RX7Club.com - Mazda RX7 Forum

RX7Club.com - Mazda RX7 Forum (https://www.rx7club.com/)
-   2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) (https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/)
-   -   need opinions on TPS pigtails (https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/need-opinions-tps-pigtails-1112387/)

RotaryEvolution 03-25-17 12:16 AM

need opinions on TPS pigtails
 
i think i'm finally on the last legs of getting an alternate TPS done for the FC to replace the craptastic, overpriced and unreliable OEM units but i would like to find out from what people would be more interested in:

1)using your existing T terminal connection(finding a new female receptable shouldn't be hard, but your existing harness side would still be 30 years old)

or

2)replacing the whole thing with a delphi weatherpak connector with supplied heat shrink butt connectors(individuals would have to cut, crimp and heat the wires)



stupid thing has been a headache, because it's not so easy to make a full range sensor work for a 30% trim full range of motion shaft. needs to stay with a sliding potentiometer style setup, ie a mimic of the stock sensor.

misterstyx69 03-25-17 12:27 AM

I made a patch connector for S4 to FD TPS.
I used an old crappy Tps and cut the connector,got a FD TPS Pigtail and soldered them together.

With that being said,I think that would be easy for the average Joe to go with,rather than giving them the parts and having them make the connector patch.
If the patch connector is TPS Specific then it would be easier to "mass Produce them".

RotaryEvolution 03-25-17 12:30 AM

not really a patch harness involved though, i mean the choice would be plugging into the tps with your existing 30 year old connector without having to touch a thing wiring wise, or cut 3 wires and crimp on a new connector complete omitting the junky old white plastic TPS connector on your engine harness side.

whenever i make something i try to keep it totally plug and play like a stock unit, but the factory connector on the engine harness side draws a lot of question to whether it should be kept or replaced too.

the latter would be better, but following basic instructions sometimes isn't easy for some people. lol


the S5 will be a little trickier to manage though, iirc i had found that connector but the price is going to hurt a little more due to the 2 sensors and twice the time/cost to manufacture.

eage8 03-25-17 08:27 AM

I would either make them both ways, or make them weatherpack only and also offer a small adapter harness to stock pigtail...

DaBrkddy 03-25-17 09:47 AM

Make it with stripped and tinned wires and both connectors separate and uninstalled so the end user can choose what they want. Make a simple instruction sheet that shows where the wires go on each respective connector, and make a disclaimer. If somebody isn't capable of connecting three or six wires correctly they shouldn't be working on sensitive engine control components.

Edit:
And by the way, THANK YOU!!! This needed to be done years ago!!!

clokker 03-25-17 10:13 AM


Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution (Post 12166617)

1)using your existing T terminal connection(finding a new female receptable shouldn't be hard, but your existing harness side would still be 30 years old)

or

2)replacing the whole thing with a delphi weatherpak connector with supplied heat shrink butt connectors(individuals would have to cut, crimp and heat the wires)

Isn't the harness side 30 years old in both cases?

RotaryEvolution 03-25-17 10:45 AM


Originally Posted by clokker (Post 12166677)
Isn't the harness side 30 years old in both cases?

the wiring yes, but the fragile and rather exposed connector doesn't help matters in the least. corrosion causes resistance, resistance causes erratic behavior.

clokker 03-25-17 11:27 AM

I personally would care either way, my connectors are good but I like weatherpacks too.
Any details to share on this conversion?

RotaryEvolution 03-25-17 11:36 AM

nothing much additional, just working on what would be the best way to go about it. the sensors are industrial quality so hopefully they last a good bit longer than the stock sensors. i know i've had a number of the stock ones fail over the years and $300 for a new OEM seems a little steep considering how little it realistically does, until it fails and then all hell breaks loose.

lduley 03-25-17 12:09 PM


Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
nothing much additional, just working on what would be the best way to go about it. the sensors are industrial quality so hopefully they last a good bit longer than the stock sensors. i know i've had a number of the stock ones fail over the years and $300 for a new OEM seems a little steep considering how little it realistically does, until it fails and then all hell breaks loose.

I would make them however is more easier and cost effective for you so you'd have more room for profit, and group buys

I agree with above, if you can't cut/strip/solder wires together, you shouldn't even be changing your own oil

KompressorLOgic 03-26-17 10:40 AM

to maximize sales I would probably offer both options.

on the diy would the wires be long enough to reach on an NA harness used in a turbo swap?

RotaryEvolution 03-26-17 10:51 AM

yes they would reach either side of the harness.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:08 PM.


© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands