New Guy with a question
 

WHats up everybody. Im new to the forum and havent owned an rx7 before, but I have been around them a good bit, and will own one very soon. I was just wondering out of experiance, id like some input on what you think about my setup im going with...

Rebuilt engine with street port
1600cc and 1000cc injectors
Walbro Fuel Pump
Greddy TD06 20G upgrade kit
Greddy 2 row intercooler
and im still debating on computer/ecu setup, any suggestions? im thinking apexi super afc and avc-r?
and i have a longer list of other smaller stuff, but too much to type out, but does that setup i posted sound ok? im sure it is, just checkin, thanks people

btw... im gonna try and run somewhere in the 12-15psi range, if i can sqeeze a bit more out safely i will do it... what you think?

piggyback's not going to cut it. Go standalone.

good
over kill. maybe 720, 890
ok
ok
ok
After all this why are we buying a $200 of a exscuse to be a EFI manager? Sorry but it just won't do much good here. Get a standalone and have it tuned properly.
good

What are you doing for exhaust?
cooling upgrades?

what would you guys reccomend for stand alone? i figured piggyback wasnt enough, but besides power fc for FD's, im lost on good standalones for fc's... exhaust im going with bonez turboflo system, and an apex gt or greddy power extreme, but can always go with another exhaust system, know of any with a good low tone? and for cooling probably just upgrading to a fluidyne radiator...few other odds and ends... get the basic idea though... and what about 1000cc and 720cc injectors?

why in the hell do you want to use pig ass injectors.

Power FC will do for the FC IIRC.

? well, tell me something i dont know... enlighten me please (not being a smart ass)

Use whatever stand alone your tuner is comfy with. Head on over to the EMS section on search around.
All of the exhausts you listed are ricy buzz toned not deep. Try racing beat.

racing beat, ill look into it, thanks... and my tuner will mainly be me and a freind on a dyno lol, im a bit familiar with the software used with haltech, so i guess im compfy with it, if not i know a guy who can do it. found a e6k with plug and play harness for $1200 bucks that ill probably go for, i HATE wiring, especially when it involves ripping down the whole harness and whatnot...

found a racing beat full exhaust package for $790 so i might just go with that full kit instead of mixing bonez downpipe (3'') with it... plus the racing beat downpipe is 3.15'' so itll help a little more i guess, nice looking exhaust system though, learn something new everyday

i'd say go with the haltech...it's a very popular choice for the fc
I also say go with a full turbo back racing beat exhaust...i have it on my tIi and it sounds sweet...and is definitely one of the best for performance as well.

good to hear, i was kinda hoping i could find something quieter than apex, but that was justm y first choice cause they are easy to find... but yea, more than likely ill be going with the full turbo back system from racing beat

I thought RB had the quietest exhausts around.

a new problem, now need some help on deciding on which turbo to go with, though i guess this is all based on personal preferance... td07-25g or a garret t4 62-1... i decided against a greddy kit cause it just ckicked in my head and i had to kick my ass, greddy kits are expensive when i can get a 62-1 for 699 and a t4 manifold for like 500... why spend 2500 for a kit...

Well in the kit you get a little more: twin air intake, lines, wastegate, and downpipe.

http://www.trust-power.com/02greddy/...r34_t88spl.jpg

RB is the quietest around. But also the most beefy sounding.

Why pay for greddy --- B/c you pay for all the RND and you pay for quality. How would a 500$ turbo with manifold compare to one that costs 1,200???? Betor turbine bettor barings bettor oil bushings and so on on on on.

If you are looking into the 60+trim you can prolly up the secondary injectors to 1000cc or 1300.

Uh, that kit is not for a 13B...


