new suspension
 

just got in my new suspension. tokico illumina's on tanabe gf210's. any suggestions as to what else suspension wise? im upgrading my sway bars to stock T2's, T2 brakes, i just really want a strut bar, but cant afford it. no job :(
just thought ide share.
pics, oh ya! :icon 16:
oh, did i mention t2 drivetrain swap complete with exeddy clutch!
oh, and a pic of my ebay steering wheel.

peace

yo dude you gotta look for my post, i got good info on there, let me find it for ya

EDIT: HEre it is https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/complete-new-suspension-install-am-i-missing-something-638671/

I got all brand new OEM stuff such as the Upper seat and rubber for the fronts, and while your at it do what i did, buy all new rear bushings, spacers, plates etc.

Also get new Strut Mounts and New Dust Boots.

Jason NYC

hey, thanks for the suggestion, any parts numbers, specifically those from the dealers, aftermarket, or whatnot?
like, 28-050
or like tokico bu3633.....ect
that would be of sooooomuch help, you did all the hard work the first time, might as well draft you. :)

peace

where the fuck did you get the Tanabe Sustec GF210's at? ive been wanting/searching for those things for so long. how much did you pay for them and where? thanks. put up some pics of when you get everything installed.
-allen

yo sup, search that post at the bottom i got the pictures and part numbers for OEM mazda stuff =)

Front (2each)

FB01-34-341: Spring Seat
FB01-34-012: Rubber Seat

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...KET6/SUSP3.jpg

Rear (2each)

F044-28-016b: Rear Rubber Bushing
F044-28-015b: Bushing
FB01-28-025: Spacer
FB01-28-020: Plate Set
FB01-28-050: Mounting Plate

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...KET6/susp1.jpg

OEM stuff ^^ that despite you having all the new shocks, springs etc, is the lil things that get overlooked. SInce your gonna put new shit on, might as well put everything new!

Mines from last night =) ALl new hotnes

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...6/PICT9756.jpg

nOW THE only thing left is to confirm the direction that the strut mounts go in lol, but besides that, doesnt it look pretty with all the new stuff, pure sex~ :ky:

yeah I love tanabe's suspension.... damn you tanabe for not making SS's anymore!

i've heard the best bang for the buck on sway bars and strut tower braces is the racing beat set-up that they offer as a full package. bullet proof stuff and i've only heard good things

uh, i dont remember the name of the site right now, but my girl got them for me for christmas :) shes good to me. i know for a fact they are like 150. i only have 1 prob with them, the rear springs dont sit right in the tokicos, the spring isnt as wide as the shock tower support. wtf? i dont know if this is a big deal seeing as how the entire assembly will be under severe pressure, but still, my datsun's suspension isnt like that, but then again, its also a fully custom suspension.........$$$
ya, just look up tanabe gf210 on like google or something.

peace
EDIT: i think im gunna powder coat the oem stuff, to help protect the metal and why the hell not, i have a system and time.

+1 for new strut boots. Im sure yours are old and cracked if original. They're a cheap investment to protect your expensive new struts. The ones I got were KYB units. The bumpstops comes attached to the rubber boot. Zip-ties on. The KYBs can be bought for around $17 a lot of online parts stores and Advance Auto for sure.

Cheapest place I found for the KYB boots is www.rockauto.com

is it the freaking strut bellow?
oh, and to rotaryrocket7, i called mazda for a price quote (there is a dealership next to my house) and they said 297.19 after taxes for EVERYTHING you listed. see, im on a TIGHT budget due to no job, but might get job back with promotion. :) :) :)

peace

nOW THE only thing left is to confirm the direction that the strut mounts go in lol, but besides that, doesnt it look pretty with all the new stuff, pure sex~ :ky:[/QUOTE]

If you look at the strut mount there should be a white mark or dot on the inside of the cupped area. The correct "factory" position is to have that white mark located to the front of the strut mount housing and closest to the motor.
I know that rotating the mark to another location can change your camber like half of a degree or so but I couldn't tell you which way is + and -.