I havent got to put i bumper on yet but the temp stays fine all the way to work and back. On the bright side I came across some brand new VDO gauges that I thought I included on the sale of my gsl-se. The sending units dont have a thread size and pitch on the packaging but im hoping i can find a fitting from whatever size they are to the sensor i dont need in the back of my waterpump housing. http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...1/photo-18.jpg

i have the same setup and when it gets hot and humid 28+ i had problems.

Simply we have cut off air flow to the rad with that BIG FMIC.

What i did was water wetter, with 80% water 20% coolant, taped up around the rad all the little gaps to help channel all the air to it, wraped the DP (trying to reduce under hood temps), got a taurus 2 speed fan and best thing I did was a reverse vent scoop.

that will be good for daily drving and beating it, track use........................I will find out next week.

The stock gauge is a curved scale..

at 180 degrees is about 2mm of the peg... at 195 degrees is about halfway up.. at 200 degrees its about 3/4 of the way up....

after i realized that, I got an aftermarket gauge and drilled and tapped it into a second hole n the water neck and stopped worrying about it...

So when alls said and done what is a good operating temperature? 195?

195 is fine!

cruising down the highway from 190 to 200 is my norms.
at idle its anywhere from 157 to 190
after a long run, its about 205.

cork sport rad, stock fan, cork sport shroud with some modification, and stock top mount. stock undertray.

FWIW... I run a generic FMIC, and pieced together my own kit. NO UNDERTRAY (I'm not proud of this :() Stock radiator!!!! Stock clutch fan. My highway is 195, my town driving and idling is actually cooler around 180-185. If I just start the car and let it idle for way too long, it will never go past 180. And this has been tested in 90+ degree days. However, I never pushed it in hot weather due to an old and busted turbo setup. Now I am almost ready to go so we'll see what happens.

i had the oppistie problem check my thread today i fixed it

The stock fan and shroud is very effective! But once you boost more when its hot out that gauge moves pretty quick

So i found the receipt for the fan im currently running, summit part number PRO-67016. Its a 16" thats rated at 2,100 cfms. Im not sure what the average is and if thats typically sufficient enough but im looking into buying a higher cfm fan. Does anyone know if the corksport radiator is considered a single or dual pass radiator? im really unhappy with the construction of this radiator and thinking about buying the koyo double pass, and will be more likely to buy it if the corksport is a single pass. any opinions appreciated.