-Ted

well like i said, i can still get the td07-25g turbo, id just be dropping the other included parts, and going with my own choice of parts which would come out cheaper anyway, with just as good or better parts. and i dont see the td07 being superior to 62-1 very much, both really good turbos, though yea, 62-1 only $700 vs. a turbo that costs a little more, but both turbos have good life and can support all the power im gonna throw at it

finally made a choice on turbo... im going with a T4 T70 with .96 A/R , getting BNR to build it soon, decided to go a bit larger than originally planned, should get some good power with 12psi or so, hopefully, if all is right

Paying for quality??? Are you sayin taht Garrett doesnt sell quality turbos? A 62-1 is a fine choice in turbo... Greddy is not above Garrett in any way at all.

HAHA looks like its a kit for a MK4 supra lol

Hmm toss unspoken words around much??

Greddy was just a figure of speach of a known quality company. Next time dont ramble.

Better put a big share of $$ into brakes, suspension, shocks, struts, and tires or you're gonna go too hot into a corner and kiss all that pricey hardware goodbye.

yea, this will be a gradual build... eventually all of that will be looked into, just engine first lol, im gonna be more of a 1/4 mile guy anyway, not much cornering, though i have to every now and then, its an fc lol

my setup is finalized, after talking more to bryan from bnr he assured me he would build me a hyrbid turbo that would get me to 325-350rwhp at about 12psi, full boost by 4000rpm, so pretty good on the lag side. he has run the same turbo on one of his personal cars and ive seen the car run, so im really excited about it woot... gonna change some other stuff though, no longer going haltech, he brought up a good point, i dont need that much tuning... so im going rtek chip with an apex afc... 720 primaries and 1000cc secondaries. rest of the setup is about the same. thanks for all the help on this guys, finally found what i want and need

Do I toss around unspoken words??? hmmmmm... No, as a matter of fact I dont. "A known quality company"? Such as, GARRETT? You said "why pay for Greddy?" (which is a very well known and respected company) then you said because "you are paying for quality"... the way you said that would lead sombody into thinking that you are trying to say that Garrett is not as good because you basically compared them seeing as how he was talking about a Garrett turbo...

You said "how would a $500 turbo adn manifold compare to one that cost 1,200?" well, I dont think that anybody said anything about a $500 turbo and manifold... Hmmmm, you must like tossing around unspoken words huh. A Garrett 62-1 that is about $600-700 vs. a Greddy that is 1200... well, for his application, I would go with the Garrett, and even if he was wanting more power, I would still go with Garrett, but I would probably use somthing more along the lines of a GT42... There I go "rambling" again... damn

FCKing95... I would go on and get some 1600cc injectors if you decide to go on and use a haltech... you were sayin that you wanted more like 400-450hp, if you decide to do that again, I would go wit some 1600cc injectors. They are $100 each on www.rx7store.net and they can fit in your rail with light modification.

well after the talk with bryan, though he may of just been bullshitting me, about 350+ blah blah, though i know there are alot of people on here with over 350 safely... but yea, i would rather have 400+ and would like to go haltech, though rtek chip and an afc would be much easier for me... i might just go with stage 2 hybrid, 1000cc secondaries, 720cc primary, rtek chip and afc... wont get me as much as going t70 .96 a/r with haltech and 1600cc would, but i keep forgetting i am going for daily driver, so stage 2 hybrid might be best for me now, might up the boost a bit to 18+psi. once this engine goes... might upgrade later

"Do I toss around unspoken words??? hmmmmm... No, as a matter of fact I dont. "A known quality company"? Such as, GARRETT? You said "why pay for Greddy?" (which is a very well known and respected company) then you said because "you are paying for quality"... the way you said that would lead sombody into thinking that you are trying to say that Garrett is not as good because you basically compared them seeing as how he was talking about a Garrett turbo..."



I really think he was not aware of the types of Garrett turbos in which were in disscussion... Or he did not know they were Garrett. Not saying this as fact of course, just saying that from the progression of the conversation, You made a valid sugestion, He shot it down because he thought is was a turbo that did not hold up to Greddy, You called him on it, then he realized he sounded a fool in what he said. Now he was just covering his tracks cause he made a mistake, or is just not as savy on them as a lot of people on the site. No big deal.

If you have a link to a new garret turbo with manifold in a 70trim for 500$ let me know!
That sounds alot more like a XS price to me.

Air exspress greedy and so forth charge a good 1k for there 70+trim setups. Wait actualy You can find a need rebuild 78trim greddys for 3k hmm :-/ For this large of a trim a good SS manifold will run you 600+ Yea you can use cast but why?

FCKing1995 - If this is your first time moding your car or a car like this I am going to sugest using it as a learning curve. it is not wise to just put 400+hp into a car you are not familure with. I sugest just getting a BNRIII at best and tune for that acording to how Bryan at BNR says.

Dude... WTF, like I said... YOUR THE ONLY ONE TALKING ABOUT $500 TURBOS AND MANIFOLDS HERE!!! Nobody EXCEPT YOU said anything about a turbo or a manifold or a turbo and manifold costing $500...


hmmm... toss around UNSPOKEN words much???

:rlaugh: :rlaugh: :rlaugh:

Now the above quote on the other hand, that is wisely spoken. Bryan is definatly wounderful at what he does. In my opinion, he is one of the best when it come to what he does.

It is not that I was tossing around words. It is that I missed a word. I thought I read a 60.1 with a T4 manifold for 500 and that is the exact price of the XS. Insted he said 699 + 500. Though I still finde 699 cheep for a 60trim. At 60trim I say BNR-IV or Turbonetics T04B.

I still stand by my last post of exsperiance.

going to 18psi would probably be out of the efficiency range for that turbo...

and yeah, if this is suppose to be a DD, then dont go for that much power ect ect, jsut stick with the rtec S-AFC ect ect, then one day when you get a FD go with a Power FC and shoot for over 400 then. Why is this goin to be your DD... what about the lude and that old accord?

yea it hit me last night, i got carried away in the talking, mostly your damn fault lol, showing me all the t70's and shit... i remembered i was going for good hp but retaining daily drivability... so yea, bnr stage2-3 will be what i go with, and yea, true im unfamiliar with rotaries... maybe down the road i will aim for a higher number on my next engine i build... but for now 325-350rwhp is plenty off the bnr setup... and why would 18psi be out of efficiancy? im pretty sure bryans gold t2 he said was running like 16... maybe im mistaken, but ill probably stick with 15psi anyway... bah

18psi on pump gas can be disasterus.

so 15 safe, 18 disaster?

If you're on a budget, I think the correct question is why not ? The HKS cast manifold is inexpensive (~$350), built like a tank, and people have made over 500 rwhp with it. You may sacrifice a few horsepower and spool 300 rpm later, but for a daily driver I think this is an acceptable tradeoff. Even $1000 SS manifolds can crack eventually, especially with the heat of a rotary. For a daily driver, I think it makes sense to use a cast. It may not be the best design, but you can certainly make great power and it is way more durable. If you have a race car, or a show car, or if you just have a lot of money then certainly go for a custom SS manifold, but the HKS is a great alternative for those on a budget IMO.

That is kinda true... it completely depends on your supporting mods... you have to be pretty safe with your tuning. Monitor your egt's and a/f ratio pretty damn close and get the timing in a safe spot. But if your not gettin a standalone there isnt much you can do with the timing lol. So 18 psi on a chipped ECU can be pretty disastrous lol

SO AGAIN I ASK.... is 15psi safe?, and 18 psi not?

Between 12 and 15. Only way to tell is with your EGT numbers and AF numbers and something to tell you when you are hiting detonation. Plus 15psi creates alot of heat.

so best to start at like 12psi and go up till i see problmes with either detonation, or my egt's ? then stop there and go back 1psi or more? about right?

The best bet is use stock boost or applicable boost of your turbo to stock output of say 6 to 10psi. Until you put it on a dyno and tune your car I would not even drive it with a 60+ trim and 1300cc injectors and stand alone EMS. The reason I said 12psi is b/c that is generally a close psi before your motor pops.

I mean god honest truth keep your stock stuff on and mod it a lil like exhaust and FMIC and fuel and EMS until you learn about it and learn how to drive it. Then go from there. A unfamiliar car that you romp on will end you up in a tree.

safc sucks ass... you can only subtract fuel, unless its in the lower rpm point or low load... So you would need to get bigger injectors than what you actually need.. After spending all this money, you want to go cheap on one of the most important mod??

I run 15 psi all day on pump gas, and this is on a t70... No detonation, just a lil on the rich side... I stll get great driveability...

62-1 is also a good turbo... but for your power goals and driveability, I suggest you get the gt35r. It has great spool, actually awesome spool, and great efficiency.. 78% IIRC

I still got one question though, why all this planning and discussing, if you dont even have the car yet?? I would first get the car, atleast learn how it works and performs before doing anything to it...

apparently none of you have seen my most recent choice, being bnr stage 2 with 1000/720 secondary and 720 primary, and rtek chip with either safc or hks fuel controler... then the other mods like full turboback exhaust, greddy fmic, this will all be on a new streetported engine, some other goodies... im no longer using the t70 or 62-1...

and for you point of me not having the car yet... i know a fair amount about them, other than being around them and seeing them, ive never done any work on one... but know a lot about technical shit... noob or whatever im called... but im surounded by a lot of people who know a great deal about rotaries and can help me with tuning and im pretty well mechanicly inclined, so i can do 95% of the work myself... only problems im having is getting straight answers on safe levels for boost... like i said before, would it be ok just to play it by ear and up the boost till i encounter problems then back it off a few psi? if this was going on a piston engine id be ok, but seeign as rotaries are pretty new aea with me, im not so sure on performance aspects of what they can and cannot take... and im pretty sure that there are a few people on here using bnr's with a similar setup as i will have and they are running in the 12-15psi range... and ive been told by bryan of bnr that id be fine with my setup and planned 12psi+ a few on his turbo, as long as i watch what i do and keep an eye on the egt

It depends on what motor you use, and what parts you use in it... Usually if you buy a turbo car, its most likely been abused or modded out.. If you want reliability, then you need to use proven parts and have the motor built right... doesnt matter what turbo you get, if your motor cant take the heat...

itll be a rx7store.net stage 2 streetport, so itll be a brand new with s4 internals... ussual 2mm apex seals... guess itll be pretty much a reman+ streetport... but after thinking about it more, i might just stick with 10-12psi range for now, till i do a little more work in it, and do some dyno tuning, then ill be brave and move on up a little

may have found me an t2, its in houston, and im in birmingham al, so it might be a little drive for me, but id drive that far for a fairly godd shape t2 for $1000... if it all checks out and sounds good tomarrow ill be going to get it this week hopefully

You can't tune a rotary the same way you tune a piston engine. Detonate once and that could be the end of your motor. Definitely get a wideband, watch your EGT, and be conservative with your timing and you should be ok. But definitely don't lean until detonation to find the limits...

lol, yeah right.

The Apexi GT spec exhaust makes the RB turbo-back exhuast sound 'ricy buzz' in comparison... Seriously.

I've heard both cars running at the same time. GT spec > RB

RB looks better but Apexi is more unique (drivers side exit). Apexi flows better and has a much deeper tone throughout the powerband. RB and the GT series exhaust are actually similar in loudness. Don't confuse the GT spec with the N1's. Completely different exhausts.

Yes... I was offended. (lol)

No offense, but there is no way you can say that the RB has a "ricy buzz" sound. Have you ever heard one?

When are people going to realize that exhaust tone is 100% opinion? Some people like the sound of one exhaust, some like the other.

I'm sorry, but there is no way that a single 65/75/85mm pipe will outflow an 80mm pipe that splits to two 60 mm pipes. Not gonna happen. Maybe if it was 80mm all the way back.

I can't comment on this because I've never heard the GT on a 7, but I seriously doubt that a single muffler will be as quiet as two huge RB mufflers. I have heard an Apex'i GT on other cars, they're just as loud as any other single exhaust.

That being said, I'm running a single exhaust on my car. :D I just wanted to point out that there is no way a single exhaust will be as quiet as the RB (unless you put at least one more muffler in as a presilencer).