New TPS old problem remains
 

Ok so some of you might remember my other post about the check engine flickering on at high rpms. I talked to Don Marvel about this and he said it was probably the TPS crapping out which i thought could be a good possibilty because the botom TPS plunger had started sticking on me. Well I bought a brand new one from him through the dealership and installed it and adjusted it to 1ohm at idle. The check engine light still comes on at high rpms and the car still stumbles when the light comes on, so Im back to trying to figure out what the problem is but now im out 300 bucks. Any clues?

What code(s) are indicated when checked?

code(s) have not been checked, probably shoulda done that eh? anyone wana tell me how to do that, i know ive read it on here somewhere and it involves LED's and what not and they flash a certain amount of times for each error, but where to hook it up?

Ok I went and checked the codes and i was flashed an 11, 12, 13, and 18

11 being Intake air thermo sensor (engine)
12 being Throttle Sensor - Full Range
13 being Pressure sensor - Intake manifold
18 being Throttle sensor - Narrow Range

ok dude,
those are the old codes.....prolly
clear em and recheck, mine gave some of the same codes before clearing and rechecking

cleared em and rechecked them and im still getting those exact same codes

I cleared them, re-adjusted the TPS to exactly 1.002 ohms took it out and drove it, came back, checked the codes and was flashed those codes again.

I would repost asking for help with ecu codes. May bring more responses to help you.

dang duder, shucks.
thought that would do it.

mines freakin me out too man,
sorry

I called Don, heh, hes not even sure what it is:)

grrr, thats not giving me a whole lotta confidence.
My TPS should be here in a day or so, i hope mine gets goin.

your car actin funny at all or are you just gettin a light?

Go get the online factory service manual from http://www.fc3s.org and go to the fuel section. In the front part of that manual, there is a chart. This chart shows the input/output from the ECU at idle and with the key to On. Get your meter out and check the appropriate plug on the ECU by putting your meters lead up the backside of the plug while connected.

If you do this, you can look at the narrow and full range of the tps sensor. It gives you the valur of the narrow and full range. Same with the air intake sensor and the pressure sensor.

First make sure those sensors have their plugs on. Pressure sensor on the right fender. Air intake sensor is either the one in the afm or the one on the left side of the dynamic chamber, I forget which.

The manual is also on the http://www.iluvmyrx7.com

Don't be a victim and just change parts out at random. Use the tool called a FSM. and be successful.

Ah god bless you, I was hoping you would come into this thread and give me some advice.

AIR INTAKE SENSOR. Make sure the plug is connected good first, pull it off and back on, clear the codes, check the codes. If there is still a code for it, pull it off and check with a digital meter per the jpg attached.

THE TPS RESISTANCE VALUES. This is a good place to start, but one further step might be to go to the ECU and at the appropriate pins, check the output of the TPS at the ECU with the ECU connected and the key to ON and the engine at idle fully warmed up. Hopefully a JPG attachec.

Isnt that for the sensor on the AFM, the code I was pulling was 11 being Intake air thermo sensor (engine)
10 is the one for the intake air thermo sensor in the AFM. Im probably wrong but im very confused.

Well screw it. I made another mistake....but look at the bottom of that page and it gives you the one for the engine. See? Its located on the left side of the dymanic chamber(on a series four anyway)

Now the jpg for the pressure sensor:

This is the pages I wrote about in the manual that show the values for the sensors when the engine is at idle/key on positions. See where I marked the sensors in red?

This is time consuming. Wait a while, maybe, mabe not more jpg.

Shit i dont have anything to create a vacuum with on the pressure sensor.

Another jpg

You dont have to post any more JPG's im on wireless broadband and have already looked at all the pictures you have posted.

THIS page shows the ECU pins with the connectors connected. So they count from right to left, up/down. Wireless broad band. Darn. I've been scanning, posting, having to log off this site because I get a SITE NOT RESPONDING and then logging back on again. Darn pain in the butt.

You might try erasing the codes again. Take the positive plug off the battery and step on the brakes, turn the light sw on etc. Then reconnect and try the codes again. I can't figure why the codes showed up again when you changed the tps. Odd.

My series four does not hold codes or anything else and does not require this procedure. Never touched a series five. On a series four, the codes seem to not show up unless the plug falls off the connector. Have fun.

On the pressure sensor....no MITTYVAC??? Oh well. Just get a reading at the ECU with the engine running and compare your reading with the one called out on the page that has the values. Like the ones I marked in red for the tps etc. The plug would have had to just about fall off to get a code(I think).

I hope your car is a N/A and not a Turboii because the jps were for a n/a. The turboii are in that manual also though. Bye.

Thanks for trying to help bro I appreciate it.